I was programming the ESC on my mt4g3 today and the motor turned on and shot the car across the room. Scared the hell out of me...

It's the stock ESC that comes with the car. I followed all of the directions. What the hell happened??

I've got a program card coming but would still like to know what I did wrong.

The program card won't affect what happened to you. What it sounds like to me, is the throttle wasn't set OR didn't take. Just try recalibrating the radio to the esc and take the wheels off, or keep the tires off the ground and not leaning against your leg or anything (it burns!)

Thanks jrowles!

Lesson definitely learned, car went up on blocks next time I turned it on. And I'm glad I did, as soon as the battery acknowledged the 4s battery it just opened up full throttle until I shut it off. Next time before I turned it I turned the throttle control on the transmitter all the way down, the wheels didn't turn but as soon as you touched the trigger it was like full throttle. So I recalibrated the throttle position again as you said and it seems ok now but I'm scared to death (lol)to try programming the esc again. And I really want to turn the brake down to 50%.

What's the difference between how you set the esc to program the throttle position and how you do it to change the settings? Reading the directions there doesn't appear to be a difference and I think that was my problem. Directions for throttle range setting say to switch off the esc, turn on the transmitter, set the direction of throttle channel to "rev" (which seems odd to me) and set the atv to 100% and disable the abs function of transmitter (how the hell do you do that). Next hold set button and turn on, release the set key as soon as possible. Then go through the motions. There's a note that says if you hold it too long it will enter "program" mode. How do you tell the difference between throttle calibration and programming mode?

For the "programming" instructions it says to turn off esc, turn on transmitter, hold set key and turn on esc. Red led flashes. Then it says to hold set key for 3 seconds to cycle to each of the settings.

What's the difference, what am I missing/doing wrong??? HELP, don't want to mess anything up!

Sorry so long...that was a bitch to type on an iPhone! Lol

Hopefully I got everything

Thanks for the quick response!!

This thing is just so freakin powerful! I can't even imagine 5s or 6s for that matter!

Good call on waiting for program card. Hopefully it will be here in a few days.

Gonna go wash my underwear from earlier now! Lol

hahaha

It should run good without any fine tuning on the program card. Have you been able to play with it?

Yeah, just once though. It started raining the day after I got it all put back together from changing the diff oil. It's pretty insane. Can't wait to get it to a park.

The only thing I wanted to mess with was the brake force. Wanted to turn it to 50% to see if I could stop the nose diving. Maybe turn down the punch too. Lol at least until I get use to it.

On a side note since I have you here...

It's set up default for forward/reverse with brake. Could you explain in "noob" terms what all that treble crap is they talk about in the directions?

Adjusting the settings like "Punch", you don't want to be all the way up OR down. For some reason the ESC's don't like it.

You'll want to leave the Forward/reverse with brake alone. The other option is Forward/Reverse only (which will break everything in your drivetrain due to the sudden change of direction) and another is forward and brake no reverse (that is for racing only)

All it's saying is, as it's set up from factory is you have forward then brake then you have to pump the brake again for reverse.

With that being said, it sounds like its a good idea to make sure the car is stopped before going in to reverse. Makes sense since I wouldn't do it in my real car.

Exactly!