Making my e maxx brushless ready
12-16-2013, 09:26 PM
#1
Making my e maxx brushless ready
Just a quick question. I am trading for an older e maxx. What's needed to make it brushless ready? Part numbers and/or links of what's needed would be appreciated. Thanks to anyone who can help. Here's a pic of the e maxx that I'm getting. The guy that I'm trading with is keeping the brushless system that's in it.
12-17-2013, 01:46 AM
#2
That would depend on what kind of system you want to put in it but I'd start with switching out those driveshafts and try to find some metal gears for the trans. If you plan on using the MMM 2200/2650kv or the like you should also look into those diffs. A system like the one pictured in there should be plenty to make the truck fun and reliable but would be nothing like the newer chassis rtr brushless trucks in terms of power.
12-17-2013, 10:42 PM
#3
http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM17750&cat=23
no questions about it. If you are going to run any kind of serious power, you will need that for front and rear. Unlimited engineering still sells some nice parts too.
www.unlimitedengineering.com You would want either the 6 spyder or 8 spyder differentials with the 7.5 diff housing.
no questions about it. If you are going to run any kind of serious power, you will need that for front and rear. Unlimited engineering still sells some nice parts too.
www.unlimitedengineering.com You would want either the 6 spyder or 8 spyder differentials with the 7.5 diff housing.
12-18-2013, 09:14 PM
#4
http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM17750&cat=23
no questions about it. If you are going to run any kind of serious power, you will need that for front and rear. Unlimited engineering still sells some nice parts too.
www.unlimitedengineering.com You would want either the 6 spyder or 8 spyder differentials with the 7.5 diff housing.
no questions about it. If you are going to run any kind of serious power, you will need that for front and rear. Unlimited engineering still sells some nice parts too.
www.unlimitedengineering.com You would want either the 6 spyder or 8 spyder differentials with the 7.5 diff housing.
12-24-2013, 07:54 AM
#5
Things you'll need to do to run serious BL. Looks like it has wide 2.5 arms and I assume axle carriers.
The Integy bulkheads are ok for now, to add stiffness to difs. But for serious bashing wrecks they will bend.
You will need 3908 BL difs, with the possibility of upgrading 3908 dif cups to metal. At least on the rear for sure.
All 6 steel 2.5 wide cvd's (small inner bearing carriers), the small plastic shafts will fail every run OR upgrade the axle carriers to 3908/ T-Maxx 3.3 and run the larger stock axles (blue booted) and larger inner bearing carriers. The two different types of driveshafts won't interchange. With the 3.3 3908 carriers and blue booted shafts, the wheels will be outwards farther than the 2.5 setup. Adds more width over the 2.5 wide suspension.But the A arms are the same length, the carriers are wider (thicker).
Purchase the 3905 steel idlers, X2, grind them flat on both sides and replace the stock nylon 3906 idlers.
Plan on upgrading steering servo later for the larger BL 3.8 wheels/ tires.
Upgrade 14 mm nylon hexes to metal or to larger 17 mm style. Nylon hexes will round off and strip wheel hex.
These are things I have had to do to my 3906 to get it solid enough to run BL. Oh and plan on getting a wheelie bar, you'll need it. I still run the Traxxas one with rubber wheels, they make a big difference in stability when wheelieing which you WILL be doing alot of. Plastic wheels will slide sideways.
The Integy bulkheads are ok for now, to add stiffness to difs. But for serious bashing wrecks they will bend.
You will need 3908 BL difs, with the possibility of upgrading 3908 dif cups to metal. At least on the rear for sure.
All 6 steel 2.5 wide cvd's (small inner bearing carriers), the small plastic shafts will fail every run OR upgrade the axle carriers to 3908/ T-Maxx 3.3 and run the larger stock axles (blue booted) and larger inner bearing carriers. The two different types of driveshafts won't interchange. With the 3.3 3908 carriers and blue booted shafts, the wheels will be outwards farther than the 2.5 setup. Adds more width over the 2.5 wide suspension.But the A arms are the same length, the carriers are wider (thicker).
Purchase the 3905 steel idlers, X2, grind them flat on both sides and replace the stock nylon 3906 idlers.
Plan on upgrading steering servo later for the larger BL 3.8 wheels/ tires.
Upgrade 14 mm nylon hexes to metal or to larger 17 mm style. Nylon hexes will round off and strip wheel hex.
These are things I have had to do to my 3906 to get it solid enough to run BL. Oh and plan on getting a wheelie bar, you'll need it. I still run the Traxxas one with rubber wheels, they make a big difference in stability when wheelieing which you WILL be doing alot of. Plastic wheels will slide sideways.
Last edited by spookie; 12-24-2013 at 08:31 AM.
12-24-2013, 08:45 AM
#6
I think the larger thing to point out is the wimpy 1/10th scale motor and ESC running on 2S lipo. That will blow up in your face. You need a 1/8th scale ESC and motor on at least 3S. You are asking for problems with that setup.
To answer your question though.....for a 3906 to be brushless ready, you need:
Steel idler gear
steel center CVDs
and the newer emaxx diffs, a-arms, axles, axle carries, and turnbuckles.
You also need to lock the transmission into second gear.
It is a LOT of money to get a 3906 up to snuff. I should know, I have one.
To answer your question though.....for a 3906 to be brushless ready, you need:
Steel idler gear
steel center CVDs
and the newer emaxx diffs, a-arms, axles, axle carries, and turnbuckles.
You also need to lock the transmission into second gear.
It is a LOT of money to get a 3906 up to snuff. I should know, I have one.
12-24-2013, 08:49 AM
#7
Not to mention the stock clutch won't take any serious Bl power. Even the Robinson I have on mine struggles to control it all.
12-25-2013, 05:06 PM
#9
Oh I keep mine tight lol. The Turnigy 2560 1st gen is a 6 pole motor, monstrously brutal torque. Eventually the RR inner disc hex hole rounded out and slid over the trans input shaft. I called RR and they sent the tiny little ring spacers that goes between the inner disc and trans bearing (4910 T-Maxx clutch item). He said the reason they don't send them for E-Maxx's is because it pushes the clutch assembly outwards slightly and the 3906 clutch housing won't fit. I told him I don't run a cover, to help cool it. I had several spacers in hand in a few days, thanks RR, installed a RRT-Maxx spare disc I had and it's been rock steady on adjustment since.
12-31-2013, 04:26 PM
#10
I have my 3908 slipper cranked down.... If it were to move at all I think my setup would melt it.
12-31-2013, 07:37 PM
#11
Thanks for the info guys...unfortunately the guy that I was supposed to trade with must have lost interest because he never got back to me to let me know when he wanted to ship. But, with all the things I would have had to do to make his e maxx brushless ready...it sounds like I dodged a bullet anyway. So, no harm no foul....again thanks for the info.
01-03-2014, 04:00 PM
#12
Tech Initiate
I am bringing my maxx back to life.
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