some problems with savage
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 104
will this thing is hard to get going i have to use the radio to get it going when its cold as soon as its warmed up no problems 2and problem rear shocks on
left side they are sticking and you have to pull them apart .
left side they are sticking and you have to pull them apart .
#2
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10
From: Martinsville,IN.
I have the same thing i have to use the radio to open up the throttle a little bit my two O.S.engines do thing i just prime them a little and they start right up.The shocks need to be taking apart and rebuilt o rings are bad or the shaft has nicks on them plus there is dirt inside of the shocks
#3
If its really tough to start you can use a hair drier or heat gun to warm the engine before starting,Alot of guys also do this to prevent wear on the piston and sleeve,And if the shocks have to be pulled apart there`s a good chance that you have a bent shock shaft
#5
But the shafts can be straightened if they arent bent to bad,Ive done this before weakens them slightly but better than not running at all
Just try to not put alot of plier marks on them
use cardboard or something to protect the shaft while straightening.
Just try to not put alot of plier marks on them
use cardboard or something to protect the shaft while straightening.
#7
which model is this? i had a 25 rtr that i thought was just a cold blooded b***h,that was until i sent it to hpi and they found the back plate had come loose.same problem once started every other problem went away just could not get up and going.also how cold is it where you are located?and the hair dryer trick works pops right over and fires
steven
steven
#9
are you talking about day to day?or week to week?if you were to run it and then let it cool down is it still a pain to start?if you have to prime it just to get it to start there could be an air leak somewhere. check the tank first then the fuel lines then the carb and block.its okay to prime to get fuel to the carb but if you have to do it just to start like i said there could be an airleak.btw-what fuel and percentage are you running and what glow plug and heat are you using?
#10
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 104
for every start i prime then start and put the roto start on and enigter then i have to use the radio all the time to open up the thertto to get her started up mostly during the day when hot and its every run no matter when buts fine when engines hot I am using the factory glow plug that came .25 rtr savage 20% nitro 16 oil back yard basher or 20% blue thunder fuel
( and notice since i ve gone to the blue tunder it even harder to get going )
when this gallon is done I am going back to back yard basher and ignitor is
kwik-start
( and notice since i ve gone to the blue tunder it even harder to get going )
when this gallon is done I am going back to back yard basher and ignitor is
kwik-start
Last edited by classic xl; 07-14-2005 at 09:02 PM.
#11
hmm....i went from traxxas to blue thunder and mine started running cooler and better held a tune.how many tanks are on it?if youve gone through more than a gallon on one plug including break in i would start there.every week when i get to the track i put in a new plug its not worth the trouble they cause if bad because they can really foul up your tune.if you still have to give it throttle when hot then youve got an air leak somewhere i would put money on it.my savage was a pain but it was week to week or race to race and not heat to heat if would pop over and purr from heat to heat.again check the tank then lines(buy new ones there cheap)then carb and lastly the block.
#12
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 104
about tank 12-15 if I had a bud plug would I not notice permance problems if so its fine it runs sweet there are some small bobals in the fuel line but once its warmed up she runs nice and me motor with blue thunder was starting to over heat and its the first time ive had this problem since went to this fuel
( what should I look for at the tank and fuel lines)
and i did buy new fuel lines that are wider but may be its the plug its the first
one and is old
( what should I look for at the tank and fuel lines)
and i did buy new fuel lines that are wider but may be its the plug its the first
one and is old
Last edited by classic xl; 07-14-2005 at 09:26 PM.
#13
the fuel lines being wider on the o.d. is fine but if the i.d. is wider then that will be a problem.and on the glow plug you will not notice a performance problem and the plug could still be bad.you check the tank be removing it and filling it with water(i would not suggest nitro in case the pressure comes back through the line and squirts in your mouth...lol)you plug the pressure line and blow through the main pick up not hard but constant pressure if you see water leaking thats your problem.at 12-15 tanks you still breaking the motor in and if you have switched fuels already that could cause it,was the back yard basher fuel castor based if so the blue thunder is not and that will cause aproblem with overheating the temp will go up slightly because your going from 16% oil to i think 12% and its synthetic not castor.when you switch fuel you should idle a couple tanks through to let the motor get used to the new fuel if it idles through 2 tanks then your golden you can start tuning for power.now if the other was castor based fuel then you need to tear the motor down and remove all the left over castor reassemble then idle a couple tanks of the blue thunder then tune for power.the bubbles in the line indicate air but that could be from priming until the fuel gets to the carb.my motors have run great on a bad plug just really finicky to get going and hold its tune,now remember im racing not bashing so i tune differently i go for about 95% power to make the motor last as long as possible.
steven
steven
#14
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 104
i ve gone through 1 full and one half full gallon of fuel so i could be off as to how many tanks ive gone through (could i full up a sink of water then put the tank in will that work if there is a leak do i need a new tank and should i get hpis plugs or some one elses I am going to hobby hobby tomorrow to get some new plugs before work
( fuel lines are light blue colour and where a whole roll the guy gave a piece to me
from the roll so i can't give you a brand name
( fuel lines are light blue colour and where a whole roll the guy gave a piece to me
from the roll so i can't give you a brand name
#15
yeah you can put the tank in a sink of water just run the main line out and be sure to plug the vent line.any line made for nitro will work as long as there is some resistance when you tug on it if you pull lightly on it it should not slide off with ease.as far as plugs go i use mcoy mc59 those should be fine for the climate your in.1 and a half gallons is well broke in just be sure the first fuel you were using is not castor based because i know the blue thunder is synthetic and unless you removed the castor from the engine it will run hot,also remember whenever you switch fuel,plug you will have to retune it also when all else fails go back to the factory needle settings and start over if the engine ever gets to hot let completely cool down on its own before you retune.fuel line color i chose light colored ones so i can see the fuel running through them hope this helps.
steven
steven



