OK so my emaxx has the following upgrades;

FLM Chasis
FLM Shock Towers
Losi LST2 Axle mod
Big Joes on Axial 8 spoke wheels
RPM A Arms
UE Supermaxx Shocks
Savox Monster Torque Servo
Heavy duty Traxxas Toe Links
Tekno Axle Carriers

For the longest time I was blowing axles till I did the Losi CVD mod. Everything was great after, no problems what so ever. Was using FLM Bulkheads with stock diffs at that point. Then I changed over to the FLM chasis and FLM Hybrid Bulkheads with 1/8 diffs, since then, my Maxx has been sitting around doing nothing because it has blown 3 of the 1/8 diffs supplied with the FLM hybrid bulks.

I want to put some 1/8 diffs in there and be done with it. I'm sick of always having something broken on the damn thing.

Problem is, I don't know what diffs are a straight drop in for the hybrid bulkheads. I had read the HB Lightning series were a good option. Now I find they don't do the straight cut bevel gears anymore and that the spiral cut don't fit.

The supplied diffs I believe are caster racing, and they have proven to be nothing but a problem.




So I need a solution. I need to find something that is as simple a drop in as possible. I have heard of people using Hyper 7 diffs, as well as a few others. But I am hoping some one out there has done some sort of work out there to bullet proof their diffs with minimal fuss and can supply me with some part numbers and advice. I really want to get this thing going again because right now it's just frustrating me to tears.

Reading your signature you have some nice cars, kinda makes me go with the e-maxx....

My solution would be to grenade the whole thing whist firing multiple rounds into it .. Maybe sell it and get another race vehicle?

The Kyosho inferno 7.5 diffs fit as well as the Jammin diffs.

Seriously, man? Guy comes here looking for help and that's what you want to post? Way to make everybody here on RCTech look bad.

On to Suteki's actual problem:

What motor are you running in that E-Maxx to grenade the Caster 1/8 diffs? I run a 4084-Canned 2-Pole in mine on 5S, and I can't put a dent in these things. 6 months now of serious use running Trencher-X's, including doing not-good things like righting the car off it's lid by slamming Reverse>Forward.

Did you shim the diffs when you assembled them? Are you blowing the spider gears or the Ring & Pinion?

Hyper 7/8/8.5 (Ofna K-Type) diffs fit fine. Bunch of posts on the TRX forums about it. Also means HB Lightning diffs should fit, though I think FLM talks about the HB diffs fitting already.

LST2 diffs also fit inside the FLM Hybrid Bulkheads. There's another option for you. Those actually may be the toughest freakin' diff around anyways.

I'm just wondering what part on which end of the truck you're blowing up. Did you put a 1/5 scale motor in there?

I run UE ultralite cases in mine with the UE 6 spider diffs (Same thing as the Ofna Hyper 7 diff) That has proven to be a very good setup for me. I have had one diff fail, but I'm almost positive that was due to improper shimming. They also offer the 8 spider diff which should be bomb proof, I just haven't needed anything more that the 6 spider diff running on 5s with some very harsh bashing. I have installed the FLM hybrids with the supplied caster diffs on three trucks now, not once was I impressed with the diff or the FLM part for that matter. The first set was mine and then the other 2 were for a friend.

Don't listen to got nitro. Many people like to hate on the emaxx, but it is a great truck. Sure you have to upgrade it to hold up to 5 and 6s, but half the fun is building up your truck. Check out UE's new chassis for the emaxx. It is being tested right now and running in the truggy class

Yeah, that's what I wanted to post! If I didn't I wouldn't have! Just post what you think you have to about the fix ok tuffy nutz?....

I'm not "hating" on a emaxx, I'm "hating" on everything in general that wont cooperate and it just happens to be that traxxas makes the least amount of cooperative parts. So, essentially to offer the least amount of self inflicted brain damage, I suggested to grenade it. Mmm Kay?

Grenading uncooperative things ^^

Listen up there APR 2013, no one needs your trolling uncooperative posts either....

Oh yes... I must have limited knowledge due to my latest usernames recent appearance.

Me and the OP have already traded words on his subject. I was merely voicing the general distaste I felt after reading your post.

Look for "hardened" or "heavy duty" gears from any of the makers the previous posters mention. I used HB lightning a few years ago and haven't touched them since. I also upgraded to cnc'd diff cups. Plastic cups were flexing under load and eating gears. Spiral cut ring/pinion works well too. You're pushing a 15+ lb aluminum hunk of a truck around, shit happs until it's fully bombproof. I've got a similar setup I haven't had to fix in a long time.

Suggesting to grenade something because its not a simple fix isn't exactly helping the OP in his problem. He wants a solution to the problem, not an easy way out, MMM Kay?

I agree with melonpeel, an aluminum cup will also help. The Ofna spider 6 (hyper 7) come with a plastic cup, but the spider 8 came with and aluminum cup ( I believe this diff was offered in the hyper 9??)

Like I said, I run the Ofna 6 spider in mine with the plastic cup and they are great. I think as long as you get away from the caster racing diff and go with any other Losi or Ofna diff you will be fine. Also make sure that it is shimmed perfect. The life of the diff depends on how well it is shimmed.

He said he's had enough with e-maxx diff's in the title! I gave him other options, It's a simple fix Light it up or sell it for another race vehicle He asked and I provided a few low brain damage easy solution's.

My diffs came with steel cups. I really should take them out and inspect them. When I first got them I was so excited to get the truck running that I just tossed them in. Ill pop the rear apart when I get home Friday and let you know what I find.