Important Collari .30 Information
04-17-2005, 09:02 AM
#1
Important Collari .30 Information
First of all I want to say that the Collari .30 engine has been under development for quite a while. We have tested the engine extensively, including doing reliability and performance testing on it. We are confident that this is one, if not the best performing large block engine available for the monster truck at this time.
I have seen a variety of posts both positive and negative regarding peoples experience with the engine. Having been in the business for a while I will be honest and say that this is to be expected. I have found that there is needless to say a wide range of experience levels represented amongst people in what I will call more consumer oriented categories like the MT class. Having said that let me be clear and say that I'm by no means blaming any problems that people may be having on inexperience etc.
Yesterday we randomly pulled several production engines from stock, broke them in and ran them in an attempt to replicate some of the issues that I have observed people mentioning on this thread. From this session yesterday I can clearly say the following:
1) We have found no issues in regards to air leaks and there should be no need what so ever to seal your engines with RTV. I know that some people simply prefer to do this, and there is nothing wrong with doing it if you would like.
If you have an engine and feel that you have an air leak give us a call and we will take care of it under warranty as we do with all manufacturing defect related issues.
2) Drilling out your plastic fuel nipple. This is something that one of our people told to a single customer over the phone as a way to increase fuel delivery if he would like. It has since become one of those internet rumors that seems to take on a life of it's own and now supposedly needs to be done to each engine in order for it to work. Let me clearly state this is NOT a necessity, it is something that you can do to increase the fuel flow. You do not need to do this in order to run the engine. You can do it if you would like and it can increase slightly the performance, it is NOT however necessary.
3) Tuning problems. We have found 2 things:
a) In the first shipment of engines a small number of the carbs came with a slightly longer High Speed needle. This needle is black in color and is about 2mm longer than the correct needle which is silver. The black needle has exactly the same taper as the silver one so it will flow fuel identically. Again the difference is ONLY that it is 2 mm longer. As the needles seat completely from a tuning stand point when screwed to 8 turns out on the silver needle it is exactly the same as 8 turns out on the black needle and is flowing exactly the same amount of fuel so there is absolutely no difference from a performance stand point. What it does mean is that with the black needle when turned out 8 turns the top of the needle will stick up an additional 2 mm. This gives the deceptive appearance that the needle is sticking out too much and some will think that it looks like it might fall out, it will not but it is an appearance thing that we intend to take care of.
We have replacement silver needles in-route to us at this time from the manufacturer and will be able to send these out later next week. So if you have received a carb with the black needle please send us an e-mail at [email protected] with "Black Needle" in the subject line and your contact info/address in the body and we will send you a replacement silver needle. Please keep in mind again that we are doing this purely for cosmetic reasons and not because of any performance issue.
b) On the first shipment of engines the High Speed needle came set from the factory too lean. The factory settings were at 5 turns out. This is too lean and should be backed out to 8 turns out during break in. After break in as with any engine lean it appropriately for the temp and performance that you are looking for. This is the biggest problem that I can see and personally believe that this is what is leading to most of the tuning related complaints. I personally believe that most people probably do not realize that the engine is set too lean which is causing it to bog and lean it down some more making the problem worse. So again when you receive an engine please richen the high speed needle approximately 3 turns (to 8 out) during break in and then tune from there.
I think that this should cover most of the comments by people. In our testing session yesterday we did not have any problems with the tuning once we richened the HS needle. Performance was great and the engines ran consistently. We did not break any pull starts (be gentle!). We did however go through 2 Savages as we blew out the rear diff in the first one after a couple of tanks!
Now I just want to address a couple of the "sounds like junk" and assorted comments by people like kickeralpine, netrangero. While I appreciate your input, and everyone is entitled to it I find comments like this non-constructive. I'm completely open to receiving feedback both positive and negative on products that we support however I have to ask have you ever ran one of these engines? I can understand how people are tempted to say things like this but I still find it offensive. Me and my partner started Werks Racing several years ago because we were tired of dealing with companies that did not support us and took out money for sub standard products. Yes, we were racers just like most of you. Our whole mentality has always been and will continue to be to only sell high quality products that we, as racers would use our self, and to provide them with the kind of support that racers require. Everyone that works here races, and if you need technical support when you call in, every person that answers the phone can help you. Not just 1 guy in the back and everyone else is clueless.
You will notice we are not selling relabeled made in China engines like most of our competitors. Why? Because while our cost on them would be about 50% of what we are paying for Italian engines like the Picco's and Collari's allowing us to make a whole lot more profit, I do not think that the quality or performance of the engines are up to snuff. It is getting better but again as a racer I have always wanted the best for my self and if my name or my companies name is associated with it that is all that I'm going to sell. The Collari engines that you called "junk" are designed by one if not the best on-road racer in the world, Lamberto Collari, having won 6 world champions. His ability to test and develop engines combined with his fathers engine development skill which have been used by people such as RB makes for a killer team making some of the most powerful engines available. Pushing on Car Actions dyno over 1.6HP out of a roar legal 3 port .12 and as you will see in an upcoming issue over 3HP out of one of our .21 engines. This is far from junk.
In any case, I apologize about the long post but I wanted to hit on a lot of things. Again if you would like help with your engines or have questions please do not hesitate to post or to contact us directly, supporting our products and customers is what we are here for.
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
I have seen a variety of posts both positive and negative regarding peoples experience with the engine. Having been in the business for a while I will be honest and say that this is to be expected. I have found that there is needless to say a wide range of experience levels represented amongst people in what I will call more consumer oriented categories like the MT class. Having said that let me be clear and say that I'm by no means blaming any problems that people may be having on inexperience etc.
Yesterday we randomly pulled several production engines from stock, broke them in and ran them in an attempt to replicate some of the issues that I have observed people mentioning on this thread. From this session yesterday I can clearly say the following:
1) We have found no issues in regards to air leaks and there should be no need what so ever to seal your engines with RTV. I know that some people simply prefer to do this, and there is nothing wrong with doing it if you would like.
If you have an engine and feel that you have an air leak give us a call and we will take care of it under warranty as we do with all manufacturing defect related issues.
2) Drilling out your plastic fuel nipple. This is something that one of our people told to a single customer over the phone as a way to increase fuel delivery if he would like. It has since become one of those internet rumors that seems to take on a life of it's own and now supposedly needs to be done to each engine in order for it to work. Let me clearly state this is NOT a necessity, it is something that you can do to increase the fuel flow. You do not need to do this in order to run the engine. You can do it if you would like and it can increase slightly the performance, it is NOT however necessary.
3) Tuning problems. We have found 2 things:
a) In the first shipment of engines a small number of the carbs came with a slightly longer High Speed needle. This needle is black in color and is about 2mm longer than the correct needle which is silver. The black needle has exactly the same taper as the silver one so it will flow fuel identically. Again the difference is ONLY that it is 2 mm longer. As the needles seat completely from a tuning stand point when screwed to 8 turns out on the silver needle it is exactly the same as 8 turns out on the black needle and is flowing exactly the same amount of fuel so there is absolutely no difference from a performance stand point. What it does mean is that with the black needle when turned out 8 turns the top of the needle will stick up an additional 2 mm. This gives the deceptive appearance that the needle is sticking out too much and some will think that it looks like it might fall out, it will not but it is an appearance thing that we intend to take care of.
We have replacement silver needles in-route to us at this time from the manufacturer and will be able to send these out later next week. So if you have received a carb with the black needle please send us an e-mail at [email protected] with "Black Needle" in the subject line and your contact info/address in the body and we will send you a replacement silver needle. Please keep in mind again that we are doing this purely for cosmetic reasons and not because of any performance issue.
b) On the first shipment of engines the High Speed needle came set from the factory too lean. The factory settings were at 5 turns out. This is too lean and should be backed out to 8 turns out during break in. After break in as with any engine lean it appropriately for the temp and performance that you are looking for. This is the biggest problem that I can see and personally believe that this is what is leading to most of the tuning related complaints. I personally believe that most people probably do not realize that the engine is set too lean which is causing it to bog and lean it down some more making the problem worse. So again when you receive an engine please richen the high speed needle approximately 3 turns (to 8 out) during break in and then tune from there.
I think that this should cover most of the comments by people. In our testing session yesterday we did not have any problems with the tuning once we richened the HS needle. Performance was great and the engines ran consistently. We did not break any pull starts (be gentle!). We did however go through 2 Savages as we blew out the rear diff in the first one after a couple of tanks!
Now I just want to address a couple of the "sounds like junk" and assorted comments by people like kickeralpine, netrangero. While I appreciate your input, and everyone is entitled to it I find comments like this non-constructive. I'm completely open to receiving feedback both positive and negative on products that we support however I have to ask have you ever ran one of these engines? I can understand how people are tempted to say things like this but I still find it offensive. Me and my partner started Werks Racing several years ago because we were tired of dealing with companies that did not support us and took out money for sub standard products. Yes, we were racers just like most of you. Our whole mentality has always been and will continue to be to only sell high quality products that we, as racers would use our self, and to provide them with the kind of support that racers require. Everyone that works here races, and if you need technical support when you call in, every person that answers the phone can help you. Not just 1 guy in the back and everyone else is clueless.
You will notice we are not selling relabeled made in China engines like most of our competitors. Why? Because while our cost on them would be about 50% of what we are paying for Italian engines like the Picco's and Collari's allowing us to make a whole lot more profit, I do not think that the quality or performance of the engines are up to snuff. It is getting better but again as a racer I have always wanted the best for my self and if my name or my companies name is associated with it that is all that I'm going to sell. The Collari engines that you called "junk" are designed by one if not the best on-road racer in the world, Lamberto Collari, having won 6 world champions. His ability to test and develop engines combined with his fathers engine development skill which have been used by people such as RB makes for a killer team making some of the most powerful engines available. Pushing on Car Actions dyno over 1.6HP out of a roar legal 3 port .12 and as you will see in an upcoming issue over 3HP out of one of our .21 engines. This is far from junk.
In any case, I apologize about the long post but I wanted to hit on a lot of things. Again if you would like help with your engines or have questions please do not hesitate to post or to contact us directly, supporting our products and customers is what we are here for.
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
04-21-2005, 12:40 AM
#2
Collari
Well I have heard pretty good things about the Collari 30! I don't know Mike personally but it sounds like he knows what he is doing. I would also agree that most of Nitro engine problems are do to lack of experience IE breaking them in or tunning and sofourth 
Last edited by HELLION; 04-24-2005 at 01:23 PM.
04-21-2005, 04:48 AM
#3
.30 BABY!!!! The B3 and B7 are GREAT mills, dont see why the .30 would be any diff.
04-24-2005, 10:32 AM
#4
Just so you know that whole tid bit up their was written by Ron @ Werks Racing. I haven't had one problem with my Collari at all since I have bought it and it is definately the best engine I've ever had since I got back into nitro a few years ago now. Must be an Italian thing.....LMAO!!!
04-24-2005, 04:18 PM
#5
Tech Rookie
I RECENTLY PUT A COLLARI 30 ON A HYPER 7 BUGGY WITH A 2 SPEED TRANNY ....IVE ONLY COMPLETED THE INITIAL BREAK IN PERIOD AND IT JUST SNOWED HERE IN MICHIGAN SO I GUESS ILL HAVE TO WAIT TO SEE WHAT IT DOES.....AS FAR AS COLLARI BEING GOOD THEY ARE GREAT...I HAD A FEW QUESTIONS REGUARDING MY OTHER COLLARI ENGINE LC.21GT WICH IS ON MY SERPENT 950R ON ROAD CAR AND THEY WERE MORE THAN HELPFULL ON THE PHONE....BY THE WAY ERIC(AT WERKS) THE SERPENT WAS ABSOLUTLEY BALLISTIC UNTIL MY FAIL SAFE WENT KAPUT AND I LOST CONTROL OF THE CAR BRIEFLY ...IM HAPPY TO SAY I DIDNT BREAK IT BUT I DIDNT GET TO FINISH MY TESTING THIS BAD MAMMA JAMMA LC21GT MOTOR...
04-25-2005, 08:23 PM
#6
Tech Rookie
ok i tried out the buggy today got it close to race tune and im not totally impressed....however with the 2 speed it hits very hard out of the hole im just not impressed with the top speed.......the collari ran grat though i was impressed with the motor....thought id experiment with it before i put it on my lst...but first im gonna have a friend mod the 30 beast for me ....
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