my rule of thumb in charging

1. the lower the Amps during charging the better it is - it stores more and batteries will last longer. I follow the 'trickle charging' concept. Drawback - it takes such a long time to charge.

2. i always take maximum 75% of the amps during charge. ie..if charging a 5000Mah lipo..i would set it to at most 3.5A during charge...note: at most follows the 75% and if lower, it follows the trickle charging as point 1. a balance of your own time to charge..

3. I always avoid fast charge if i can help it...this is against my point 1.

true..i believe you dont need a 10A charger..a standard 5A intelligent charger is sufficient. A 10A charger will allow you to charge at higher Amps and lower time to charge..but in my opinion, it is at the expense of the life of the lipo..as it is against my rule of thumb of point 1 and point 2.

if you are a racer - then you may need a 10A charger...where you need to charge fast in between heats and after 1 or 2 races..you will 'throw/give away the battery'. Racers tend to charge it with high amps and as fast as possible to get the most of the lipo performance during races at the expense of longer battery life.

the same goes to ESC and motor..i follow the 75% maximum rule of thumb - the max I will set in terms of load(ESC and motor pinion/spur) is 75% as there are other external factors that will increase that 75% to higher..ie. playing in tall grass/loose sandy beach or even on an extremely dry/hot weather..this will increase the 75% to a number that is higher...imagine this..normal setup is 90% tile..when you go on tall grass, where it will increase the load, it will hit 100% or more(tendency to burn) very easily.

above is my rule of thumb in general lay-mans term.

Yes. Charge 5,000mah at 5a and 5,600mah at 5.6a. The faster you charge, the more likely the lipo will be damaged, however I have charged my 6,000mah lipos at 8a before.. They just get hot but the charging time is reduced.


After everyrun, wait until the lipo cools down before charging. Wait until the chemicals in the pack settle. Otherwise the lipo will 'swell' up and might explode. Do not discharge a lipo until it's pass 3.7v per cell. Otherwise damage will be made and the lipo pack might swell and explode.

The more expensive, newer lipos are alot safer than what I've mentioned, but I've seen airsoft guys get lipos pop inside of their guns and the white smoke from the pack was just scary. (He was using a cheap chinese pack).

I have had about 4x 2s lipo packs swell in my first year of trying out electric. It' s more work than I thought. Just make sure you understand how to take care of the lipos.

this will help:
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a..._ideal_battery
http://evmc2.wordpress.com/2012/03/1...eding-of-lipo/
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209187

Hi

Can you tell me where you find the e-mta for 420 € include shipping please ?

Nowhere now.. I bought my MT4 for that, and the shop offered me the E-MTA for the same price before they were in stock. Once he got them though the price shot up to €479. You can get them for €450 + shipping though from at least one German shop..

enjoying your MT4?

Very much so.. Glad I went with it over the E-MTA and SC8.2e or some 10th scale SC.

Great value for money, and brushless is more fun than I would have wanted to admit. But all the anti-nitro trash-talking put me on the defensive... It's a trip to walk through the neighborhood with this crazy fast RC. You can run it in areas here where if you went with nitro they'd call the police.. I can walk out the front door and turn it on, and drive it up to the public park with families walking around, etc..

I still prefer nitro but electric just has waay more power.

Gonna' be interesting to run some nitro after messing around with electric for a while..

I have a ton of nitros, so they're not going anywhere..

Nitros will drown electrics out.

I Agree...but have you ever run a really powerful nitro ? I only ask as I feel very few people ever experience nitro's full capabilities....At my track the Nitro's are faster then the BL cars....The BL has more instant power, but once rolling the nitro's are a litle faster.....Now of course all the nitro's at my track are high powered modifieds which makes a big difference....

I have felt souped up engines. Mine is a sirio cl7b sti. Faster than all my cars, nitro and brushless. But just not as quick and torquey

a CL7B is nice....I had a few of those...good engines... However there are nitro's much more potent then that.....

Crazy.. Just went downstairs to run up and down the road since, being New Year's Eve, everything is in a state of chaos anyway.. Plugged in the bat, turned everything on, hit the throttle, and............................................... ......... wwwwhhhrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..

"Great, something's fxxxed..." I thought. Nope.. Took the bod and cage off, and saw there was no pinion!! Ran yesterday flawlessly, turned it off, threw it in the car.. Anyway, looked around the sidewalk for it for about ten minutes. Came back inside, looked around in the truck, didn't see anything, then held it upside down and shook it. Out plopped the pinion. Threadlock is drying on a well-screwed in grub screw now..


(ps Checked it before running a week ago- seemed fine.. Oh well... Should have checked again...)

LOL , yeah ..... always loctite the set screw on the pinion . Or any metal into metal screws for that matter .......

Glad to see you are enjoying the truck , I was a nitro head for a long time till I moved to where I am now and the neighbors started to complain about the noise , before that I hated electrics cause they had no power and short runtimes (and they did) . But brushless motors and LiPo batteries have changed all that .

Now I set out lights when it gets dark and keep running cause they dont mind the electrics at all .

Ahh I know. But it is the best I can afford.