ok so i just got in the game of nitro r/c. i know this is a stupid question but just wanted to make sure i didnt get ripped off i got told this is a tmaxx 3.3 truck. and it needs a transmission. first off can you tell me for sure what truck this is. also what all do i need to get it to run like i stated the transmission is bad. it has a starter and remote. thanks guys for the help and feel free to school me on this new found hobby.

here is the info i got

Traxxas T-Maxx with a new 3.3 (only driven twice for a few hours), comes with original OS .18 TM(some scratches and a little dirty). Venom Start-Temp, Traxxas R Resonator, EZ Start (with battery pack), HPI wheels with HPI Super Swampers, many aluminun parts including brn new front bulkheads & skid plates, extra filter, HPI Nitro MX-1 Truck Body,RPM Front & Rear Bumpers, Traxxas Tuning DVD, Transmitter (Remote Control) & 2 chargers (red is an 8 hr charger). It just needs a transmission, both motors ran great before the tranny went in the spring and the battery door is missing on the transmitter. I don't have the time/interest to terrorize the neighborhood with it anymore.

ok i guess i dont have enough post to post pics sorry

Quick and easy answer;
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-T-MAXX-3-3-4...item5195d5c8ad

Everyone and their brother says their used nitro motors "run great!" when they're trying to sell them. It's rarely true.

Everyone's different, but personally I never pay more than 1/2 retail on a used RC item, and I NEVER buy used nitro motors.

Funny thing is, the OS 18TM, while a great engine, is NOT original equipment for a T-Maxx. The original equipment is a TRX3.3 engine.

Yeah, I was thinking the same, but hate to state the obvious. I was also wondering why someone would take a 18TM that supposedly "ran great" out of the truck, and replace it with a 3.3.

i paid 150 shipped did i get shafted

p.s. i got a video of the motor running...at least it looked like the same truck i hope i didnt get screwed

Super newb, eh? What color is your cape?

First, $150 seems a bit steep for a used T-Maxx, but is somewhat reasonable since it came with a .18TM, aluminum upgrades, etc...

Second, if that transmission still has reverse, that's likely what broke. When going to a higher power engine, a Foward Only Conversion (FOC) is very much recommended. If that's the case, purchasing the FOC will get your tranny operating again, and is fairly inexpensive ($11.69 at Tower Hobbies http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJG1&P=7)

Post up some pictures, and we can tell you exactly what model T Maxx you have.

Depending on the damage, this may be a good way to go. And I agree about buying used motors. I've only gotten a few, and have been fortunate, but I've got guys I race with who have bought used motors, and gotten total junk.

It's almost comical that the majority of motors sold on RCTech only have "1.5 gallons" on them...

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...115_020720.jpg

yay i found a way to post pics...lol my cape well i havent even earned one of those yet lol...

more pics

That would be the original 2.5 T-Maxx (model # 4910). The black Tranny, plus the black RX & battery box put it around the 2003 vintage. It's the short chassis version (you can tell by the cut out under the exhaust pipe). Depending on what the previous owner did, it could have been widened up to the newer specs with the RPM arms. It did not come with a 3.3, and definitely not an OS .18TM.

The tranny that's on yours is quite strong, once the reverse gear is removed, but it uses the old style slipper pegs, and much weaker center driveshafts. You can upgrade to a Revo-spec slipper, but it will limit your spur gear choices. Regardless, once you get the tranny fixed, be prepared to start twisting off rear center shafts. That OS is just too much for the stock plastic ones. Mine got so bad that I had 4 or 5 spares with my everytime I went out. Eventually, I found a set of center CVD's for the short chassis, which seems to have fixed that problem. Upgrading to the newer heavy duty plastic shafts would work, but they don't make them for the short chassis, so you'd have to upgrade to the longer chassis, plus shafts.

I wouldn't say you got shafted, but you paid close to top dollar for a very old truck that needs some TLC. You'll also find that aftermarket hop-up parts are becoming harder to find for this vintage. I have the same truck (mine is heavily modified), and I'm running into the same problems.

I'm likely going to sell mine, and either get a newer version to play with when I'm not racing my truggy, or switch to a Losi LST, or Associated MGT.

If you really like your truck, I'd check out some of the ebay links posted above. i saw a complete long chassis, gray tranny, and center shafts for $69.99 (buy it now). That would solve a lot of your problems, and would open you up to many more options for aftermarket parts. Your front and rear sections will bolt right up, as will your motor and electronics.

As long as the 3.3 is good you got a good deal. The pipe on that truck retails for 50 bucks alone plus i see that it has aluminum bulk heads (in the front at least) which is another solid 40-50 bucks. You did good. Be prepared to experience some learning curves though. Get a temp gun and try to keep your motor under 250 degrees. Also get a 2.4 radio or a fail safe. I have blown 2 engines by runaway trucks when i first started.... ENJOY!

My only question is what body is that? I've never seen one like that before. I had a Proline Hummvee body before with the bed in the back, but it was nothing like that one!

I see all these numbers being thrown around like 4907 4909 what model number would mine be. And what link would I go to to buy the chassis and tranny with the center shafts for 69.99. Thanks u guys have been a great deal of help

Ok saw where it was posted that mine is the 4910.... Got that solved now I just got on ebay and looked at cvd shafts they have steal ones for around fifty bucks.not bad but how will I know if it fits the short chassis