Dodge's Custom Puller Build
#1
I started the design / fab process in Sept 2010, I hand built my tvp's, engine plate, servo mounts and mid tank setup. Working on handcrafting my skid plate.
Parts I've used so far.
GH Steering Assembly, RPM Upper arms, HPI BP diffs, HPI XL running gear. 3spd Tranny (for the low first gear), CEN Batt Box, Mugen fuel tank, Integy HD rear hub carriers, Integy HD Hubs and Knuckles, HPI 24mm Hex adapter, Proline Desperado Beadlocks, Hostile Nightmare MX Tires, Hostile Molded Zero growth Foams, Hitec 7955TG for steering. IRC LST2 Mounts, LST2 Shocks, Raven Dual rate Springs.
The Power Plant.
ERCM Extreme modded LRP Zr30 Spec2, ERCM Endbleed pipe. Going to use a motosaver filter and XL Manifold (slightly modified)
Parts on Order / Waiting to be used
BashCat RC Braces, ERCM Equipment, Proline F650 Body, Thunder tiger turn buckles, 85067 to be used for steering rods. Hitec 5985MG for T/B, 8ft nylon Rod for A Roll cage (will fit under F650 shell)
Parts that break will be replaced with something else. lol
I know I'm forgetting stuff.
So far the truck is around 21Lb's. The No Limit RC Rules state that the Unlimited Pulling class must be a Minimum of 20.1Lbs.
**appearently I dont have enough posts to link to photos, so you cant see the images yet. But one day. I would link you to a site that has the images but I cant because I dont have enough posts. So, therin again, you dont get to see them yet**
Parts I've used so far.
GH Steering Assembly, RPM Upper arms, HPI BP diffs, HPI XL running gear. 3spd Tranny (for the low first gear), CEN Batt Box, Mugen fuel tank, Integy HD rear hub carriers, Integy HD Hubs and Knuckles, HPI 24mm Hex adapter, Proline Desperado Beadlocks, Hostile Nightmare MX Tires, Hostile Molded Zero growth Foams, Hitec 7955TG for steering. IRC LST2 Mounts, LST2 Shocks, Raven Dual rate Springs.
The Power Plant.
ERCM Extreme modded LRP Zr30 Spec2, ERCM Endbleed pipe. Going to use a motosaver filter and XL Manifold (slightly modified)
Parts on Order / Waiting to be used
BashCat RC Braces, ERCM Equipment, Proline F650 Body, Thunder tiger turn buckles, 85067 to be used for steering rods. Hitec 5985MG for T/B, 8ft nylon Rod for A Roll cage (will fit under F650 shell)
Parts that break will be replaced with something else. lol
I know I'm forgetting stuff.
So far the truck is around 21Lb's. The No Limit RC Rules state that the Unlimited Pulling class must be a Minimum of 20.1Lbs.
**appearently I dont have enough posts to link to photos, so you cant see the images yet. But one day. I would link you to a site that has the images but I cant because I dont have enough posts. So, therin again, you dont get to see them yet**
Last edited by dodgedude; 03-15-2011 at 07:09 AM.
#2
Just post the photo links here without the [img] tags and one of us will fix them for you.
To get your post count up a bit, just hang out in the Rookie Zone forum and post greeting messages to other new members.
I'm looking forward to seeing your build.
To get your post count up a bit, just hang out in the Rookie Zone forum and post greeting messages to other new members.
I'm looking forward to seeing your build.
#3
Hey thats a good idea breadfan, Thanks!
I tried a few different ways and cant get the links to the images up. My photobucket account is dodgedude, or you can go to savage-central.com and see the whole build thread from when I started it in september.
I'll get the pics and updates up here one day. Trying to connect with other nitro pullers
I tried a few different ways and cant get the links to the images up. My photobucket account is dodgedude, or you can go to savage-central.com and see the whole build thread from when I started it in september.
I'll get the pics and updates up here one day. Trying to connect with other nitro pullers
#4
Hey thats a good idea breadfan, Thanks!
I tried a few different ways and cant get the links to the images up. My photobucket account is dodgedude, or you can go to savage-central.com and see the whole build thread from when I started it in september.
I'll get the pics and updates up here one day. Trying to connect with other nitro pullers
I tried a few different ways and cant get the links to the images up. My photobucket account is dodgedude, or you can go to savage-central.com and see the whole build thread from when I started it in september.
I'll get the pics and updates up here one day. Trying to connect with other nitro pullers



The whole album.
http://s1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/Dodgedude780/
#5
breadfan your one awesome dude!
Yea sorry, "dodgedude" is my username 99% percent of the time, messes me up on a few accounts that need the 780 on the end of it
Anyways yea, there is the truck as it sits. Today I drew up the front bull bar support, skid plate and rear hitch assembly design. I want to keep it all looking as clean as possible.
I'll get my post count up so I can post some pics.
Yea sorry, "dodgedude" is my username 99% percent of the time, messes me up on a few accounts that need the 780 on the end of it

Anyways yea, there is the truck as it sits. Today I drew up the front bull bar support, skid plate and rear hitch assembly design. I want to keep it all looking as clean as possible.
I'll get my post count up so I can post some pics.
#6
I still havnt reached the minimum limit of posts. but there are some pics of the hitch assembly on the photobucket linked above. Thx again breadfan.
1/2" T6061 Aluminum for a hitch! Should be strong enough I think.
I ran out of sand paper so couldnt get it finished tonight. Hope to have it polished and mounted tomorrow.
1/2" T6061 Aluminum for a hitch! Should be strong enough I think.
I ran out of sand paper so couldnt get it finished tonight. Hope to have it polished and mounted tomorrow.
#8
Thx dipsherry! Been a long time working on it.
Painting the body this week, Have the first layer of FasMask drying right now.
I dont know what the minimum post count is, and I dont like posting unless its usefull info. But I hope to reach it soon so I can post some pics.
Painting the body this week, Have the first layer of FasMask drying right now.
I dont know what the minimum post count is, and I dont like posting unless its usefull info. But I hope to reach it soon so I can post some pics.
#10
So here is my painting story.
The first time I painted a body, I had it unwrapped, trimmed, painted
and mounted in about an hour.
This body took about 14 hours over 2 days. To all those out there with
insane painting skillz, I hand you my respect
.
I first started by trimming up the excess lexan from the fenders and
panels. I left some excess to work with later but took most of it away
for easier handling.Then I washed the body in the bathtub. I simply
dribbled a fair amount of SunLight dish soap into the body, and used
the shower head to rinse, and a clean cloth to rub. This took about 5
minutes.


I put on rubber gloves to prevent any oil's or contaminants from
getting on the inside lexan, Quickly layed some clean paper towel down
on my work bench and went to work. I coated the inside with 4 layers
of Parma Fasmask, I rigged up a little heater to blow on the body
between coats, to speed up the drying process. This Proline Desert Rat
body has a lot of little nooks and cranny's, and I was un-prepared for
getting into the areas. I did the best I could, but my paitence ran
thin. I ended up with some un-cured fasmask in some areas but I will
get to that later.


I had previously drawn out my rough design, using Metallic Black, Indy
Silver and Candy Blue. The Silver really accents the blue and nearly
perfectly matches the powder coating on the frame. Once all the
fasmask was cured, I used a small hobby knife, with a very small flat
edge blade to start removing the trim areas. This is when I realised I
was in trouble. Using spray cans, once I spray the trim it is going to
be very hard to see the other lines of the design.

Luckily, I followed the body contours in most areas so I made do. An
Air gun would have been very nice :roll:
I layed on about 8 coats of Black around all the trim areas. Some
(like around the rear fin) were very hard to get to. And this is where
the rushed, uncured fasmask got the better of me. I did the best I
could to remove the fasmask cleanly, but even then I couldn't angle
the spray can to fully get into the crevaces. Paitence again started
to run thin, so I settled with what I had, rather than forcing it and
botching the entire job.
(was too excited to take picture at this point. Was about 2 in the
AM)
I left the heater on between coats, and the light coats dried in ten
to fifteen minutes making it fairly quick. I hate the waiting game.I
then but out and pealed away the Silver areas. This is where my rookie
skills with fasmask and painting show through. The areas where I was
too thin, or too fast with the parma came up and were hard to cut. I
did my best to rectify this but there is some bleed through in some
areas.

6 coats of silver paint, again with 15minutes between each coat. Then
removing the rest of the fasmask, minus the window areas. 8 very light
coats of Candy Blue got me the dark, transperant color I was looking
for. I practiced on multiple cut up bottles in the previous weeks, so
get a good feel for just how dark the blue needed to be, to match the
TVP's. With 5 coats of Indy Silver backing, the blue really began to
POP
(When painting complex bodies, flip it over between coats to
help you get into all the little areas, dont worry if you miss a spot
on your first pass, there are many passes left to go
)





I backed the entire paint job with 3 thick coats of Rustolem Latex
Paint. It dries very flexibly and I think it will hold up fine to
light bashing. This truck shouldnt roll over....... :roll: Then I
rememberd to mark the body holes, I used a yellow paint marker, dabbed
the top of the body posts, and very carefully set the body on straight
and even.Using the smalles drill bit I had, I dilled a hole from the
inside. The drill bit will pull the material towards the drill, so for
best results, drill from the inside
working up to a 5/16th bit with
is slightly larger than the body posts, for easy install but a snug
fit.

Finally, I removed the window masking area, wiped the inside of the
body with a paper towel, and vacated the garage. Its too dirty for
what I did next. When you remove the overcoat protection, the body
changes. Its just....better :mr.green:



I hope you all enjoy! I know I do! This was my first real attempt at
painting a body, Read as many threads as you can, use the knowledge
from 10 or 12 guys who have done it, then get to work. Be Paitent,
Walk away if you half to (I did) and most importantly, just keep
thinking of the end result.
The first time I painted a body, I had it unwrapped, trimmed, painted
and mounted in about an hour.
This body took about 14 hours over 2 days. To all those out there with
insane painting skillz, I hand you my respect
.I first started by trimming up the excess lexan from the fenders and
panels. I left some excess to work with later but took most of it away
for easier handling.Then I washed the body in the bathtub. I simply
dribbled a fair amount of SunLight dish soap into the body, and used
the shower head to rinse, and a clean cloth to rub. This took about 5
minutes.


I put on rubber gloves to prevent any oil's or contaminants from
getting on the inside lexan, Quickly layed some clean paper towel down
on my work bench and went to work. I coated the inside with 4 layers
of Parma Fasmask, I rigged up a little heater to blow on the body
between coats, to speed up the drying process. This Proline Desert Rat
body has a lot of little nooks and cranny's, and I was un-prepared for
getting into the areas. I did the best I could, but my paitence ran
thin. I ended up with some un-cured fasmask in some areas but I will
get to that later.


I had previously drawn out my rough design, using Metallic Black, Indy
Silver and Candy Blue. The Silver really accents the blue and nearly
perfectly matches the powder coating on the frame. Once all the
fasmask was cured, I used a small hobby knife, with a very small flat
edge blade to start removing the trim areas. This is when I realised I
was in trouble. Using spray cans, once I spray the trim it is going to
be very hard to see the other lines of the design.

Luckily, I followed the body contours in most areas so I made do. An
Air gun would have been very nice :roll:
I layed on about 8 coats of Black around all the trim areas. Some
(like around the rear fin) were very hard to get to. And this is where
the rushed, uncured fasmask got the better of me. I did the best I
could to remove the fasmask cleanly, but even then I couldn't angle
the spray can to fully get into the crevaces. Paitence again started
to run thin, so I settled with what I had, rather than forcing it and
botching the entire job.
(was too excited to take picture at this point. Was about 2 in the
AM)
I left the heater on between coats, and the light coats dried in ten
to fifteen minutes making it fairly quick. I hate the waiting game.I
then but out and pealed away the Silver areas. This is where my rookie
skills with fasmask and painting show through. The areas where I was
too thin, or too fast with the parma came up and were hard to cut. I
did my best to rectify this but there is some bleed through in some
areas.

6 coats of silver paint, again with 15minutes between each coat. Then
removing the rest of the fasmask, minus the window areas. 8 very light
coats of Candy Blue got me the dark, transperant color I was looking
for. I practiced on multiple cut up bottles in the previous weeks, so
get a good feel for just how dark the blue needed to be, to match the
TVP's. With 5 coats of Indy Silver backing, the blue really began to
POP
(When painting complex bodies, flip it over between coats to help you get into all the little areas, dont worry if you miss a spot
on your first pass, there are many passes left to go
)




I backed the entire paint job with 3 thick coats of Rustolem Latex
Paint. It dries very flexibly and I think it will hold up fine to
light bashing. This truck shouldnt roll over....... :roll: Then I
rememberd to mark the body holes, I used a yellow paint marker, dabbed
the top of the body posts, and very carefully set the body on straight
and even.Using the smalles drill bit I had, I dilled a hole from the
inside. The drill bit will pull the material towards the drill, so for
best results, drill from the inside
working up to a 5/16th bit with is slightly larger than the body posts, for easy install but a snug
fit.

Finally, I removed the window masking area, wiped the inside of the
body with a paper towel, and vacated the garage. Its too dirty for
what I did next. When you remove the overcoat protection, the body
changes. Its just....better :mr.green:



I hope you all enjoy! I know I do! This was my first real attempt at
painting a body, Read as many threads as you can, use the knowledge
from 10 or 12 guys who have done it, then get to work. Be Paitent,
Walk away if you half to (I did) and most importantly, just keep
thinking of the end result.
#12
Thanks man! Its finally starting to come together.
I'll keep the thread updated as time goes on.
Made a better Bull Bar mount. Looks better, is stronger and installs way easier.
Also put the final touch on all the electronics today, and now trying to figure out what to do for decals and window tint on the body.
I'll keep the thread updated as time goes on.
Made a better Bull Bar mount. Looks better, is stronger and installs way easier.
Also put the final touch on all the electronics today, and now trying to figure out what to do for decals and window tint on the body.
#15
Thanks guys!
Once I get the chord for my video camera from ebay I'll put up a vid of the hitec7955tg servo pushing 2.5Lb's of tires around on carpet no problem! lol.
Its the only movement I get from this thing untill I get the motor in. Well, And the snow melts. The mud dries up. Man its going to be a while
Once I get the chord for my video camera from ebay I'll put up a vid of the hitec7955tg servo pushing 2.5Lb's of tires around on carpet no problem! lol.
Its the only movement I get from this thing untill I get the motor in. Well, And the snow melts. The mud dries up. Man its going to be a while






