T-maxx problem
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
From: philadelphia
hey guys i got a quick question. I recently got a tmaxx used and the only thing wrong with it was the suspension, the previous owner crashed it into a tree, so i replaced all the suspension parts and also replaced the carborator due to a small crack just to be safe.
but when i turn the truck on and try to open full throttle i hear this kind of zipping sound and if i dont let go the truck dies. but if i constantly rev it it'll go faster but sounds like it wont shift or soemthing.
any info would be appreciated. thanks in advanced!
but when i turn the truck on and try to open full throttle i hear this kind of zipping sound and if i dont let go the truck dies. but if i constantly rev it it'll go faster but sounds like it wont shift or soemthing.
any info would be appreciated. thanks in advanced!
#2
hey guys i got a quick question. I recently got a tmaxx used and the only thing wrong with it was the suspension, the previous owner crashed it into a tree, so i replaced all the suspension parts and also replaced the carborator due to a small crack just to be safe.
but when i turn the truck on and try to open full throttle i hear this kind of zipping sound and if i dont let go the truck dies. but if i constantly rev it it'll go faster but sounds like it wont shift or soemthing.
any info would be appreciated. thanks in advanced!
but when i turn the truck on and try to open full throttle i hear this kind of zipping sound and if i dont let go the truck dies. but if i constantly rev it it'll go faster but sounds like it wont shift or soemthing.
any info would be appreciated. thanks in advanced!
#3
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
From: philadelphia
ok maybe zipping isnt the best way to describe it more of like a struggle to shift a gear after i pull the throttle open alot; could it be my transmission? i dont really feel like replacing it if i dont have to.
#4
Does the truck still have reverse? If so it may be the linkage that engages either forward or reverse gear. You said he crashed it into a tree, the linkage may have moved. Check the forward/rev servo and see if it is fully engaged into either.
#5
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
From: philadelphia
no reverse, i dont think the 3.3 tmaxx has reverse, correct me if im wrong.
and when you say the linkage, do i need to take the transmission apart?
#6
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,147
but when i turn the truck on and try to open full throttle i hear this kind of zipping sound and if i dont let go the truck dies. but if i constantly rev it it'll go faster but sounds like it wont shift or soemthing.
any info would be appreciated. thanks in advanced!
any info would be appreciated. thanks in advanced!
The "zipping sound" could be your slipper clutch, as the truck gains speed it's still under load and it can break the slipper pads loose making a "zippy sound".. Tighten it up and see if it goes away.
The truck dieing sounds like a lean condition. As you keep it floored it's burning up all the fuel in the crank case. If you rev it on and off the throttle you are purging it and it will rev higher because it's not wide open and still has fuel in it but it's still lean.
Sounds like you have 2 different problems. One is almost deff. a lean condition.
Factory carb settings are 4 out on the HSN and 1-1/2 out on the LSN or flush with the horn. You need a RICHER tune in cold weather.
#7
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 85
All my T-Maxxes had a lean out problem.The 3.3 models were the worst..It became more worse when I added a fuel filter.Its due to poor quality control aswell as a poor fueltank design.
I modded the fueltank to overcome that problem by heating and stretching the fueltank output nipple more open aswell as drilling the puffer nipple bigger too...3 trucks had casting plastic slag partially blocking fuel flow..With an unmodded fueltank full of water it took 3 1/2 mins to empty..After modification it took a tad more than half the time to empty the same full tank of water...not to mention Ive never had a lean-out condition again plus they all stay in tune more uniformly throughout the whole tankful without having to richen/lean all the time..
The zipping sound could be your diff gear in the front/rear diff or bad bearing in one of the diff cases..It could also be a gear with a broken tooth in the transmission...
Your best bet would be to remove the transmission and open it up to inspect the inside...While you have the transmission out check the diffs one at a time by twisting the pinion gear forward and reverse via the driveshaft to see if its totally smooth or if you feel a defined gear mesh..If the gear mesh seems defined like it has detent stops and doesnt feel smooth then thats the source of the noise but Id definately open up the trans also to eliminate any doubts or other problems that could pop up..Good Luck
I modded the fueltank to overcome that problem by heating and stretching the fueltank output nipple more open aswell as drilling the puffer nipple bigger too...3 trucks had casting plastic slag partially blocking fuel flow..With an unmodded fueltank full of water it took 3 1/2 mins to empty..After modification it took a tad more than half the time to empty the same full tank of water...not to mention Ive never had a lean-out condition again plus they all stay in tune more uniformly throughout the whole tankful without having to richen/lean all the time..
The zipping sound could be your diff gear in the front/rear diff or bad bearing in one of the diff cases..It could also be a gear with a broken tooth in the transmission...
Your best bet would be to remove the transmission and open it up to inspect the inside...While you have the transmission out check the diffs one at a time by twisting the pinion gear forward and reverse via the driveshaft to see if its totally smooth or if you feel a defined gear mesh..If the gear mesh seems defined like it has detent stops and doesnt feel smooth then thats the source of the noise but Id definately open up the trans also to eliminate any doubts or other problems that could pop up..Good Luck
Last edited by T-Maxxxed_Owt; 12-27-2010 at 07:07 AM.
#8
All my T-Maxxes had a lean out problem.The 3.3 models were the worst..It became more worse when I added a fuel filter.Its due to poor quality control aswell as a poor fueltank design.I modded the fueltank to overcome that problem by heating and stretching the fueltank output nipple more open...3 trucks had casting plastic slag partially blocking fuel flow..With an unmodded fueltank full of water it took 3 1/2 mins to empty..After modification it took a tad more than half the time to empty the same full tank of water...not to mention Ive never had a lean-out condition again plus they stay in tune more uniformly throughout the whole tankful without having to richen/lean all the time..
The zipping sound could be your diff gear in the front/rear diff or bad bearing in one of the diff cases..It could also be a gear with a broken tooth in the transmission...
Your best bet would be to remove the transmission and open it up to inspect the inside...While you have the transmission out check the diffs one at a time by twisting the pinion gear forward and reverse via the driveshaft to see if you feel a defined gear mesh..If the gear mesh seems defined like it has detent stops and doesnt feel smooth then thats the source of the noise but Id definately open up the trans also to eliminate any doubts..Good Luck
The zipping sound could be your diff gear in the front/rear diff or bad bearing in one of the diff cases..It could also be a gear with a broken tooth in the transmission...
Your best bet would be to remove the transmission and open it up to inspect the inside...While you have the transmission out check the diffs one at a time by twisting the pinion gear forward and reverse via the driveshaft to see if you feel a defined gear mesh..If the gear mesh seems defined like it has detent stops and doesnt feel smooth then thats the source of the noise but Id definately open up the trans also to eliminate any doubts..Good Luck
got nitro has a good point. It could be the slipper clutch you are hearing. If that is too loose it definitely won't shift. And if I were you I'd reset the carb back to the factory settings stated in the manual and tune from there. My friend bought a brand new T-Maxx 3.3 and the LS needle was set WAY lean from the factory.
#9
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
That's the 1st thing I tell anyone with a new nitro - set the needles to factory specs. They are often not set right. I've had 3 rtrs and all were set wrong (1 Tmaxx and 2 Savages).
Even used, unless it came form someone you know, start from factory settings and tune it yourself. Assuming needles are set where they're supposed to be causes a lot of headaches.
Even used, unless it came form someone you know, start from factory settings and tune it yourself. Assuming needles are set where they're supposed to be causes a lot of headaches.




