I got a lightly used MGT 8.0 and before I could run 5 tanks through it I broke it, on my second jump attempt. I broke the left rear axle carrier block (steering block) where the turnbuckle attaches. I talked to the guy at my lhs and he said that my suspension was probably too tight, my current setup is 1 red spring 1 blue spring and a clip on both front wheels, and 2 reds and 2 clips on the rears. The ride height is pretty high and I have lots of body roll, the guy at lhs also told me that I should have some sag in the suspension so that when I hit a bump the truck will kinda roll with it and I don't have much of that. I can pick it up and drop it from about 2-3 feet and it bottoms out, is that too stiff or not stiff enough? My thoughts are that the shock from the ground when bottoming out would be more damaging than the stiff suspension. I just don't want to have to keep buying parts, especially that one as it was the only one in stock and I can't afford the aluminum ones at the moment. I have no idea what weight oil is in the shocks, they are the stock shocks so I am guessing stock oil weight and no clue what it is. Any tips would be appreciated, thanks!

go get the stock specs, set it up that way except add 50wt oil. even 55wt 0r 60wt in a truck like that. how much do them things weigh anyways

http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...er=80031/177.0
don't waist your time on aluminum. RPM is a light weight plastic that is way stronger than stock or aluminum. If all you are gunna be doing is jumping then i would put a thicker shock oil on your shocks. Breaking a hub carrier has nothing to do with your shock setup.

i agree, rpm is where its at, do they make a truetrack for that truck. i got it on my t-maxx and its awsome.

Ok, I broke a lower a arm and 2 shocks over the weekend, I hit the only tree in a big open area. I am going to get rpm a arms and just replace them as they get broken. But I am looking at getting aluminum threaded shocks and was wondering if anyone had any experience or opinions on ebay shocks, I have a couple of links of the ones I have been looking at and look good to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Piggyba...d=p3286.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MONSTER-GT-M...d=p3286.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Threade...d=p3286.c0.m14

Tell me what you think of these.

Thanks!

no piggybacks they just suck, piggybacks are all about show and no go. i would just keep the stock shocks and replace the shaft with some of them nitrade coated shafts, those dont bend from my experiance.

+1
get these...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTZL1&P=BR

i have been through all of the mgt's and this is what i can throw out there for you related to your question. first off this truck weighs 13+lbs. so it will always be heavy and prone to bottoming out but has one of the strongest and hardest chassi's out there and the skid plates hold up pretty decent but will flex and bend after a while. but on the shocks, NO PIGGYBACKS' DO NOT WASTE YOU TIME OR MONEY, went down that road and came back. all you need are the associated ft blue aluminum shock caps. the factory shocks are some of the best out there for performance and durability. betwwen 50 and 60wt. shock oil is a must on this truck and a small piece of fuel tubing to act as a bump stop on the end of each shock shaft. and the blue springs are way to soft to use on this truck if you are going to be bashing and jumping it hard and big. what i found to work on my trucks best was rpm suspension arm, a must, 60wt. shock oil, a red spring on the inside shock and a copper on the outside, ft shock caps, 1 large spring clip on each red and 1 med on each copper. and one big thing to look out for on this truck is binding in the suspension caused be bent hinge pins, so check those every now and then. and the hub carrier, that does happen on rare occasions but i only broke one myself and never saw the need to upgrade the the rpm hub carriers, but they are added protection. and i won't bother buying another mgt 8.0 because that thing is just nutzzzz