emaxx questions please help me out
05-09-2009, 09:05 PM
#1
emaxx questions please help me out
I'm getting an emaxx after wanting one a long time. I have been in rc 20 plus years so I'm not new but new to the emaxx.
1 is the 3906 the later 16.8 volt and the 3905 the early black chassis 14.4 volt one or is it the other way.
2 I'm getting the black chassis one and want to upgrade the arms to blue rpm (since it has shock towers and other thing in blue rpm and I like rpm stuff in general) and wanted to make it wider aswell if I can so do I use the 3.3 arms or ? I was also going to do the rpm true track rear arms and wasn't sure if they make those in the wider version or not.
3 I'm going to a 8xl bl with 4s lipo in it and know I need to upgrade the trans idler so I will and when I got the arms wanted to put in the revo drive shafts all the way around is that a good idea or ?
4 What gears should I use with the 8 xl ?
I'm sure I have more questions but still doing searches to figure some stuff out. Thanks for your help.
1 is the 3906 the later 16.8 volt and the 3905 the early black chassis 14.4 volt one or is it the other way.
2 I'm getting the black chassis one and want to upgrade the arms to blue rpm (since it has shock towers and other thing in blue rpm and I like rpm stuff in general) and wanted to make it wider aswell if I can so do I use the 3.3 arms or ? I was also going to do the rpm true track rear arms and wasn't sure if they make those in the wider version or not.
3 I'm going to a 8xl bl with 4s lipo in it and know I need to upgrade the trans idler so I will and when I got the arms wanted to put in the revo drive shafts all the way around is that a good idea or ?
4 What gears should I use with the 8 xl ?
I'm sure I have more questions but still doing searches to figure some stuff out. Thanks for your help.
05-09-2009, 10:04 PM
#2
I'm getting an emaxx after wanting one a long time. I have been in rc 20 plus years so I'm not new but new to the emaxx.
1 is the 3906 the later 16.8 volt and the 3905 the early black chassis 14.4 volt one or is it the other way.
2 I'm getting the black chassis one and want to upgrade the arms to blue rpm (since it has shock towers and other thing in blue rpm and I like rpm stuff in general) and wanted to make it wider aswell if I can so do I use the 3.3 arms or ? I was also going to do the rpm true track rear arms and wasn't sure if they make those in the wider version or not.
3 I'm going to a 8xl bl with 4s lipo in it and know I need to upgrade the trans idler so I will and when I got the arms wanted to put in the revo drive shafts all the way around is that a good idea or ?
4 What gears should I use with the 8 xl ?
I'm sure I have more questions but still doing searches to figure some stuff out. Thanks for your help.
1 is the 3906 the later 16.8 volt and the 3905 the early black chassis 14.4 volt one or is it the other way.
2 I'm getting the black chassis one and want to upgrade the arms to blue rpm (since it has shock towers and other thing in blue rpm and I like rpm stuff in general) and wanted to make it wider aswell if I can so do I use the 3.3 arms or ? I was also going to do the rpm true track rear arms and wasn't sure if they make those in the wider version or not.
3 I'm going to a 8xl bl with 4s lipo in it and know I need to upgrade the trans idler so I will and when I got the arms wanted to put in the revo drive shafts all the way around is that a good idea or ?
4 What gears should I use with the 8 xl ?
I'm sure I have more questions but still doing searches to figure some stuff out. Thanks for your help.
http://fastlanemachine.com/PublicPor...9/Default.aspx
05-10-2009, 08:45 AM
#5
cool
I already got some 40 series wheels that are axial beadlocks and have moab tires for them so I'm set there. I also figured out that my early black chassis is a 3906 and planed on useing a bunch of stuff from the 3905 16.8 v chassis such as.
1 idler gears from trans
2 all drive shafts
3 rpm blue arms and spindles (true track in rear)
Is this the way to go I've heard go things about these parts for upgrades and only want to get parts once instead of having to buy parts over. My emaxx that I got has cvds in the front so will they work with the arms and spindles or are the different or to short for the 3905 stuff?
1 idler gears from trans
2 all drive shafts
3 rpm blue arms and spindles (true track in rear)
Is this the way to go I've heard go things about these parts for upgrades and only want to get parts once instead of having to buy parts over. My emaxx that I got has cvds in the front so will they work with the arms and spindles or are the different or to short for the 3905 stuff?
05-10-2009, 09:38 AM
#6
You might have what I have - def a 3906 but the short arm version like the orig Pro15 Tmaxx.
I went with 16.8 diffs and 3.3 knucks, suspension arms, turnbuckles, bulks and drive axles. I replaced the idlers with UE idlers and used a UE TI set of center drives - when I did all this I also replaced all the screws with alloy steel hex heads. I didn't realize how short orig arms were until I put the 3.3 stuff on it - made a big diff in how wide it is and how it drives - much less likely to flip now vs original! The 3.3 stuff is same, Tmaxx or 16.8 Emaxx.
I didn't touch the 16.8 diffs and mine has been good - I ran an 8XL and Quark 125b on 4S until the 8XL crapped out - it was hard to keep cool and it hasn't been run since. I'm getting a techno neu 1515 1Y motor and will prob go with a MMM to get it running again.
If those CVDs were on the stock suspension and it is the short arms, they will be too short with the wider suspension. The 3.3 drive axles are very strong, but require 3.3 knucks and turnbuckless.
I went with 16.8 diffs and 3.3 knucks, suspension arms, turnbuckles, bulks and drive axles. I replaced the idlers with UE idlers and used a UE TI set of center drives - when I did all this I also replaced all the screws with alloy steel hex heads. I didn't realize how short orig arms were until I put the 3.3 stuff on it - made a big diff in how wide it is and how it drives - much less likely to flip now vs original! The 3.3 stuff is same, Tmaxx or 16.8 Emaxx.
I didn't touch the 16.8 diffs and mine has been good - I ran an 8XL and Quark 125b on 4S until the 8XL crapped out - it was hard to keep cool and it hasn't been run since. I'm getting a techno neu 1515 1Y motor and will prob go with a MMM to get it running again.
If those CVDs were on the stock suspension and it is the short arms, they will be too short with the wider suspension. The 3.3 drive axles are very strong, but require 3.3 knucks and turnbuckless.
05-10-2009, 09:40 AM
#7
I already got some 40 series wheels that are axial beadlocks and have moab tires for them so I'm set there. I also figured out that my early black chassis is a 3906 and planed on useing a bunch of stuff from the 3905 16.8 v chassis such as.
1 idler gears from trans
2 all drive shafts
3 rpm blue arms and spindles (true track in rear)
Is this the way to go I've heard go things about these parts for upgrades and only want to get parts once instead of having to buy parts over. My emaxx that I got has cvds in the front so will they work with the arms and spindles or are the different or to short for the 3905 stuff?
1 idler gears from trans
2 all drive shafts
3 rpm blue arms and spindles (true track in rear)
Is this the way to go I've heard go things about these parts for upgrades and only want to get parts once instead of having to buy parts over. My emaxx that I got has cvds in the front so will they work with the arms and spindles or are the different or to short for the 3905 stuff?
05-10-2009, 10:39 AM
#8
sounds great
I will do just that and I'm running a 9xl ( which should run coller unless I go to a 5s and I will be running fans and finned coolers)) and I was thinking a 20 pinion and 65 spur. Should I go with alum bulks or just the 16.8 ones. flm ones are only 38.00 so I was thinking alum bulks and skid plates and the rest rpm parts. (arms , knuckles, bumpers) It alreadys has rpm towers and body mounts.
05-10-2009, 11:51 AM
#9
I will do just that and I'm running a 9xl ( which should run coller unless I go to a 5s and I will be running fans and finned coolers)) and I was thinking a 20 pinion and 65 spur. Should I go with alum bulks or just the 16.8 ones. flm ones are only 38.00 so I was thinking alum bulks and skid plates and the rest rpm parts. (arms , knuckles, bumpers) It alreadys has rpm towers and body mounts.
05-10-2009, 12:28 PM
#10
motors
Ya I know theres better and maybe later after the economy change I will but the wife has a tight grip on the wallet right now.
I'm going to run a 9xl for that heat issue and have had good luck with it on 4s lipo and I found a good used one from a freind for 35.00 which is hard to beat. I'm also using a hi model airplane type esc that is 200 amp cont. and up to 8s lipo and I got a new one in the package from a rc boat guy for 35.00. They work good right out of the box and have auto detect lipo cut off and don't need a pix adapter to work with a wheel type contollers either. They are programable aswell and I have used them in boats up to 8s and in a rc 8 buggy conversion I have with a 9l and it work great. Only negative is it has no reverse so it's like my racing days and have to think ahead allittle. Someday I will upgrade to mmm system and by then there will be a ton of good used ones out there.The hi model 200 is alot like the mystery 200 aswell and they run around 50.00 new plus shipping. Just a option for the other penny pinchers out there.
I'm going to run a 9xl for that heat issue and have had good luck with it on 4s lipo and I found a good used one from a freind for 35.00 which is hard to beat. I'm also using a hi model airplane type esc that is 200 amp cont. and up to 8s lipo and I got a new one in the package from a rc boat guy for 35.00. They work good right out of the box and have auto detect lipo cut off and don't need a pix adapter to work with a wheel type contollers either. They are programable aswell and I have used them in boats up to 8s and in a rc 8 buggy conversion I have with a 9l and it work great. Only negative is it has no reverse so it's like my racing days and have to think ahead allittle. Someday I will upgrade to mmm system and by then there will be a ton of good used ones out there.The hi model 200 is alot like the mystery 200 aswell and they run around 50.00 new plus shipping. Just a option for the other penny pinchers out there.
05-10-2009, 12:47 PM
#11
I ran my 8XL with an RCM heat sink and used thermal paste to put it together. I had a fan on it and 2 more on the esc. The only way I could keep it cool was to stop running after about 8 min. I tried gearing from 14 - 22t pinions with 66t spur, Nothing really helped. Running for only 8 min wasn't practical and after a while, the 8XL just lost power - when they've gotten hot over and over, they eventually demag.
9XL may be a little better, but whatever you can do for heat will help. It will run hot, regardless, their efficiency is low and that makes heat- just no way to get around with a feigao, thats why they're cheap to begin with. These also have a habit of popping the endbell off and that was one additional thing the RCM heat sink did as well as help with cooling.
9XL may be a little better, but whatever you can do for heat will help. It will run hot, regardless, their efficiency is low and that makes heat- just no way to get around with a feigao, thats why they're cheap to begin with. These also have a habit of popping the endbell off and that was one additional thing the RCM heat sink did as well as help with cooling.
05-10-2009, 01:34 PM
#13
end bell clamp
I might fab a end bell clamp myself into the linned coller with fans all in one. I do like the rcm one but whatever I can fab I do. I built a 1 to 1 baja v8 car with a ls1 550 hp motor and fabbed every part in the garage so I'm not scared of fabbing stuff.
05-10-2009, 03:04 PM
#15
Some of the worst work in RC is repairing damage from getting surprised. Feigaos are bad about popping the end bell, so either support the free end which stops the torque that pops the end bell off or fab some kind of clamp that will stop it from happening to start with.
Once the bell has been popped off, its hard to repair it effectively and motor is a step closer to being finished.
Once the bell has been popped off, its hard to repair it effectively and motor is a step closer to being finished.