T-MAXX ??
#2
Some guy do race the t-maxx. You have to do some minor tuning and upgrading to make them handle like a revo. Also people are getting lst2 and turning them into truggies. There are some competition monster trucks on the market like the HPI Hellfire, revo, and e-revo brushless.
Last edited by snowboard094; 03-19-2009 at 06:39 PM.
#4
Here are some tips:
-Set your ride height at level and when fully extended just a little drooping down.
-To save weight, go to a four shock set-up. Use 4 1/8th buggy shocks (fronts fit better) instead of eight. Use a stiffer spring and thicker oil if you do that.
-Get a lightweight racing chassis. If you run a big block, get an inetgy chassis or if you run small block, you can get that same integy chassis or get a Dace predator chassis (best chassis for small block t-maxxes)
-Buy a decent receiver pack and mount it under the chassis with zip ties.
-Use a nitro rustler fuel tank and drill new hole to lower center of gravity.
-Engines:
If you run in a big block class: Sirio .23 or RB concepts WS7
If you run in the small block class: OS .18 TM
-Get some RPM A-arms they are bulletproof and if you break them they will replace them free (you never will though)
-Get some good tires. (it all depends on what your track is like) I use 40 series bowties with either velocity dishes or wabash wheels. Warning: Don't use 40series tires and wheels unles you have an .18 sized engine or bigger because anything smaller can't turn them fast enough.
-Install MIP CVD's. They have less rotating mass and the shiny ones are 100 times better than the stock slider shafts.
-Get a good tuned pipe. It helps your engine breathe better and will make your engine live longer due to less restriction and back pressure. A good choice is the sirio TX-18 pipe, lots of guys use it (including me) and it gives your truck an awesome sound. Stay away from rear exhausts cause you tend to loose power in a rear exhaust set-up.
-Run your body as low as possible. Drill holes in the shock towers so that your body mounts can be extra low. Also, purchase a crowd pleazer (maxx type) from proline. Its a good tough body the has low center of gravity for racing)
-Get some lunsford titanium turnbuckles and a 1/8th scale linkage upgrade kit for your maxx. They are strong and will make your truck handle slightly better.
-Get a better steering and throttle servo. Nothing sucks more than the stock traxxas steering servo. If you plan to race, JR makes great computerized radio gear. I would suggest replacing the receiver, servos and transmitter to high-torque, metal geared servos.
Things NOT to do:
-Stay away from aluminum. Its great for bashing but its heavy and breaks way easier than plastic. Plus if you have a combination of aluminum and plastic in one spot, the aluminum will break the plastic first then it will break itself under pressure.
-Dont use cheap sources or parts. They can rip you off.
-Set your ride height at level and when fully extended just a little drooping down.
-To save weight, go to a four shock set-up. Use 4 1/8th buggy shocks (fronts fit better) instead of eight. Use a stiffer spring and thicker oil if you do that.
-Get a lightweight racing chassis. If you run a big block, get an inetgy chassis or if you run small block, you can get that same integy chassis or get a Dace predator chassis (best chassis for small block t-maxxes)
-Buy a decent receiver pack and mount it under the chassis with zip ties.
-Use a nitro rustler fuel tank and drill new hole to lower center of gravity.
-Engines:
If you run in a big block class: Sirio .23 or RB concepts WS7
If you run in the small block class: OS .18 TM
-Get some RPM A-arms they are bulletproof and if you break them they will replace them free (you never will though)
-Get some good tires. (it all depends on what your track is like) I use 40 series bowties with either velocity dishes or wabash wheels. Warning: Don't use 40series tires and wheels unles you have an .18 sized engine or bigger because anything smaller can't turn them fast enough.
-Install MIP CVD's. They have less rotating mass and the shiny ones are 100 times better than the stock slider shafts.
-Get a good tuned pipe. It helps your engine breathe better and will make your engine live longer due to less restriction and back pressure. A good choice is the sirio TX-18 pipe, lots of guys use it (including me) and it gives your truck an awesome sound. Stay away from rear exhausts cause you tend to loose power in a rear exhaust set-up.
-Run your body as low as possible. Drill holes in the shock towers so that your body mounts can be extra low. Also, purchase a crowd pleazer (maxx type) from proline. Its a good tough body the has low center of gravity for racing)
-Get some lunsford titanium turnbuckles and a 1/8th scale linkage upgrade kit for your maxx. They are strong and will make your truck handle slightly better.
-Get a better steering and throttle servo. Nothing sucks more than the stock traxxas steering servo. If you plan to race, JR makes great computerized radio gear. I would suggest replacing the receiver, servos and transmitter to high-torque, metal geared servos.
Things NOT to do:
-Stay away from aluminum. Its great for bashing but its heavy and breaks way easier than plastic. Plus if you have a combination of aluminum and plastic in one spot, the aluminum will break the plastic first then it will break itself under pressure.
-Dont use cheap sources or parts. They can rip you off.
#5
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
Steve SLayden raced a Tmaxx for Traxxas as a sponsored driver until teh Revo came out. He was competitive. He put together a series of articles on TRX that outlined what he did to make his competitive. There were 3 or 4 - seach on 'Slayden' and you'll fine the others - here's his first one -
http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...hlight=slayden
http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...hlight=slayden
#6
#7
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (35)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 836
MY POINT IS THAT, TRAXXAS PRODUCTS ARE THE MINORITIES OF RACING.
THE T MAXX JUST BREAKS AND BREAKS UNLESS YOU DUMP TONS OF MONEY INTO IT TO MAKE IT A GOOD TRUCK. STOCK, ITS A P.O.S. THE WHOLE IDEA IS TO BE A QUALITY PRODUCT WITHOUT UPGRADING AND USING OTHER MANUFACTURERS PARTS AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE.
#8
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 775
From: Connecticut
MY POINT IS THAT, TRAXXAS PRODUCTS ARE THE MINORITIES OF RACING.
THE T MAXX JUST BREAKS AND BREAKS UNLESS YOU DUMP TONS OF MONEY INTO IT TO MAKE IT A GOOD TRUCK. STOCK, ITS A P.O.S. THE WHOLE IDEA IS TO BE A QUALITY PRODUCT WITHOUT UPGRADING AND USING OTHER MANUFACTURERS PARTS AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE.
THE T MAXX JUST BREAKS AND BREAKS UNLESS YOU DUMP TONS OF MONEY INTO IT TO MAKE IT A GOOD TRUCK. STOCK, ITS A P.O.S. THE WHOLE IDEA IS TO BE A QUALITY PRODUCT WITHOUT UPGRADING AND USING OTHER MANUFACTURERS PARTS AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE.
#11
Tech Rookie
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 19
From: poplar bluff missouri
you all know opinions are like assholes everybody has one so to each his own i like my revo the next guy may like his savage the main thing is to support and keep the monster truck scene alive and well
#12
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 34
Snowboard- Mostly good tips. However, contrary to a couple of your tips, I have 2 Tmaxx's. One is set up for the parking lot races in our area and one for the dirt track. The dirt truck is almost all aluminum (Purple I might add) with a dual rear exhaust. This truck is the 4909 with the 3.3 and with zero mods to the engine except larger air intake, cooling head and the dual exhaust, I can drive by Revos on the straights and curves all day long. The heavy duty sway bars help too.




