I bought a used Traxxas T-Maxx 2.5, I am having some troubles with it. It has the EZ start 2 system. It will turn over the engine once or twice and then just stops. I can hit the starter button a time or two more and it might turn over it might not. After a few times of trying this the "motor" light on the starter wand will go out, the glow plug light stays on. I can remove the starter wand for a few seconds and try again and I get the same results. It seems like the person that I got this from didn't take real good care of it. The gear box looks like i has now oil in it (what kind of oil do I put in there?) The shocks are integy and they don't seem really to bounce back when they are moved. Just the shock oil? Is it possible that I just have a low battery on the starter system, or does it sound more like the starter motor?

Thanks for any information.

I won't lecture you on the used thing. I've been there, done that. I've also had my share of grief with said "EZ Start". Oxymoron if you ask me.

This is going to be compicated unless you can be more specific. First off, is the EZ start motor spinning, but not the engine? Or is the EZ start locking up and not turning the engine over?

The reason I ask is this: If the EZ start motor is spinning and not the engine, then the one way bearing is slipping. If the EZ start motor is just stopping and not turning the engine over, then it can be several things. A bad battery pack or too much nitro in the cylinder and not a hot enough plug to burn it off. Which usually still leads back to a bad battery pack.

Let's start there and get you running. Deal with the shocks second.

The "ez start" motor stops. When it does manage to turn the engine over it is just a time or two. As far as it being used, well the price was better than a new one and I'm somewhat limited on funds. By limited I mean married. How do I test for a bad battery? I will be honest this truck has seen better days. But with a little TLC and some time I think I can have it RTR. I plan to tear it completely down and clean the crap out of it this weekend. I do need to look up the build diagram on traxxas' website though. As far as it running it did for a bit this afternoon, made about 5 laps around local track brought it in for adjustment and it hasn't really ran since got it going for about 3 mins at home and it just died on me and hasn't started since. I did check for a fuel flood. Took plug out no fuel came out of engine when I turned it upside down. I'm going to try that again here in a few mins because I think I had some fuel come out of the pipe while messing with it. I have most likely flooded it now.

Thanks again

I must apologize for being dumb as a rock sometimes. I took the plug out earlier today and turned it upside down and when fuel didn't poor out i assumed that it wasn't fuel logged. I did how ever forget to turn the engine over while i had the plug out. After realizing my mistake and did it right. The ez start motor turns the engine over just fine now. So I again apologize for that part of my post. The shocks and gear box how ever are valid posts.

Thanks again

I did find the assembly diagrams for the truck. Still need to dig up the information on oil weight for shocks gear box etc. That way when I rebuild it this weekend I know I should get better preformance out of it.

Thanks again

No question is a stupid question. How are you going to learn unless you ask. Plus I have no idea of your experience with RC's up to this point.

I understand about marriage or limited funds. I wasn't being critical. If my ex knew what kind of money I put into my first RC, I think I would have had to sleep with one eye open.

Ok... you said you bought a used TRX 2.5. You didn't say what it came in, or what you put it in. As for the gear box... are we talking EZ Start gear box or tranny/diff.? Like what drives the wheels.

Experience is little. I might have been wrong on the TRX thing. I think TRX is a engine model? The truck is a Traxxas T-Maxx 2.5 not 2.5r the original 2.5. Tell ya what How about a picture of it. That way you all can see what it is and I don't have to try to explain things I'm not really sure of. I attached 3 pictures. Hope they work.

Thanks again

I should be more specific about the gear box I am asking about. Sorry I do not know much about what a part is called or which part is which. I am fairly mechanically inclined and very electronically inclined. But this is my first RC that didn't come from wal-mart. With that said does anyone know what weight of oil to put in that gear box. (see attached picture) As well as the maximum in weight of oil for these shocks.

Thanks again.

I found the answer to the transmission oil question. They don't need any. as for the shocks i looked up how to adjust them and the weight seems to be 40.

Thanks again

Cool. You'll find lots of info once you start looking and asking. The truck looks pretty clean anyway. Not all beat up, I mean.

I wouldn't go any heavier than 40 wt in the shocks if you plan to make any big jumps. I bought a set of Hot Bodies alum. shocks for my Savage. Not sure what oil they had in them, but I blew out seals on the first day. When I went to buy parts to rebuild them, the LHS had a clearance deal on some 28 wt. I bought all six bottles left. I haven't had any problems since, and I've had this thing over my head many times. I also have some triple rate springs on them. Not sure if it made much of a difference, but they work for me.

I got it to run yesterday some in between the rain storm. The transmission doesn't like to go between forward and reverse. From what info I found on traxxas' website that is most likely because of the idle being set to high. I also believe that the steering servo is severely worn. The wheels will turn but seems to be sluggish. They won't turn if it is sitting still though. I still need a few parts for this weekends rebuild. The flywheel is missing 2 teeth and when I got it there was a clutch bell gear that came with it. So I assume that that needs to be replaced as well.

Thanks again

Yeah, I'd fix the teeth issue. The steering servo can be from several things. Are you using regular AA batteries in the truck, or are you using a rechargeable hump pack?

If getting a hump pack is out of the question. Look into some good rechargeable AAs that are being used for todays electronics. Either way, you want something that has at least a 2000 mah rating. That should give the servo what it wants. If that doesn't turn the wheels then you may need to find a more powerful servo.

If you are using the battery box that came with the truck (the one that holds 4AA's) don't use rechargeables in it.

The rechargable batteries have a voltage of 1.2v/cell, as opposed to 1.5v/cell for alkaline batts.

That's why we use rechargable hump packs, they have 5 cells and fit in the same space that the 4AA batteries do. And they have better voltage.

As for the servo, as long as your batteries are charged, they should be able to turn the wheels.

They are a highly stressed part on a truck and you're better off buying the best servo you can afford.

Cheers

Ash

Yes and no. I just discussed this a bit ago. Here:http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=158113

It might help a bit more. The newer rechargeable NMH are still better than any AA. If you can't afford to buy a hump pack and a charger to charge them, it's another option. He did say he's on a budget/married.

I have a hump pack but no charger, I put the original 4AA pack in the truck with 4 new energizer AAs. I did go purchase a hitec servo but the guy told me that the stock servo saver would work. It would bolt up but the teeth pattern on the saver were to big for the servo. I have to go purchase one of the savers now for the hitec servo. The wheels will turn ok while moving. But I think the response is sluggish The servo that I bought is a HS-645MG that a good servo?

Thanks again