ffd173

No. That's 31 degrees Farenheight, but it's not the temp of the engine, it's just the outside air temp. I'm not sure how hot the engine itself was.



Is the clutch the two black curved things(clutch shoes?) that are on the drive shaft and held with springs? If so, what would you recommend for a replacement set that is the best quality?

Thanks!!

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

Have you checked the WOT PAGE?

My advice, if u not dare,... and this is your 1st engine.. dont do it. Why? bcoz its easy to screw up and you'll hate me and J. Cyrul for it.

touched only the High speed needle... turn it like very rich, like 2 full turn from the factory. this is to ensure you are richer than usual. its so rich when u open wide the throttle.. it dies of too much fuel. if it still spin like crazy.. u need to turn anticlockwise again, richen it more.

regular temp to run-in the engine, is below 90Celcius at 1st tank and then slowly above but under 100C. you need to wrap the engine head with some aluminium foil or better.
get good temp gun.
how many tanks? at least a gallon...then its only considered fully run-in. but im not mean idling.... its all explain at the WOT PAGE!
if you nervous, or unsure... get back to the engine manual. thats the safest way. at least if anything goes wrong.. u can blame the manufacturer. and not me.

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

too cold my friend. wrap the head! use hair dryer or something to heat it up!



yes thats the one. its overheated easily especially using bigger engine like your OS. whats your spur/clutch bell combo? the stock combination is too low for bigger engine like the OS.. is that OS 30???

LOWGEARED

iTrader: (2)

NO wouldnt hate for anything.... But will stick to manual ... Its quite simple to break this motor in acctually ... Theres no real major factors except after every tank, let it cool! I found I cant rely on factory settings anymore. Engines on its 5th tank and makin compression wildly. So naturally factory settings overflooding my engine ... So basically I started from the leanest settings and worked up from there and it put me at HSN 3 LSN 2.5 CCW Its freakin cold out and I aint waitin till spring to do this breakin .. Anyway My run temps today were awsome 200 - 230 on the dot ... I usa a duratrax flashpoint to measure my temp and keep it in my pocket so I can get an ok reading on it.

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

great... thats about the right temp in F.

ffd173

I did have it wrapped. I keep it inside when I'm not using it.


My engine is the OS 30VG(P) for the Savage 4X4
I don't know what you mean by the spur/clutch bell combo. It is whatever came stock on the Savage with the .21BB engine.
What would you recommend for my engine to handle the heat and load for a clutch setup? That's what I want to replace.

P.S. I've had it apart to change out the engines. I reused all of my stock clutch parts. I have seen all of the parts, I just don't know what they are all called.

LOWGEARED

iTrader: (2)

When they say alot of blue/white smoke comin out the exhaust is that alot visibly. Cause I warm my rc up inside and its hard to see smoke (some but not like a smoke out situation)

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

u can go here savage S25, RTR, XSS etc for more savage questions. you should go there in the 1st place i'll answer u there!

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

when warm up... not much smoke there..if just being "inside". you need to take it out and run it for a length. it usually means when u full throttle, u still can see some light blue smoke.. but usually none. thats why u need temp gun.. just make sure its not on leaner setting. better to see smoke than none.

ffd173

I am in the right place. Lowgearhead hijacked my thread and started asking his own questions.

I started this thread about starting and tuning my new engine. The fact that it is a Savage truck is irrelevant.

It has turned into some other questions because of other problems that have come up. I didn't see the need to start a whole new thread about it and reexplain everything.

I will REPOST my question somewhere else if that is what's needed to get some help.

And Lowgearhead, nothing personal, but please don't hijack the new thread. If you have questions, please start your own thread.

Thank you.

celeritas

YEAH!

celeritas

He is asking you to count the number of teeth on the clutch bell, and the spur gear. The combination of gears determins the gear ratio.

jfc is telling you to either get a clutch bell with more teeth, or a spur with less teeth, or both.

jfc, what would you reccomend as a good combo for his OS .30?

You will want to get some alum. clutch shoes, with some stronger (thicker) springs. This will cause the engine to rev higher before the clutch engages, and keep the clutch disengaged at an idle, causing it (clutch bell and shoes) to run cooler (less friction).

Stronger springs will also allow you to increase the idle speed, and stop the tires from turning when the motor is at an idle.

I'm not the guy to ask about gear combos for savages, but I can tell you that if you're racing, you will want to be accellerating for about 75% of the longest straight, top speed for 25%, before you have to get on the brakes to make a turn. Gears are going to make a huge difference in how your truck performs (top speed, and torque).

Most guys who race, have a few different clutch bells and spur gears, so they can change the combo to suit the track they are racing on.

Did you know HPI makes a 3 speed tranny? The OS .30 might be the right motor for this tranny? Might be worth a try, if you could pick one up cheap.

celeritas

Go ask Horatio, he will know.

LOWGEARED

iTrader: (2)

I didnt highjack crap !!!! I asked a few 2 questions school boy then left!!!!!! I dont think it interfered with your buisness any way!!! I dont hear of any one else complaining when you go on to there threads and ask a question thats what there theyre for. So I have a new engine that needs help!!! HMMMMMM !!!!! sounds like the title of your new thread... Why help one when you can help many stingy
Keep walkin!

celeritas

Open a window. J/K