chainsaw10

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good! But I always need my trucks to be on the verge of blowing tires off the wheels!!!. 4s minimum fo me. I ran a second full 4S 6500mah lipo after I replaced the screw....I ran really hard and had zero issues at all. Flawless this time. It’s a very fun little bugger to bash around!

celt

iTrader: (5)

Glad you got it sorted dude, bummer when that stuff happens the first run out. It's just a nice size, tuck it under your arm, little beast.

chainsaw10

iTrader: (1)

Ran two packs today and beat the living snot out of this truck. Everything held up great. It’s is a tuff little sucker. It took tons of really hard hits from all angles.
Here’s my chassis after 4 runs.

werner sline

you run it like you stole it ? or you run it like you hate it ? or want the death of it ??

NevWeezy

Hey Chainsaw10, got a question for you since i know you have experience with the Hobbystar 4092 motors.

I am gonna get one for my Kraton, do you think the 1730kv will be nice. Or should i got lower in kv and get the 1480kv. Im planning on running 6s. I wanna get the 1480kv and gear it up to how fast i want it. Im gonna be bashing mostly, maybe some speed run for fun.

I just dont wanna get the 1480kv and it not have enough punch on 6s. I think the 1730kv should run cool also in a Kraton. Im gonna be running Trencher 40 series if that matter.

Thanks

FunnieKid

The 1730kv runs very hot, if not using a heatsink and fan.

grabbem88

iTrader: (1)

That hobbystar don’t get hot... it is not a smooth can either it is really a 4292 with ribbed rings.

I run the 1480kv on 6s in my lst center diff 52/15 trencher X’s and I can bring the front end up at any speed (which isn’t so easy compared to a tranny lst)

Very impressive motor and the wires are longer with 6.5 bullets

chainsaw10

iTrader: (1)

I’ve had A HobbyStar 4092 1700 up to 200 degrees on 4s running mx38 Badlands in the et48 truggy. I seem to maintain lower temps on my Leopard 4092 1700 and TP Power 92mm motors. I also received a defective HobbyStar 4092 that got returned. It ran like I had drag brake set on the truck....and got really hot really quick. I definitely prefer Leopard or TP

grabbem88

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me both leopard and hobbystar are like raffles. I’ve had more leopards fail so I tried a hobbystar.. I ran that sucker 20 minutes in tall leafy grass and 110* is all it got up to.

I’ve never been a fan of 1700kv and especially 1800kv cause they always ran hot and felt aniemec and some motors were Tekin so it’s not the you get what you paid for type of deal

Backyard RC

That's interesting info about the heat issues. I've got a 17**kv in my Kraton and I've been fighting the heat on it. I keep going through the drive line, thinking I've got a bad bearing somewhere. It's good to hear that it's not just me.

Chainsaw, it must be rocky where you've been bashing. How do you like the 1 mil fluid?

NevWeezy

Thank you guys for the input. I was gonna get the Leopard in the first place but i heard of issues. I was told Hobbystar is the way to go as far as budget long cans.

I bought the Hobbystar 4092 1480kv and a Hobbywing Max6. Hope this works out, if not its just a $70 motor. I mean, it still gonna suck if the motor runs hot or doesnt preform but atleast its not a $120+ motor.

Also i went with Hobbystar because it has m3 and m4 mounting holes. Since my Kraton runs m4. Also it has fins and 6.5mm bullets. It also has a cleaner look. We will find out if i made the right choice in the next week or so.

If it isnt what im after i will fork out the cash for a TP motor.

celt

iTrader: (5)

Four runs at the "crucible" - monster truck proving grounds.

Dang man, you gave that thing a thrashing...

chainsaw10

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have very rough dirt terrain with lots of rock in my backyard. Chassis scratches don’t hurt anything...just a beautiful patina on the bottom

1 mil is perfect in my opinion...it’s doesnt lock up the diff like you’d think. If you’re running a high power system its needed distribute power evenly. It’s controllable...not super over wheelie prone.

Backyard RC

I changed the fluid in my diffs, 30k-500k-10k and it felt a lot better. The front and rear diffs had a yellow grease in them. The center had a hint of 100k (That's what the book says) but not much else. I want to put 50wt in the shocks next.

Here's some ground level shots of the second run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7cOe1ukUL8

chainsaw10

iTrader: (1)

I glanced back at this picture from 2 days ago and noticed the rear “D” block hinge pin holder was bent. ..I didn’t even notice with the truck in front of me.


These blocks are thick(depthwise), yes...but they’re not tall enough, not enough meat above and below the screw holes. That’s where the bend is.
I saw that Rich Duperbash on Youtube broke his block. He also melted a pivot ball retainer too.
This truck has some VERY nice aspects....but some definite design problems that would’ve revealed themselves quickly if Proline actually tested these trucks before they were released. Unfortunately this thing can’t be treated like a Tekno.
The pivot ball problem is easy to fix and probably won’t happen again. But these hinge pin holder blocks really need to be beefier...