Hampton MN Rc Racing
11-19-2006, 06:14 AM
#258
What the heck is goin on around here. Should only take 2 hours tops to build a 1/12 scale. There's nothin to 'em. No excuses. Be there Tuesday, or be square. 
11-19-2006, 09:01 AM
#259
Tech Adept
do you guys race nitro or just electric
because i am moving to mn from socal and need a place to practice on-road not to far from woodbury
because i am moving to mn from socal and need a place to practice on-road not to far from woodbury
11-19-2006, 09:42 AM
#260
11-19-2006, 10:18 AM
#261
Originally Posted by mattster
do you guys race nitro or just electric
because i am moving to mn from socal and need a place to practice on-road not to far from woodbury
because i am moving to mn from socal and need a place to practice on-road not to far from woodbury
11-21-2006, 01:38 AM
#263
Hey Mark, wonderin' if I'm gonna have to stop at the hobby shop before I come down and race tonite. Do you have any Motor Spray and Tire traction compound. If not. Then I know what I must do.....GIT 'ER DONE!!!!!!!
11-21-2006, 06:40 AM
#264
Bubby
I got em !
I got em !
11-21-2006, 09:21 AM
#265
NICE
11-21-2006, 10:45 AM
#266
P.S. I have not set up an credit card machine yet, so bring cash or check please.
Pics of first lay-out should be up on the web site soon.
Pics of first lay-out should be up on the web site soon.
11-21-2006, 09:39 PM
#267
Good racing tonight, some tight racing action in the mains. Here is a pic of the first night out for 12th scale...lots of fun!
Also, congrats to Rick P. on TQ and the win for the Corally! Bub was a very close 2nd with his CRC, and Dan O in 3rd with a 12L4.
I helped a couple people out and got a request to post a few tips in here so here ya go. I'll add more later, but just going to cover some basics for now...
Key tip #1 - Diff Building
Learn how to build a good diff. A good diff will be smooth while still being quite secure. You check this by holding both rear tires and trying to move the gear with your thumb. With significant effort it should just move.
Key components to a good diff:
1) Good clean, undamaged bearings (most important)
2) new diff balls, ceramic are nice but spendy, normal diff balls are fine, buy in quantity since you will be checking your diff on a weekly/bi-weekly basis.
3) Diff rings. Again, buy several sets, that should last you the season. You can use both sides of the diff ring; however, the none polished side can be polished by dremel or 1000 grit sand paper.
4) Building a good thrust washer. This is often overlooked when building a diff but is also very critical to the quality of the diff build. be sure to use ample black grease and replace the balls when you replace the diff balls.
If you follow those simple steps, you'll have much better success with the performance of your 12er.
Key Tip #2 - Gear Mesh
Be sure to set your gear mesh to the high spot on the spur gear. You check this by rotating the spur gear every 3-4 teeth until you find the spot with the least gear lash. You set your mesh to that spot.
Key Tip #3 - Tire Maintenance
It is very important to clean out the tires after each run for consistancy. As far as adding tire sauce, it is important it be on your tires at least 5 mins before the race. The longer the compound sets in, the more traction (to a degree) can be achieved. Be sure to rotate the tires from side to side after the 2nd qualifier, it will help maintain their shape and keep you from trueing them before its necessary
Key Tip #4 - Tweak
Spend $30 and get a MIP tweak guage, its a critical tool for 12th scale. Tweak decribes a condition in which the rear pod under power will react differently to steering inputs from right or left. This often causes an inbalance in the car the driver can easily indentify. Often times it results in a car hooking or pulling to one side under power.
It is important to rectify and check this between rounds when you have time. Simple steps are:
1) Make sure teh tweak screws are "just" engaged to the chasis. This is important since if the screws are too far in, they will add tweak to the T-Bar.
2) Level the tweak board
3) Place car on center on board with rear of car on tilting side of balancer
4) check bubble for proper tweak, once it is in the center the tweak is set.
5) Be sure both tweak screws touch the chassis as a precaution after adjustment
IMPORTANT NOTE: When adjusting tweak, it is important to make small changes to both screw and not just one for each adjustment. This will prevent one screw from beign turned in or out too far.
Also consider that if you tweak a new car and it comes off after hitting a board tweaked, you will need to indentify where the tweak is coming from and possibly replace the part before re-setting tweak.
Key Tip #5 - Top shock
Many people have asked what adjusting the top shock does. It controls how the car reacts to on/off power. By firming the spring or adding preload, the more steering you will have as very little of the acceleration force is moved to the rear tires (causing a loose feel, car roatates harder on power). And the inverse is also true, the softer you go the more on-power steering you will lose(push). This can be a handy way of addressing a car the wiggles on acceleration, or one that pushes alot on acceleration. I would suggest 30wt with a blue spring minimum from AE, with a tendancy for a stiffer spring as traction comes up and the groove forms at the track. Make small 1 turn adjustments to pre-load.
That's all for now. I'll cover, Toe-in/Toe-out next, proper shimming, radio settings/steering settings (EPA), and body basics next week.
L8R,
Greg
Also, congrats to Rick P. on TQ and the win for the Corally! Bub was a very close 2nd with his CRC, and Dan O in 3rd with a 12L4.
I helped a couple people out and got a request to post a few tips in here so here ya go. I'll add more later, but just going to cover some basics for now...
Key tip #1 - Diff Building
Learn how to build a good diff. A good diff will be smooth while still being quite secure. You check this by holding both rear tires and trying to move the gear with your thumb. With significant effort it should just move.
Key components to a good diff:
1) Good clean, undamaged bearings (most important)
2) new diff balls, ceramic are nice but spendy, normal diff balls are fine, buy in quantity since you will be checking your diff on a weekly/bi-weekly basis.
3) Diff rings. Again, buy several sets, that should last you the season. You can use both sides of the diff ring; however, the none polished side can be polished by dremel or 1000 grit sand paper.
4) Building a good thrust washer. This is often overlooked when building a diff but is also very critical to the quality of the diff build. be sure to use ample black grease and replace the balls when you replace the diff balls.
If you follow those simple steps, you'll have much better success with the performance of your 12er.
Key Tip #2 - Gear Mesh
Be sure to set your gear mesh to the high spot on the spur gear. You check this by rotating the spur gear every 3-4 teeth until you find the spot with the least gear lash. You set your mesh to that spot.
Key Tip #3 - Tire Maintenance
It is very important to clean out the tires after each run for consistancy. As far as adding tire sauce, it is important it be on your tires at least 5 mins before the race. The longer the compound sets in, the more traction (to a degree) can be achieved. Be sure to rotate the tires from side to side after the 2nd qualifier, it will help maintain their shape and keep you from trueing them before its necessary
Key Tip #4 - Tweak
Spend $30 and get a MIP tweak guage, its a critical tool for 12th scale. Tweak decribes a condition in which the rear pod under power will react differently to steering inputs from right or left. This often causes an inbalance in the car the driver can easily indentify. Often times it results in a car hooking or pulling to one side under power.
It is important to rectify and check this between rounds when you have time. Simple steps are:
1) Make sure teh tweak screws are "just" engaged to the chasis. This is important since if the screws are too far in, they will add tweak to the T-Bar.
2) Level the tweak board
3) Place car on center on board with rear of car on tilting side of balancer
4) check bubble for proper tweak, once it is in the center the tweak is set.
5) Be sure both tweak screws touch the chassis as a precaution after adjustment
IMPORTANT NOTE: When adjusting tweak, it is important to make small changes to both screw and not just one for each adjustment. This will prevent one screw from beign turned in or out too far.
Also consider that if you tweak a new car and it comes off after hitting a board tweaked, you will need to indentify where the tweak is coming from and possibly replace the part before re-setting tweak.
Key Tip #5 - Top shock
Many people have asked what adjusting the top shock does. It controls how the car reacts to on/off power. By firming the spring or adding preload, the more steering you will have as very little of the acceleration force is moved to the rear tires (causing a loose feel, car roatates harder on power). And the inverse is also true, the softer you go the more on-power steering you will lose(push). This can be a handy way of addressing a car the wiggles on acceleration, or one that pushes alot on acceleration. I would suggest 30wt with a blue spring minimum from AE, with a tendancy for a stiffer spring as traction comes up and the groove forms at the track. Make small 1 turn adjustments to pre-load.
That's all for now. I'll cover, Toe-in/Toe-out next, proper shimming, radio settings/steering settings (EPA), and body basics next week.
L8R,
Greg
Last edited by Greg Amendola; 11-21-2006 at 10:11 PM.
11-21-2006, 09:43 PM
#268
Well I'm certainly looking forward to starting onroad. Should be a lot different with no jumps. I am going to be picking up an L4 here soon and should be ready by either Tuesday or the Sunday after the coming weekend. Looking forward to racing with you all and hope that I will pick up on things fast.
James V
James V
11-21-2006, 10:14 PM
#269
Quick look under the hood of Rick's Corally SP12M AE.
Nice speedo BTW
Nice speedo BTW
11-22-2006, 02:09 AM
#270
Tech Adept
Nice turn out for the first onroad race wish i could have been there. Thanks greg for the pics and the info.Have a nice turkey day see ya scott