ScumCity1

At the rear (where the wires exit) of the motor there is room between the chassis and can but at the front (shaft end) it looks very close, which probably leads to a no for #2. I haven't taken the shaft down with a dremel yet, and I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my diffs completely. Like I said a very quick test fit.

Also what's the likelihood of me getting something like this and drilling the sleeve out to 4mm and it working, instead of shaving that shaft down? http://m.ebay.com/itm/261926496106

toddmac

the problem is that you cant guarantee that the hole will be exactly centered. at least with grinding the shaft down you can pretty much guarantee that. I shaved the shaft, pretty easy. The other problem i ran into with 5mm shafts, is that there is not enough room between the shaft and the motor mount screw holes to fit.

RC who 55

If your motor do not have an even space between the chassis,
You may have a little bend chassis, do you have a carbon top chassis plate.
Get one, it help stop the bend chassis and centre drive shaft.
If you want a little more space between the motor and chassis.
You may do this by move the outside motor mounting screw upward a little bit.
I did that for mine to use 28mm outrunner motor.
Drilling a bigger hole in a hardened pinion is not easy.
Grinding the motor shaft is more easier,
Mount the slow running motor on a long flat piece metal then use a grind stone
Flat again the motor mount metal plate to grind the motor shaft.
That will give a good 90 degree angle , do it very careful and slow,
Check the motor shaft more often so you won,t over do it .

0verkill

iTrader: (8)

I don't like the motor having a lot of contact with the chassis and I do like having a perfect mesh. A few years ago with the buggy, I had the motor shift over and it would destroy spur gears.

Are you talking about this mount? I actually have one that I won't be using, PM sent.



I haven't used those. Shaving the shaft down isn't too hard, all you need is a dremel, proper mounting position, and patience.

0verkill

iTrader: (8)

I had a few setbacks but now I finally have this thing ready.

My Hitec HS-225MG servo decided to fail, so I stole the other one from my buggy. The 12mm to 17mm hex adapters do not provide a 100% secure fitment of the larger wheel and aren't good enough for high speed use because my GRP wheels/tires were getting very wobbly at 60+ mph. They work fine for lower speeds though. So then I put on a set of 12mm hex 4" foams and it's rock steady now.

0verkill

iTrader: (8)

This thing does rolling back flips and this is not a short wheelbase car. Time for a wheelie bar.

ionizing

Hello 0verkill and everyone else. I wanted to stop in and say hello and thanks for presenting so much information in this thread (and others.) I received my mini8t in the mail today and am looking forward to modifying it. I'm 38 and this is my first Losi truck since back in the day when I raced a Jr. T. Then I was without RC for many years, then I got the urge and bought an HPI nitro Savage which I rebuilt and sold 9 years ago, only to go without RC again up until today.

With that said, I am blown away by the technology changes and am having to learn all about brushless and current best practices/tech. It won't be too difficult I hope you don't mind if I emulate your builds a little (or a lot) for my first project. I wish they sold the mini as a roller cause the electronics is the first thing I was unimpressed with.

Anyhow, thanks again for the information and I am sure I will be asking things as needed.

0verkill

iTrader: (8)

Glad to help. Yeah the technology has really changed over time. Brushless motors make tons of power, last a long time, and don't need maintenance. Lipo batteries provide tons of power, have a long run time, and can be charged very quickly. It's not hard to make one of these a little rocket ship.

0verkill

iTrader: (8)

I don't know why but I could not get the truggy to go fast in terms of top speed, the acceleration was fine though. I tried switching the motor, ESC, battery, gearing, nothing worked and it just hit a wall in the 60's. The TP motor is back in the buggy for more top speed runs because I know this car works. If everything runs right I'll try running it on 4S. My best pass on 3S was 80.9 mph.

Careyj

iTrader: (5)

Looks like fun.

spookie

iTrader: (25)

I wanted to mention, I picked up one of these kits this weekend. To tune the rear toe. Running on the street, imo, 2.5 degrees of toe in is way to much for street running. To me, that causes major tire scrub and bearing wear due to the higher traction. If I remember correctly, the Slash is 1 degree. When I get it in later this week, I'll be setting up with maybe .5 degree toe in. This allows from what I read, from -0- to at least 1.5 degrees, if not more. That much toe in, 2.5, helps the car turn into curves on the track, but to me would cause the car to become figgity on the higher traction street. Not to mention scrubbing the tires hard. Real cars have rear toein, but only maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch at the most.

Losi LOSB1899 MINI 8IGHT Rear Suspension Mount Set Aluminum
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191601545297...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

0verkill

iTrader: (8)

Some parking lot driving on 3S.

+ YouTube Video

0verkill

iTrader: (8)

FYI, if you need a new hinge pin but don't have any, you can use 3/32" piano/music wire.

spookie

iTrader: (25)

I got my toe adjustment kit in Losi LOSB1899 and installed the rear outside plate only with (#1) bushings on each side, hole towards the chassis, to pull the rearmost A-Arm pins inward. It took almost all the toe in away. Maybe a slight toein still there, ever so slightly. MUCH more stable on the street under power and took away much of the twitchyness. Rolls much farther when coasting, which tells me there is less drag. BIG thumbs up for that Losi.

PS, the kit comes with various amount of offset bushings to tune the rear toe to whatever you want.

spookie

iTrader: (25)

Nice! Can you point me to where you got those wheels and tires? Thanks