Need advice with a mini 8 setup. Trying something new
12-05-2012, 07:43 PM
#1
Need advice with a mini 8 setup. Trying something new
Hey guys was wondering if you could help me out in determining how to setup up my mini 8. I wish I could say I was was racing indoor off road carpet but that is not the case. The current "track" is a wooden gymnasium floor and the "layout" is simply an oval. It started that a few guys with mini late models were racing on Friday nights and finally enuff guys with mini 8's showed up to get a 4wd class going. At first I was running a bone stock setup with -2 degrees of camber front and rear. Car pushes real bad unless I use paragon on the tires, then if I'm not careful it traction rolls lol. I'm wondering if laying the shocks down (tops in, bottoms out) would help? Also wondering if changing the position of the camber links on the shock towers will help? Currently the front and back are both in the lower holes on the shock tower. Will moving them up a hole and readjusting help? The other question I have is about the rear hub carrier. It has two places for the camber link to attach, an inner and an outer, stock position is the outer mounting hole. Would shortening the camber link in the rear help any by moving this in to the inner hole? Below are some pictures for reference. In the pictures I have moved the shocks to the layer down position (tops in, bottoms out) and seems I should move the camber links around some to square up the geometry some. I'm looking for a high traction, LCG setup. If anybody has any input please feel free to add it in
12-05-2012, 07:50 PM
#2
This set of pictures is the rear. Remember I have the shocks layed down already. Should I move the camber link to the upper hole on the shock tower?
Here is the hub carrier I was asking about. which hole should the link be hooked to?
Here is the hub carrier I was asking about. which hole should the link be hooked to?
Last edited by 87MagnumII; 12-05-2012 at 08:09 PM.
12-05-2012, 08:08 PM
#3
This set of pics is the front. Shocks are also layed now.
Should I move this camber link into the upper hole?
Should I move this camber link into the upper hole?
12-05-2012, 08:11 PM
#4
I should also mention the front is slightly toed out. If anybody could explain the effects of the changes I'm thinking about that would be awesome. I just don't grasp what does what if you know what I mean. Or if I need to go back to stock let me know. I'm just experimenting here and need some input
12-05-2012, 08:46 PM
#5
Give this a try
Snap rolling usually occurs by either having to much tire bite and or you have to much body roll when in a turn. These are usually simple to fix.
I would advise is softening up the suspension to help lower the stance of the car and lowers the cog. But when softening you need to address body roll but running a thicker oil and you may need to run larger piston holes should solve this. This will slow the reaction time in the body roll there fore decreasing the chance of snap rolling.
You can also lower the cog of the car but adding shock travel limiters using rc silicone fuel hose on the shock shafts. I would only advise this if you are only running on flat surfaces.
Lastly a front and rear sway bar kit can help stabilize the suspension.
hope this helps.
I would advise is softening up the suspension to help lower the stance of the car and lowers the cog. But when softening you need to address body roll but running a thicker oil and you may need to run larger piston holes should solve this. This will slow the reaction time in the body roll there fore decreasing the chance of snap rolling.
You can also lower the cog of the car but adding shock travel limiters using rc silicone fuel hose on the shock shafts. I would only advise this if you are only running on flat surfaces.
Lastly a front and rear sway bar kit can help stabilize the suspension.
hope this helps.
12-05-2012, 08:47 PM
#6
Here it is with the lid on just for shits and giggles. My first attempt at carbon fiber paint scheme so don't laugh to hard.
12-06-2012, 05:22 AM
#7
the biggest improvement you can make is change tires
if your serious buy some sorex slicks to match the indoor temp, we ran indoor road course with no heat last winter
the tires were rough for about 2 laps but once they got warm it hooked up
this will also drop your ride height and lower cog, you likely wont traction roll ever. all 4wd vehicles will push its just the nature of the beast but good tires will take alot of that out
a good set of tires and probably 30-35w shock oil depending on your temps and just go drive the thing. I won almost every race last winter with mine set up that way
if your serious buy some sorex slicks to match the indoor temp, we ran indoor road course with no heat last winter
the tires were rough for about 2 laps but once they got warm it hooked up
this will also drop your ride height and lower cog, you likely wont traction roll ever. all 4wd vehicles will push its just the nature of the beast but good tires will take alot of that out
a good set of tires and probably 30-35w shock oil depending on your temps and just go drive the thing. I won almost every race last winter with mine set up that way
12-06-2012, 09:36 AM
#8
Lay the shocks down like you did and then move the camber links to the top hole front and rear for a low roll center. My mini 8ight truggy is glued to the track with that setup and 25 weight oil front and rear with black springs front and rear.
12-06-2012, 04:43 PM
#9
The RPM rod ends won't allow me to put the camber links in the top hole on the front. They bind up on the diff case and keep the suspension from operating smoothly Also went to top off my shocks with oil because they seemed to be a little low. After I added some (just below being even with the rim) I couldn't get the shock to compress and had to remove what I put in. What's the method for filling these as it appears to be different from my slash 4x4 shocks as strange as that may sound.
12-06-2012, 04:57 PM
#10
The RPM rod ends won't allow me to put the camber links in the top hole on the front. They bind up on the diff case and keep the suspension from operating smoothly Also went to top off my shocks with oil because they seemed to be a little low. After I added some (just below being even with the rim) I couldn't get the shock to compress and had to remove what I put in. What's the method for filling these as it appears to be different from my slash 4x4 shocks as strange as that may sound.
12-06-2012, 07:25 PM
#11
I have rpm ends also and I have no problem with mine. Post a picture up of what you're talking about so I can see it. Fill the shocks with oil about a 1/16 from the top and then place the bladder on and some oil will spill over then place the cap on and you should be all set. Let me know how it goes. Also make sure that when you add more oil to move the piston up and down a few times to release the air bubbles and then let the shocks sit in the upright position for atleast five minutes before you place the bladder back on. let me know how it goes. PM me anytime.
12-07-2012, 09:40 PM
#12
Took first place tonight. Fastest lap was 5.25 seconds. I ran 48 laps in both heats and 52 laps in the main. Paragon is the shit...
12-31-2012, 05:43 PM
#14
Tech Initiate
Are you running aftermarket shocks or just aluminium shock caps on the stock shocks? If so what brand are they?