Schs2013

I will try this!

Darnall

iTrader: (8)

Let us know how it worked out.

Here is some info from a previous post:

"Those look like 1/10 rods but would be cool if they are 1/16 I have not sen them and or tried those links myself. You might just try the 1/16 Rod ends on it and see if you can get to the overall length of 49mm / 50mm

Integy makes several link kits that work great. What we have done is set the front overall length to 49mm and the rear to 50mm (End of rod end to end or rod end).

Traxxas 7059 Rod Ends

Here are some of the links we have used with good luck:

- http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...7#.UKpaHIWCV8Q

- There is another set I can't find the link to. It is cool because the adjustment part is off set so you can easily adjust in the rear. Although I have never found the need to yet.

- http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...7#.UKpbFIWCV8Q This need to have the rod ends replaced with the Traxxas rod ends. For some reason (Price I assume) Integy used different ones that pop off too easily


Matt got some links off of TQ Racing's site and they are below he just used the Traxxas 1/16 rod ends and followed the same 49mm / 50mm baseline.

These are great too because the adjustment point is offset so makes the rear droop easily adjustable (With other turnbuckles it is difficult to adjust in-between the A arms."

Link to Matt's Set up page

Link to My Set up page

You can see the TLR 22 wing on the 1/16th Rally in the pic below:

Schs2013

Have any of you guys tried this diff oil combo
50K F/R 100K in center diff how did that work?

With the stiffer springs i like the car better not totally dailed but close those adjustable toe links are great!

TeamThibault

have a few q's
can some one post more info on the droop. all the pics on my computer dont come up so could some one post some pics

how much difference is the big block chassis to vxl? does the center of grav. change that much( higher ) ? I have a duratrax element combo to use would that be the same power in corners?
what pitch are the gears ( spur & pinion ) and what sizes do the spurs come in?

do you guys change all the ball links?
how well do the stock shocks work?

what dif oils would be good for onroad? and center dif?

Schs2013

For the testing i have done start off with the adjustable toe links this will help set toein and give some suspension adjustablity.
2. Work with your shocks and springs. My current set up is 3.2pink 1/16 summit springs with shock oil of 100WT. This elminate alot of droop that comes on stock setup.im also tring the Upgrade shocks traxxas offers, in my opinion the stock ones will not hold shock oil weight higher than 25WT

3. Centre Diff is optional it help distribute the VXL power more evenly the slipper setup. I will be doing some testing with different diff weights.

Hope this helps you

djfourmoney

I have posted in the Vaterra thread as well about the Kemora.

With a FPV Ground Project in-mind, I wanted to know is it worth getting the 1/16 Fiesta?

By the end of the month I can score a couple of Amazon $25 Gift Cards ($50) putting the final price of the Fiesta at around $100 or I can keep going and get $100 in cards sometime in Feb.

In any event, I wanted to know like I said is it worth getting; for one thing the AM radio just won't do and I would have two AM radio systems here with decreasing value by the day.

The stock drivetrain looks to be fine, put a 2S lipo in it and 30 mph + is easily attained.

My major concern is handling. I plan on treating this like a typical rally car, it must perform well on dirt, damp pavement and dry pavement. To take advantage of FPV the most (5.8Ghz), I will be taking it to local park with dirt and paved hiking/bike/mountain bike trails. No big jumps, so I can keep the CG low by keeping the overall ride height near stock, possibly raised a bit to perform better over ruts created by mountain bikes.

• Do I really need to upgrade to GTR shocks?
• Beyond the suggested upgrading the shock oil, diff oils and ball bearings; is there anything else?
• What version of the TQi radio would you suggest?

Thanks

Schs2013

are you bashing or racing?

First if possible try a Buddies 1/16 see if you like it before you shell the cash out.

2- steering servo from traxxas is weak and slow i did a 10$ upgrade to a Hitec servo MG85 (i cant remember on top of my head what number)

3- Get a 2.4Ghz the TQI line is good the best one has the Ipod/Iphone docking base in my opinion i have found Spectrum work great as well i am now using the DX3C with a SR3100 no issues just make sure to trim the little fin off the ESC and Servo leads if you want a after market RX/TX

3- wheels/tires find what works best for your application but if you want a specific tire combo i would go with Proline Dirthawgs by the tread design it should work well for the serface you mentioned.

4- Shocks/shock oil/Springs depending on how you want it to handle stock shock oil (40wt) is good. GTR shocks are not needed right away use it till the break or feel like upgrading. Springs the stock springs are in my opinion way to soft I would suggest 3.2 rated springs, this is my opinion only.
again if possible try a stock/demo from any local hobby shops or from a buddy

This is the best advice i can honestly tell you, good luck with the FPV.

djfourmoney

1) I wouldn't call it bashing. I want to recreate actual WRC/IRC style rallies but not be forced to follow the car every few feet. That's why I would employ a FPV system. I can sit down pretty much anywhere and not have to depend on LOS to see the model. There's a very popular thread on the RC Groups forums where some members of easily gone 1/2 mile away from where they were operating the car from -

+ YouTube Video

I am still trying to work out of 5.8Ghz will be fine. It doesn't require a HAM radio license to operate, but it tends to work best LOS (Light of Sight) and while the park I plan to run it at is pretty wide open, there are places where there is heavy brush and trees. This would obscure the view from the transmitter to the receiver and cause problems with the video link (possibly).

2) I read about upgrading the servo which I have also heard suggested by other reviews of the Ken Block version of the car and the Boss 302.

3) I've seen some TQi's with the dock for $100 used ($135 new), seems reasonable. The FlySky powered by Android runs about $149, plus whatever it is for sensors, so I hope on average the TQi's don't cost more than that.

4) I would likely run sedan tires, not "truck" tires. The HPI Rally tires are much softer than the Tamiya rally block tires and they offer a few different tread patterns. Even the discontinued Pirelli branded HPI Rally tires are still available.

5) I understood upgrading the shock oil, but I've seen more extreme viscosity of oils being used on these cars in older post on this thread. It seems even with 40wt oil or higher it still seems under dampen.

I want to eliminate traction rolling. Its something I've never experienced in an R/C car before. Understeer yes, but not rolling over...

But given all the information I have seen and the cost of upgrading, this car might not be a worthy investment.

• $100 for the car
• $125 (Coupon Code) for the Radio or $100 Used
• Springs and Shock Oil ($15)
• HPI "Pirelli" Rally Tires and Wheels ($40)
• Ken Block Wing ($10)

That's already way over what the Kyosho EP Fazer Subaru WRC rally car goes for at A-Main ($189) Readyset, just needs some batteries and a charger.

I can also use the semi-assembled TT-02, set it up for Rally (raise the ride height), get a body I want (Evo X or Subaru) + shocks + bearings for about $225 and comes with a 2.4Ghz radio as well.

Again thank for the input...

Schs2013

I think your best bet would to go with the Kyosho you mentioned or the HPI as they are 1/8 scale versus the 1/16 scale traxxas.
I don't rally but i think its a good starting point.

I started aout with the Mustang BOSS 302 i am working the shocks still for ashuplt racing but they are better bashers than anything else in my opinion and not to say you can not race,rally or anything but it will take some cash to perform exactly as you as want.
The body rolling i have solved with 3.2/4.2 rated springs

djfourmoney

So you're running 3.2 on the front and 4.2 on the back with the shock oil weight you mentioned before and it eliminated the body roll (which turns in traction rolling)?

I was just re-watching the video that URC (Jang) did and he upgraded the Boss 302 with heavier oil and springs too, still rolled too much, became disenchanted and sold it.

I like challenged however... I've just never messed with diffs and center diffs before, not that I am concerned about it.

The HPI 1/8 scales are WAY out of my budget ($530).... The Kyosho 1/9's are just about $409, still more than I want to spend.

As it is with FPV; the camera is $90 (cheap for an HD keychain that can record AND live out at the same time) and the Tx/Rx (5.8Ghz) run about $60-$80.

That just about $400 total and still don't know how I am going to view the image coming back from the car (goggles or monitor?) and I would like to upgrade to Lipo as well.

Not to mention I don't wanna beat up the rally tires driving on pavement, so that's another $40 for some HPI wheels and Radials.

Lots of things to consider...

Schs2013

Current set up is 3.2 rated springs front and rear improves the less body roll. Current shock oil is 40wt f/r. I think the urc video jang did was good but i wont take his word on it if you see box stock video of the 1/16 its a canvas for what you want to do. Lipo 2s will work good. With vxl brushless system. Tires for pavement have a different set laying around from there it would be more trail en error till you found the right set up for you.
Gearing is stock

Schs2013

Would any of you recommend gearing the VXL system with a 25/45 or would that be overkill for this car?
with 2s 220mAh in parallel

Schs2013

You talk about adding 1oz of lead under the transmission, what size of lead(brand)i am using to stock chassis.
I am in canada so i will eiather order it or something like that.

Marc

TZona

iTrader: (26)

is anyone using the ken block still? what lipos and what brushless setups on the cheap

Darnall

iTrader: (8)

Hey Marc,
Matt just used RC lead weight you can get at most hobby and craft stores. Something similar to this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXK204&P=8

Yes we are still racing them from time to time. I still have 6 of them and are a blast still think the best bang for your buck although the converted 1/10 Rally (GT8) is much simpler to set up and drive.

For the 1/16th We're using the stock set up with stock batteries or the Nano Tech Batteries. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=20391

A few guys have tried the Castle conversion to the bigger motors but the higher CG and more weight actually hurt them in the corners and could not get them to keep from flipping over.