Xray m18 question
09-21-2010, 11:15 AM
#16
Hi guys,
I know the discussion on this thread is centered around LiPOs. However, since we're talking about batteries for the M18 I would like to ask a question about NiMH cells.
I'm new to the 1/18 scale micro cars. I'm currently testing/running a M18 Pro with the Dynamte Fuze 1/18th 7000Kv ESC/motor combo with a 5 cell NiMH battery pack. From what I've read on this board it appears that I'm experiencing an issue with cogging. I don't believe it's glitching because when I run my car on the stand with a LiPO pack (that I use for my 1/10 TC) the problem goes away. Also, I can reproduce the problem with the car on the stand with my Tx with a couple of inches from the Rx when using the 5 cell pack.
For an upcoming race (ALS Charity Race) I have a need to run a 5 cell pack (no LiPO rule). I'm looking for recommendation on some cells that are relatively cheap but will get the job done. What are you guys running?
Thanks.
John
I know the discussion on this thread is centered around LiPOs. However, since we're talking about batteries for the M18 I would like to ask a question about NiMH cells.
I'm new to the 1/18 scale micro cars. I'm currently testing/running a M18 Pro with the Dynamte Fuze 1/18th 7000Kv ESC/motor combo with a 5 cell NiMH battery pack. From what I've read on this board it appears that I'm experiencing an issue with cogging. I don't believe it's glitching because when I run my car on the stand with a LiPO pack (that I use for my 1/10 TC) the problem goes away. Also, I can reproduce the problem with the car on the stand with my Tx with a couple of inches from the Rx when using the 5 cell pack.
For an upcoming race (ALS Charity Race) I have a need to run a 5 cell pack (no LiPO rule). I'm looking for recommendation on some cells that are relatively cheap but will get the job done. What are you guys running?
Thanks.
John
BTW, 7000kv is going to be wayyyy to much for the ALS track
I plan on running 3000-4000kv at the most, that should tell you something The motor KV isnt really related to cogging, its the overall setup (batt, esc, connections, etc)
09-21-2010, 11:44 AM
#17
John, you also may not want to rule out the ESC itself being the cause of the issue. From my experience working in GB, just about every fuze system ive seen is very jumpy and tends to cog a little. Ive never seen any problems out of Castle/Tekin systems on 5 cells. You can try gearing down, and see if that helps. Also, turn down any timing in the ESC.
BTW, 7000kv is going to be wayyyy to much for the ALS track I plan on running 3000-4000kv at the most, that should tell you something The motor KV isnt really related to cogging, its the overall setup (batt, esc, connections, etc)
BTW, 7000kv is going to be wayyyy to much for the ALS track
I plan on running 3000-4000kv at the most, that should tell you something The motor KV isnt really related to cogging, its the overall setup (batt, esc, connections, etc)I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the the motor size, battery pack, and gearing combination. I'll pick up a motor in the 3000-4000Kv range. I'm having a hard time finding the Team Scream Racing's 1350 mAh LiPo. I did find the 1800 hard pack and the 1300 packs online. I'll also turn down the timing on the ESC and check the gearing. If it ends up being an ESC issue I guess I'll have to get a new one. The cogging makes is nearly impossible to get any rhythm when driving.
I may just race my Mini-Z for the ALS event. Hopefully, I'll have the electronics sorted out for the East Coast Championship race.
It's too bad you guys stopped racing micros at GB. It would've been nice to turn some laps with you guys.
-John
09-21-2010, 11:57 AM
#18
Hey Mike,
I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the the motor size, battery pack, and gearing combination. I'll pick up a motor in the 3000-4000Kv range. I'm having a hard time finding the Team Scream Racing's 1350 mAh LiPo. I did find the 1800 hard pack and the 1300 packs online. I'll also turn down the timing on the ESC and check the gearing. If it ends up being an ESC issue I guess I'll have to get a new one. The cogging makes is nearly impossible to get any rhythm when driving.
I may just race my Mini-Z for the ALS event. Hopefully, I'll have the electronics sorted out for the East Coast Championship race.
It's too bad you guys stopped racing micros at GB. It would've been nice to turn some laps with you guys.
-John
I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the the motor size, battery pack, and gearing combination. I'll pick up a motor in the 3000-4000Kv range. I'm having a hard time finding the Team Scream Racing's 1350 mAh LiPo. I did find the 1800 hard pack and the 1300 packs online. I'll also turn down the timing on the ESC and check the gearing. If it ends up being an ESC issue I guess I'll have to get a new one. The cogging makes is nearly impossible to get any rhythm when driving.
I may just race my Mini-Z for the ALS event. Hopefully, I'll have the electronics sorted out for the East Coast Championship race.
It's too bad you guys stopped racing micros at GB. It would've been nice to turn some laps with you guys.
-John
The lipo packs I run are Team Psycho Cells, not Team Scream. Our site is not fully functional yet, but if you ever need anything you can pm Tim Haskins (s/n Psycho_Man here on rctech) and we can get you set up. We dont do nimh anymore if you need that, but for the ALS power is about #7 on the list of potential race losing problems hahaha. Its 1/18 cars on a Mini Z track, so wall bumping is the biggest problem
It definitely sounds to me like the ESC more than anything else. The fuze systems are cheap, but I have been unimpressed with their performance thus far. Ive had nothing but butter smooth performance with Castle stuff, and Robbie's Tekin stuff always looks good as well. You can also try gearing way down as well, it will help get it rolling, and if there is a start power option, turn that up as well.
I miss the old indoor GB track as well, it was good times. At least Jim's isnt too far away from GB (about an hour), and if Middle River opens, there will surely be some micro action there
09-21-2010, 06:44 PM
#19
I also have a an Xray m18 pro I just built not sure what I have to do to get it set up to run. I have to put some Grease where the ball diffs sit and I need to put the bigger spur on. Plus I don't understand the the top deck thing and the car tilts. Maybe I'll bring it up to my LHS and see if they can help me. The ride hight thing is new to me to with the set screws. I was thinking of getting the Mamba Micro pro or the Micro Sidewinder for it.
Last edited by phathedrc18t; 09-21-2010 at 08:01 PM.
09-22-2010, 01:09 PM
#20
I also have a an Xray m18 pro I just built not sure what I have to do to get it set up to run. I have to put some Grease where the ball diffs sit and I need to put the bigger spur on. Plus I don't understand the the top deck thing and the car tilts. Maybe I'll bring it up to my LHS and see if they can help me. The ride hight thing is new to me to with the set screws. I was thinking of getting the Mamba Micro pro or the Micro Sidewinder for it.
Per the upper deck. Backing out the side screws 1/4 turn (of the side screws always keep the center tight) will make the front or rear end more flexy. Which changes the cars feel between its traction and steering amount.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=1912
There is the series of slides showing the effects of each and how they effect steering/traction.
Between the sidewinder or micro pro. Go with the pro. Simply because its smaller and easier to put in.
09-22-2010, 05:20 PM
#21
Not sure what you are saying with "ball diffs sit" and grease. Are you saying you put some gear grease on the bevel gears of the drive and ball diff gear? As long as you use gear grease and just a tiny bit. Shouldnt be an issue. Though I would recommend then putting a piece of tape to cover the bottom hole to seal the diff from dirt.
Per the upper deck. Backing out the side screws 1/4 turn (of the side screws always keep the center tight) will make the front or rear end more flexy. Which changes the cars feel between its traction and steering amount.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=1912
There is the series of slides showing the effects of each and how they effect steering/traction.
Between the sidewinder or micro pro. Go with the pro. Simply because its smaller and easier to put in.
Per the upper deck. Backing out the side screws 1/4 turn (of the side screws always keep the center tight) will make the front or rear end more flexy. Which changes the cars feel between its traction and steering amount.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=1912
There is the series of slides showing the effects of each and how they effect steering/traction.
Between the sidewinder or micro pro. Go with the pro. Simply because its smaller and easier to put in.
Yeah I was talking about the bevel gears. I haven't put any in yet. and Thanx for the slide I'll check it out.
09-24-2010, 05:04 PM
#22
will a novak mongoose esc fit in the M18, and will the novak Three80 motor fit the mount?
09-24-2010, 05:25 PM
#23
They will, but it is not the most ideal combo for the M18
09-24-2010, 06:53 PM
#24
whats a good servo the one i have is to small.
09-24-2010, 09:18 PM
#25
Whats your budget? If you meant the xray servo saver wont fit the smaller spline you can make an adapter with a servo horn, dremel on low, and CA.
09-25-2010, 04:36 AM
#26
The actual servo. I have the Hitech MG 65 and its to small.
09-25-2010, 06:54 AM
#27
Mike Gee and I use the JR SM22. It is a small servo that allows for allot of room to put things like the transponder between it and the motor. It also has the bigger spine to use the Xray servo saver. It it also very inexpensive. The only thing I have debated is that with the new super small transponders, I could get away with using a slighlty larger servo with more torque. But for now the JR SM22 is what I use.
Tim "Psycho Man" Haskins
Tim "Psycho Man" Haskins
09-25-2010, 09:38 AM
#28
09-25-2010, 02:43 PM
#29
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