Cheezburger

iTrader: (2)

Does anybody else think someone should release a better 1/18 Touring Car? I've seen the options and there's always lots of cons that keep me from buying any of them. I'll list what i think of common 1/18 Touring Cars:

HPI Micro RS4
Pros: Huge aftermarket parts, highly customizable, True 1/18th size (Fits plenty of bodies)
Cons: Complicated chassis, belt driven (Doesn't seem as rugged as shaft and pain in the butt to take apart), Odd suspension system, No battery strap or hold downs

Duratrax Vendetta TC
Pros: "Standard" chassis design (Similar to 1/10), Full Size servo, Shaft driven
Cons: Not Standard 1/18th size (Only one body available), Uses odd sized motor, Not many aftermarket parts

Xray TC
Pros: Best Chassis design (In my opinion), True 1/18th size (Fits plenty of bodies)
Cons: Bit more expensive than other 1/18th, Harder to find (Both kit and parts)

If HPI would release a new Micro RS4 with shaft drive and independent suspension at a decent price, i'd be all over it.

oXYnary

iTrader: (4)

Alien Power M18 Meets Rs4.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/micro-mi...tc-teaser.html

xrayzone

Xrays are worth the $! They handle very well and are very durable.

Cheezburger

iTrader: (2)

Actually now that i think about it, the xray m18 sounds pretty sweet haha. Can the HPI Micro RS4 bodies fit on it?

1320VR4

iTrader: (15)

The micro rs4 can be an amazing car with the right mods. I have a penguin chassis, all my electronics are balanced left to right perfectly. Handles excellent on the carpet (given the fact its brushless and stupid fast)



My dad has an M18 with (now) a reedy 17t motor. It handles superb.


Stock for stock the M18 kills the MRS4 100x over. Thats based on experience of the two

Cheezburger

iTrader: (2)

Yea the m18 looks really good right about now, i think i might get it. Except I found a pretty major flaw about it though, the stock chassis seems to only fit 4-5cell batteries. I'd have to buy a $50+ chassis just to fit a 6 cell... See what i mean about these major flaws for each car?

punkboy

Are you planning to race? If so, do you plan to race stock or mod? If you plan to race stock, most places only race 5 cell nimh. If you plan to race mod, I'd strongly suggest a lipo pack.

6 cells have actually faded away in 1/18 TC racing. The cars are better balanced with 5 cells or a lipo.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

If you get a current kit the pro chassis has 6 slots not 5.

I would disagree w/ other's comments on the m18 pro. If you look at the Micro Nats results all the podium finishers were Exotek chassis, and all of them ran GPM adjustable shocks.

I run an Exotek chassis and GPM shocks, just about everyone at my track runs an aftermarket chassis (Penguin or Exotek/Motek) and part of the reason for that are shortcomings in the stock chasis in steering geometry and other areas.

The M18 is a solid car and can run well in stock form, better in pro form but to be truly competitive the SR3 is the way to go.

Once the Raptor arrives you'll see them on the podium instead of the M18 . <== yes that was a shameless plug ahhaha.

duneland

M18 pro will accept a 6 cell. Problem is, it does not ballance out very well with 6 cell 2/3 pack. Works great with 5. If you want more performance than that, go LiPo.

smarking1212

iTrader: (73)

I will never sell my xray m18t pro, but finding the parts is another story. I wish I had $70 to just go get all aluminum hubs, and arms.

Hide

iTrader: (8)

How about this one? I know its hard for you US guys to get, but it looks like a winner.

Cheezburger

iTrader: (2)

Well i plan on just screwin around in the tennis court across the street from my house or racing with my friend at the parking lot. How do the Lipo batteries fit into the stock chassis? Don't you need some sort of special hold down?

punkboy

You may want to look into something a little larger. The M18's and cars of that size are great on super smooth surfaces, but most parking lots aren't that smooth. You might be okay on the tennis court though.

For Lipo batteries most of the racers use strapping tape, and that is probably the best route to go. some have used the stock battery hold down but flipped the strap so the flat side is down, then place a thick piece of foam between the battery and the strap so it puts pressure on the battery. Even with this method, I would still suggest using some tape, possibly on the strap if you wish to remove the pack after you run.

If you don't mind it being somewhat permanent . . . I've used servo tape to hold my lipo down in the past. The neat thing about that is it looks super clean since there is no strap and no tape. But it's quite a pain when you go to remove the pack to charge it in a Lipo Sack at a big race

punkboy

This car would probably be okay for a parking lot since it has more adjustability and looks to have greater potential for more ride height. If you set the M18 too high it affects the angle of the arms, etc and can cause it to handle poorly. Plus it would most likely be real high and stiff, so it'd just want to tip over a lot.

punkboy

True, the majority of the cars in the A at the Micro Nats were an exotek chassis of some sort, and of course the SR3 was born that weekend. I thought it was Atomic that made the threaded bodies that most ppl used though (plastic threaded bodies) IIRC, the GPM shocks are the alum. oil filled ones and aren't really that great.

I'm interested to see what this Raptor can do. It is definitely great to see some brand competition again in micro racing. You will see that this will help motivate Xray to work on their car. Might even see some new goodies for next season