hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

Hey guys I just picked up a used Vendetta ST. It appears to be in great shape (pics later today) but I really want to get some different wheels and tires for the offroad track as well as as some new electronics eventhough I haven't even ran it yet. I was just wondering what you guys would suggest I get for the following:

Wheels & Tires
Motor
ESC (Brushless System)
Servo


I will get a few pics on here later today when I am back out in the shop. Please share any and all advice that you will. Thanks, H

oldschoolracer

Wheels & Tires = stock ones seem to work fine, though there are a few factory options
Motor + ESC (Brushless System) = Novak Mongoose, only BL system that will fit and meets the needs of the DTX lineup
Servo = stock one is made by futaba and works just fine

hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

Thanks for the reply. I just hate how the stock wheels are held on by a screw rather than a nut like most. I was hoping to change that if I could come up with something different. So the Novak Mongoose is the way to go huh?

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

You can get steel cvds that use the axle (threaded shaft) to secure your wheels. If your ST still has the plastic cvd s you can thread in a long 3mm machine screw then cut off the head and you have an axle....

If you do not want a sensored BL system you can install a Castle Creations 1/10 sidewinder w a sensorless motor of your choice. Maybe a Nue or an Ammo and if you can find one a Multiplex...

jaejw1

vendetta videos.. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5684344/tm.htm

motor review
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5643067/tm.htm

tire review
www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6000527/tm.htm

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

Yes, the wheel screws are lame - they will either strip out, or you'll have prob losing wheels cause they're not as tight as needed. No real cheap fix unless you're will to mod the wheel end of the cvd. Take cvd apart and use drill for tapping to 3mm, drill all way thru, buy 3mm studs, and screw them all the way in. I forget how long they need to be, but you need 7-8mm sticking out beyond the wheel hex. The 3mm stud causes the flats to bulge slightly and you dremel this down to fit hex, then just need to drill a hole in hex big enough to fit, add a washer and 3mm nyloc nut and you're done, no more wood screws for wheels, studs like an xray uses, way better.

The PB conversion kit has another option - those cvds ends are set up to use a dtx smooth stud thats pinned into cvd and has a 2.6mm threaded end to use the nyloc wheel nuts included with kit. If you can get the studs, pins and cvd ends by themselves prob the least expensive option. What I don't care for is they are way too long and they require a diff wrench, 5mm. Shortcoming is you still have plastic cvds. They've been fine for my buggy onroad, but if you're jumping, prob won't last. The steel ones use a threaded 2.6mm screw which can be converted to a stud easy enough, but they're pricey.

I've run a Mamba 25 without issue using either a CoolRed 3500kv heli motor, a GH4700, Hyperion 5000 long can motor and now a Permax. They all work well, are 2.3mm shafts and will use stock pinions. My ST is running a Permax with a Quark 33a Procar esc, another system that's working fine. They are not hard to install or set up.

Using stock servo so far, haven't seen need to change it. Buggy is run mostly onroad (tennis coourts, concrete) and I run HPI Star Wheels and HPI radials. The ST has a set of XTM Rage wheels, tires and inserts at the moment and those seem great for onroad - maybe touch hard elsewhere.

jaejw1

if those treads werent so hard... the tires would be awesome for racing... i keep sending emails to xtm about this matter..

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

They work great on 130F concrete though! I expect they'll let me see how good of a drifter the ST is when it cools off here, lol. They are def hard, but at least they're cheap, lol!!

jaejw1

yeah when the ground is hot.. the coeffecient of friction is much higher.. allow for acceleration factor to be increased..

but on a dirt track,, i had a hard time finding traction with them... but on a softer powdery dirt they should work awesome..

hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

I still haven't done anything with this truck as I am not sure I want to spend that much more money just to see if I like 1/18th scale racing.

Is there some options that I could try without spending $2-300?

I was also wondering if I could use a 1/10 CC Sidewinder ESC? The reason I ask is because I already have one. Thanks

jaejw1

yes you can.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh7OJ751Vt4

hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

So that is with this motor right?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLWY1&P=7

jaejw1

yep..

hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

Ok guys I just picked up a Novak Mongoose 8.5 system with all of the pinion options. I still have quite a few more parts to get but I am just not sure what to get first. I have listed a few things below that I would like to eventually have but I will not be getting them all at once simply because I am not even sure I will like 1/18th as the small stuff is all new to me. I would like to see if someone would put them in order from top to bottom based on necessity. In other words if you were planning to buy the below mentioned items which would you buy first and so on.


Threaded Steel CVD's F&R
Ball Diffs F&R
Servo hold down kit
Alloy wing mount
Steel hinge pin for rear
Alloy hinge pin for front



I have to buy a new set of wheels and tires as the ones I have are shot. I plan to buy the stock wheels (if they work with CVD's?) and a set of D-Bars. I also want to get a new body to paint along with a different wing but those two can wait until I am sure I like this thing. Please let me know what you guys think about the above list. Changes? Thanks for the help guys. I will be sure to get a few pics posted when I am done.

RCabcs

Yikes, that's a lotta motor - even novak only recommends that one for speed runs only. it's going to be blazingly fast. I have a 10.5, really fast, but got a 13.5 for racing and it's quite enough.


Threaded Steel CVD's F&R = definately
Ball Diffs F&R = definately, especially running BL
Servo hold down kit = possibly, but you can further secure the servo by putting a dab of shoo-goo glue on the sides and rear of it
Alloy wing mount = good way to break the rear shock tower/wing
Steel hinge pin for rear = they're already steel, don't know what part you're referencing. if you're talking about the bracket, yes, get the alloy 3-degree toe-in model. steel's not needed
Alloy hinge pin for front = are you talking about the bracket?


stock wheels work fine with cvd's, I run D-bars in the rear and stockers in the front