The BRP Thread, 1/18 stock and mod. national champs
12-11-2007, 01:15 PM
#31
Since we're sharing. Here is my GTP for the V2M. Currently working on a '02 Terry Labonte Cheez-it Monte C.
Micro - That Sirrus looks real good.
Micro - That Sirrus looks real good.
12-12-2007, 05:14 AM
#32
Tech Regular
Very nice! Don
12-12-2007, 11:48 AM
#33
your funny wayne that a littel to far to do when the birds and our january jam are comming up but if you feel the need to come up for a race we have our january jam the 11,12,13 and we are running minis
12-18-2007, 11:19 AM
#35
yes we will if you bring it we will run it
12-18-2007, 05:01 PM
#37
Tech Adept
12-18-2007, 05:01 PM
#38
Tech Adept
12-18-2007, 05:02 PM
#39
Tech Adept
12-29-2007, 06:41 AM
#42
Tech Rookie
My BRP Story....
OK I will admit it, I have always thought the BRP was ugly, cheap, and homemade. I loved my Micro RS4, and enjoyed all the aftermarket goodies for it. At my local track we have a good 1/18th scale following. We have 20-30 people every other Sunday race 1/18th. We all started with the Micro RS4s, and when the Mini-T and RC18T came out, we all had to have one! Once again the aftermarket parts were a plenty! Recently when the Scalpel came out, a lot of racers got them, including me. Once again it was a race to see who could get the best aftermarket parts. I took a step back and looked at my Micro RS4, Mini-T, and RC18T and realized I had more $ in them then my 1/10th and 1/12th!
I was reading some other posts and see a lot of reviews on how inexpensive the BRP is, and that it has no aftermarket parts. I was also reading how well they performed and the great customer support. So I decided to get one. I called BRP and talked to Bud (the guy who makes the car) and was really impressed with him and the time he spent with me on the phone (for anyone that has tried to call HPI, can see why I would be shocked!). Bud sent me the SC-18V2M Racer complete with 370 motor and Team Scream matched 1500s it was $120.00 shipped!
When I got the kit I was a little disappointed that the directions were hard to follow, and had few pictures. But once I got to the track all was forgiven. I was two laps faster than my best run with the Scalpel the first time I put it on the track. By the end of the night, I had won the A Main by 3 seconds my best finish was 3rd in the A Main all other nights! I could not believe it 1st in the A Main, and thats without changing anything on the car, or adjusting the chassis.
Sorry about the long post, but I am so excited to have a car that ran great out of the box!
Now for you BRP racers I have some questions:
1. What lube do you use on the kingpins? I used 100 wt silicon, but think I may need more dampening.
2. I noticed that there is a bumper available, and that some racers use it for the front body mounts I dont like the servo mount how does the bumper work?
3. My rear axel is a little tight in the bushings. What do you guys use as lube? Do you polish the rear axel?
4. The black spacer on the rear axel how much play do you have in it? I noticed that when I put the rear tire on and but it up against the black spacer the axel was not smooth.
5. The kit came with purple rear tires. I run on a high bite carpet road course is their a harder rear tire?
6. What weight oil do you use in the rear pod? I tried 50, but think that may be too much?
7. Are their other front springs? I have the silver I think Bud said they were soft?
8. Are their different T-Plates?
Any tips would help!
If you have not tried the BRP I would give it a chance!
OK I will admit it, I have always thought the BRP was ugly, cheap, and homemade. I loved my Micro RS4, and enjoyed all the aftermarket goodies for it. At my local track we have a good 1/18th scale following. We have 20-30 people every other Sunday race 1/18th. We all started with the Micro RS4s, and when the Mini-T and RC18T came out, we all had to have one! Once again the aftermarket parts were a plenty! Recently when the Scalpel came out, a lot of racers got them, including me. Once again it was a race to see who could get the best aftermarket parts. I took a step back and looked at my Micro RS4, Mini-T, and RC18T and realized I had more $ in them then my 1/10th and 1/12th!
I was reading some other posts and see a lot of reviews on how inexpensive the BRP is, and that it has no aftermarket parts. I was also reading how well they performed and the great customer support. So I decided to get one. I called BRP and talked to Bud (the guy who makes the car) and was really impressed with him and the time he spent with me on the phone (for anyone that has tried to call HPI, can see why I would be shocked!). Bud sent me the SC-18V2M Racer complete with 370 motor and Team Scream matched 1500s it was $120.00 shipped!
When I got the kit I was a little disappointed that the directions were hard to follow, and had few pictures. But once I got to the track all was forgiven. I was two laps faster than my best run with the Scalpel the first time I put it on the track. By the end of the night, I had won the A Main by 3 seconds my best finish was 3rd in the A Main all other nights! I could not believe it 1st in the A Main, and thats without changing anything on the car, or adjusting the chassis.
Sorry about the long post, but I am so excited to have a car that ran great out of the box!
Now for you BRP racers I have some questions:
1. What lube do you use on the kingpins? I used 100 wt silicon, but think I may need more dampening.
2. I noticed that there is a bumper available, and that some racers use it for the front body mounts I dont like the servo mount how does the bumper work?
3. My rear axel is a little tight in the bushings. What do you guys use as lube? Do you polish the rear axel?
4. The black spacer on the rear axel how much play do you have in it? I noticed that when I put the rear tire on and but it up against the black spacer the axel was not smooth.
5. The kit came with purple rear tires. I run on a high bite carpet road course is their a harder rear tire?
6. What weight oil do you use in the rear pod? I tried 50, but think that may be too much?
7. Are their other front springs? I have the silver I think Bud said they were soft?
8. Are their different T-Plates?
Any tips would help!
If you have not tried the BRP I would give it a chance!
12-29-2007, 09:40 AM
#43
Glad you liked it! I hear the same thing you said alot.. cheap, ugly, no aftermarket stuff. I say, do you want to spend money or win 
To answere your questions;
1. I use 30,000 wt on my kingpins, polish them first and make sure the stearing block is free moving on them.
2. I don't use the bumper, I bought an extra pair of body mounts and put them on the screws that are next to the stearing blocks.
3. I polished my rear axle and super glue the bushings in place. I put my axle in when gluing the bushings in to find a nice free spot. Then I put some polishing compound on the axle and spin the axle in the bushings after the glue has set. I don't use any lube.
4. I removed the black spacer and put a few shims there then added an 1/8" ID aluminum collar that has a 4/40 set screw. That will hold the rear end play better and prevent the tire from moving in on a wall shot. I believe Bud sells these along with a thrust bearing to ride against the bushing.
5.Bud has green rears which are harder.
6.I start with 100wt. on the dampening plates and if i need more stearing 3,000 wt.
7. The silver front springs are the best. Bud may have progressive orange, but I'm not sure.
8. Talk to bud about the t-plates. We have tried some with no slot in it. It depends on the track.
The only thing you may want to try to gain some corner speed is to add some camber or add a .02" shim under the front of the t-plate. If you have any other questions just yell!!
-Wayne
To answere your questions;1. I use 30,000 wt on my kingpins, polish them first and make sure the stearing block is free moving on them.
2. I don't use the bumper, I bought an extra pair of body mounts and put them on the screws that are next to the stearing blocks.
3. I polished my rear axle and super glue the bushings in place. I put my axle in when gluing the bushings in to find a nice free spot. Then I put some polishing compound on the axle and spin the axle in the bushings after the glue has set. I don't use any lube.
4. I removed the black spacer and put a few shims there then added an 1/8" ID aluminum collar that has a 4/40 set screw. That will hold the rear end play better and prevent the tire from moving in on a wall shot. I believe Bud sells these along with a thrust bearing to ride against the bushing.
5.Bud has green rears which are harder.
6.I start with 100wt. on the dampening plates and if i need more stearing 3,000 wt.
7. The silver front springs are the best. Bud may have progressive orange, but I'm not sure.
8. Talk to bud about the t-plates. We have tried some with no slot in it. It depends on the track.
The only thing you may want to try to gain some corner speed is to add some camber or add a .02" shim under the front of the t-plate. If you have any other questions just yell!!
-Wayne
12-31-2007, 05:22 AM
#44
Tech Rookie
Wayne - THANK YOU!
Sunday was my best run ever! Took the A Main by 4 laps! My fellow racers (especially the guys who always come in 1st or 2nd) are now making me remove my wing what a bunch of
babies!
A few more questions:
1. I am using a micro servo. With my new speed, it may not be fast enough - what servo do you use?
2. Can you adjust the rear ride height?
3. My diff rings keep spinning - do you glue them?
Thanks again -
Sunday was my best run ever! Took the A Main by 4 laps! My fellow racers (especially the guys who always come in 1st or 2nd) are now making me remove my wing what a bunch of
babies! A few more questions:
1. I am using a micro servo. With my new speed, it may not be fast enough - what servo do you use?
2. Can you adjust the rear ride height?
3. My diff rings keep spinning - do you glue them?
Thanks again -
12-31-2007, 06:02 AM
#45
Great run!! There have been other tracks that don't like the BRP wings don't feel bad. To answere your questions:
1. I use a futaba servo, I believe it's the s9650 (it's the only digital futaba 1/12 servo) Use a servo saver and mount the ball stud in the lowest middle position.
2. No rear ride hight adjustment. With stock tires, 1.40" OD and a .02" shim under the front of the t-plate you should have approx. 4mm-4.5mm clearance in the rear. The tires only wear .010" on a weekend of running.
3. Definately glue the rings. Ruff up the surfaces being glued with some sandpaper. (rings, axle, plastic diff. spacer.) Don't assemble untill fully dried. If the diff. feels sticky or as if it may be rubbing plastic make sure the diff. ball holes are free, balls should drop in. Make sure the spur gear adaptor isn't rubbing on the flange side of the axle. Have the spacer flush or .01" pushed in on 1 side of the gear. The plastic diff. diff spacer has clearance for the gear adaptor. Lastly, you can add a slightly larger chamfer to the diff side rim where the 1/8" id flanged bearing goes to assure the bearings race clears.
good luck,
Wayne
1. I use a futaba servo, I believe it's the s9650 (it's the only digital futaba 1/12 servo) Use a servo saver and mount the ball stud in the lowest middle position.
2. No rear ride hight adjustment. With stock tires, 1.40" OD and a .02" shim under the front of the t-plate you should have approx. 4mm-4.5mm clearance in the rear. The tires only wear .010" on a weekend of running.
3. Definately glue the rings. Ruff up the surfaces being glued with some sandpaper. (rings, axle, plastic diff. spacer.) Don't assemble untill fully dried. If the diff. feels sticky or as if it may be rubbing plastic make sure the diff. ball holes are free, balls should drop in. Make sure the spur gear adaptor isn't rubbing on the flange side of the axle. Have the spacer flush or .01" pushed in on 1 side of the gear. The plastic diff. diff spacer has clearance for the gear adaptor. Lastly, you can add a slightly larger chamfer to the diff side rim where the 1/8" id flanged bearing goes to assure the bearings race clears.
good luck,
Wayne