BoxxerBoyDrew

I got in the carbon fiber front clip for the Ferrari 575GTC, and it works with the Maranello. I had to use all 5 of the plastic shims that came with the clip to level the body, and it's tight, but it works great! Now if I can just find carbon fiber clips for the rest of my bodies!
Take Care and Drive Fast! Drew

BoxxerBoyDrew

Hey Yall, I FINALLY received my Banzai order from Japan, which took 22 days even after paying for the fast shipping. It was NOT Banzai's fault, but Japan's Customs kept sending it back because of the base battery for the NB4. So finally on the 3rd attempt to ship, J's customs made Banzai open the NB4 and attach the base battery to the remote and repack it out of the original NB4 box. So they hooked the 2 pcs together, bubble wrapped the heck out of it and packed it all up, and sent it threw! It worked and a few days later it was here! So THANKS BANZAI! They kept me informed and asked before opening the NB4! AWESOME CUSTOMER SVC!!!
Anyway I got 2 LM bodies, a Mazda 787B and a Toyota. I have seen people here use the PN Multi Motor Mount with the 787B, but does anyone know if it will work with the Toyota? Or am I better off with the NEXX LM round motor Pod?
Also got a Camaro and a McLaren 12c to replace the 12C I over heated trying to get the side clips tight. Man I didn't realize how much the 12C "collapsed" from getting to too hot! The roof and hood are between 1 and 2mm flatter! No wonder I was getting tire rub even with 19mm wheels. Great for racing, but it wouldn't pass Tech Inspection!
And for anyone on the fence about getting a FlySky Noble NB4 for Mini-Z's, go ahead and pull the trigger! I turned the fastest lap on this months Mini96WC layout of 3.99 seconds and my overall lap times were reduced by almost a half a second after only turning 40 laps with the new radio! I changed NOTHING other than the remote, and the remote is at factory settings. I feel much more in touch with the car!
Hope everyone is staying COOL and Safe! Thanks, Drew

BuggyFan21

Hi all

Couple of quick questions

Firstly, does anyone have a recommendation for a brushless setup that will work well with a readyset buggy (MB010)

Second - I have a KO Propo Ex-Next transmitter - this has a Mini-Z mode, does anyone know if it will work with the readyset MB010. If it's not compatible - what would I need to make it so?

Thanks!

sammysy

One option is to get the MB-010VE main board and swap that into the the RTR to get the brushless ESC. https://www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mi...1_p_46081.html

It looks like an easy change to make but the part is pricy.

I don't believe KO Propo Ex-Next with the mini-z mode can support mini-z fhss or asf. This means it won't work with any existing mb-010 electronics. I can only think of a full-on electronics swap on the buggy -- your own esc, receiver, and add a mini-z servo controller, and modifying the chassis.

AMachines

iTrader: (3)

Im thinking this thread is dead......................

MonkeyCmonkeyDo

iTrader: (4)

someone recommend a good staring mini z or starting point for mini z racing?
Thanks
devin

BoxxerBoyDrew

Monkey, I'd check to see if there is a Mini-Z track running in your area, and they will get you started. If you are planning on running at home, get a Mini96 RCP track, and a MR-03 Ready to Run, some good tires and batteries, and you are good to go! When looking for a track watch the shipping costs! Some places have cheap shipping, but they are often out of stock.
I have a mini96 and run in the Mini96 World Challenge here, and it's a blast, but very challenging! There are some super fast guys, who are very knowledgeable, and help out a lot! There is A LOT of great info on both of those threads, just depends on what you are wanting to do as there are soo many things you can do with them.
Give us some details on what you want to do (race, drift, crawl, collect) and we can get ya some help.
Take Care and Stay Cool!
Drew

BoxxerBoyDrew

Hey Guys, I'm building a PN 2.5, and need a soldering iron to work on these tiny circuit boards. I've read and looked up the irons in the electronics section, but most of them are working in 10th scale and up.
So I was wondering what yall are using or would buy if you needed one. I'm looking in the $75-125 range.
Thanks and Stay Cool!
Drew

EMU

iTrader: (3)

Im really cheap, and just use a $15-20 iron set from Amazon. I have both the digital and the cheaper one with the little yellow dial. I prefer the cheaper one. I use the other for plastic welding lexan windows into the bodies. They are also really small, so it makes it really easy to pack in the pitbox... The digital one tends to go to sleep if laying for a couple minutes, which is why I just prefer the simple one with just the dial to adjust the temp (current to the tip). This is the one that I use (got mine with a kit a few years back, and dont need 80% of whats included in the kit. https://www.amazon.com/LDK-Soldering...s%2C90&sr=8-15

With smaller wire, I find that you dont need all the bells a whistles needed for large wires. Our heat load is much lower due to the guage in wire used, so temperature drop is not really an issue as it is with the larger gauges. I had a larger Weller that worked well, but came up to temp slower than the little Amazon one and cost 4x as much and had a base station with temp adjust on it. It just wasnt practical for micro RC use for me.

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Hey Drew! I use the Hakko FX888D soldering station. It comes with a tip that is fine for most mini R/C tasks, but I also ordered a fine curved tip for very fine work like FET jobs. Highly recommended, but not the most portable tool as EMU mentioned. I do take it with me to larger events in case I need it.

BoxxerBoyDrew

Thanks EMU! I have larger soldering equipment from my car audio days, but are too bulky at this scale. I'll order a cheap one for now, and put the savings into more Z stuff!
Thanks Traveler, that's one I have been reading about. SOO MANY options!
Take Care and Stay Cool, Drew

EMU

iTrader: (3)

if you already have good equipment, and know what you're doing, the cheap iron should be a great option to stash in the pit box. It gets hot in about 1-2 minutes, and goes up to about 450 degrees. Compared to the cheap digital ones, I found it to hold temperature better. If im working with it, I turn it up to 425 when using, then dial it down to the lowest setting when putting it down for a few minutes to prepare wire.

keeping the tip clean and using good solder and flux I think are the most important part of making good joints. So long as the iron holds temperature decent enough, which the one I linked does, then you should be good. I've had a couple other styles of inexpensive stations that came with a base which couldn't hold temperature well at all, and would fluctuate a lot in use.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

I picked up one of these a number of years ago. Was one of the best decisions I've made for soldering small RC vehicles.

https://www.sainsmart.com/products/t...ldering-iron-1

MonkeyCmonkeyDo

iTrader: (4)

Ty all. I've been looking forna decent solder iron. Lol.
also I need decent solder with Flux in it.
What temp all?

My mini z will be racing. They are talking about doing it north of here at a hobby town and maybe some 1/10 scale on road in a cover parking lot. Idk haven't ventured out to see yet.
I really like the rwd and pan cars. Le man's body's.
also I like the f1.
The mach 5 speed racer
the batmobile.
Lol.

Is it even worth getting the $60 starter mini z or do I just get the $200 rtr?!
I have a futaba t4pm so I think it can do mini z's.
-d

cdog4w

iTrader: (4)

Quick question, do newer readysets come with the rfid tag for timing on the bottom of the chassis still? Hobby Town near me just got more space and has a RCP track.