Im currently having serious issues with cogging on my motor, the leads that come off the esc get pretty hot as well ~60c. Its not the added teeth on the pinion gear, because even with no load the esc cogs. Ive tried swapping the esc leads to the motor, and apart from reveresing the motor spin direction, Ive had no luck. I dont have another esc or motor to try it with, but i've tried both my batteries and the problem is the same. Any ideas?

Update, upon inspection of the motor wires I ripped one of the windings out. So looks like Ill need to get a 1/24th brushless combo -_-

Went ahead and ordered a 45a esc (smallest I could find) and a 1230 sized 5500kv motor. Should be a little more kv than what i currently am running, so might drop down a tooth, well see though.

Also bought some bearings and some ball studs for v2 of this.

Updates!

Got the inboard suspension in the semi-completed phase.
You can see my sway bar, still very much in the prototype phase kind of installed, it does its job decently (notice how one wheel is pulled down, the other is pushed up.

The rear shock mounts need to be moved back quite a few mm's to line up the push rods with the suspension knuckles.

Have to manage to incorporate a sway bar mount into the push rods as well.

The final version will have the top chassis brace and front/rear suspension mounts as a solid piece.

Still a ways to go, but pretty happy with everything so far.

You need smaller wheels. ;)

Yea, I could lose about 5mm of tread on either side to get the wheels to tuck nicely in the body, but they don't really bother me much.

Maybe you can try the 1/24 wheels from the IDT touringcar from Xpwer: X-Power RC

Oh I can just 3d print new rims, like I did with these ones 😂 and I still have plenty of tire left that I can cut and tread it with.

As of todays progress i'm very happy with how everything is looking, and functioning. Few little bits to get done though:
-Mount the front sway bar,
-Tie front and rear shock plates together into a upper deck chassis brace
-Incorporate a upper hinge pin carrier in the rear shock plate, to avoid it from falling out.

I can now get the ride height and suspension stiffness without maxing out the threaded shock bodies, this is because I moved the shock upper and lower mounts closer together.

Really happy with the sway bar, used some spare 'G' chord string which seems to do the trick.

Realized I hadn't uploaded recent pics of the car, but here is how it stands. Still waiting for my esc and motor from hobbyking, hopefully itll be here soon. Would like to try out the suspension and dial it in.

Made some progress on the body. Fixed the body posts so now that the body sits nicely I decided to do some body work on it, make it look more scale. Not quite finished yet, I did the rear, side, and front widebody pieces separately so I could piece them together and made changes.

Got everything figured out for the most part have to do a little more work on the front quarter to close up some of the fender gap around the front and rear. But overall super happy with how it has come so far, not bad for eyeballing measurements and body curves.

Also added a custom front and rear license plate, i've used 2FAST4U as a custom licence plate in every racing game thats let you change it, so I thought I'd carry it forward here.

Added mirrors, which are screwed into the body (inside out).

Added a front spliter as well as a rear diffuser, rear diffuser is glued in place with shoe goo, the front is not yet attached. I think im going to trim a bit off the front of the body, Its fairly low sitting and would like a few more mm's of ground clearance.

Anyway here are the pictures!

Enjoy, and feel free to comment, as always.

Little update...

Got the wide body kit printed out, gave it a sand, also printed a roll cage and mounted that up as well.

Really happy with how it looks.

That body is sick! :)

Thank you! a couple scale details really go a long way!

It looks far and mean just sitting there.

So I'm brainstorming the idea of going belt driven.. Why not go all the way right haha.
Main advantages of going belt driven are:

1) No more spur, pinion meshing
2) No possibility of stripping diff gears

But there are a couple challenges I face, I cant, for the life of me, find the ring gear/ pinion gear teeth count on the differential to calculate the ratio. And I would really REALLY not like to open the diff just to count the teeth.

Secondly, never owned a belt drive system, so making one is going to be reliant on a lot of inspiration from google, and getting the right belt gear ratios is going to be tricky, I dont want to design an inefficient setup.

Besides bearings, I have spare belts from my 3D printer, bought like 10m of fibre reinforced belting as an upgrade and havent had to change it out yet, so snagging 30cm of it wouldnt be an issue.

Of course all the diffs would be designed by myself so no parts needed there.

I would go ball diff front and rear, and already have an idea of how that would work.

So if anyone has a belt drive rc, could you tell me:
1) how many belt gears it has
2) teeth count on each gear
3) motor and cell count
4) apprx. top speed