Mini "M" Spec / Mini Modified
#1
Mini class is getting larger by the day!
We need to separate these out to make them survive.
The endbell timing wars are over.
Spec "M" Class:
-Silver can 540
-2S LiPo Max
-Tamiya 60 series tires A,B,S,M, or Kit
-Tamiya Mini Chassis ONLY: M02, M03, M04?, M05, or M06
Mini Modified:
-Any Motor
-Any 1/12 Chassis 2wd 235mm wheelbase or less with full suspension (no pan cars)
-Any rubber tires/rims
If you show up to the track with anything in question you are in Modified. Boost it, gear it & let it rip.
The Spec class has gotten too fast for off the shelf cars & the brushless wars are starting to discourage newcomers.
We need to separate these out to make them survive.
The endbell timing wars are over.
Spec "M" Class:
-Silver can 540
-2S LiPo Max
-Tamiya 60 series tires A,B,S,M, or Kit
-Tamiya Mini Chassis ONLY: M02, M03, M04?, M05, or M06
Mini Modified:
-Any Motor
-Any 1/12 Chassis 2wd 235mm wheelbase or less with full suspension (no pan cars)
-Any rubber tires/rims
If you show up to the track with anything in question you are in Modified. Boost it, gear it & let it rip.
The Spec class has gotten too fast for off the shelf cars & the brushless wars are starting to discourage newcomers.
#2
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 38
Mini class is getting larger by the day!
We need to separate these out to make them survive.
The endbell timing wars are over.
Spec "M" Class:
-Silver can 540
-2S LiPo Max
-Tamiya 60 series tires A,B,S,M, or Kit
-Tamiya Mini Chassis ONLY: M02, M03, M04?, M05, or M06
Mini Modified:
-Any Motor
-Any 1/12 Chassis 2wd 235mm wheelbase or less with full suspension (no pan cars)
-Any rubber tires/rims
If you show up to the track with anything in question you are in Modified. Boost it, gear it & let it rip.
The Spec class has gotten too fast for off the shelf cars & the brushless wars are starting to discourage newcomers.
We need to separate these out to make them survive.
The endbell timing wars are over.
Spec "M" Class:
-Silver can 540
-2S LiPo Max
-Tamiya 60 series tires A,B,S,M, or Kit
-Tamiya Mini Chassis ONLY: M02, M03, M04?, M05, or M06
Mini Modified:
-Any Motor
-Any 1/12 Chassis 2wd 235mm wheelbase or less with full suspension (no pan cars)
-Any rubber tires/rims
If you show up to the track with anything in question you are in Modified. Boost it, gear it & let it rip.
The Spec class has gotten too fast for off the shelf cars & the brushless wars are starting to discourage newcomers.
#4
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,982
From: Janesville, Wisconsin
#6
Nice work on the m06, Giff!!
Guys, great job on fixing the mini class speed dilemma.
Stock class is where I'm gonna be at. The cranked up 21.5 was a handful and made me go wide on the the corners. I gotta learn lines still, less hp will Make me appreciate corner speed again.
J. Catalano, 10.5 in 4wd ABC? You have the PowA!!
Guys, great job on fixing the mini class speed dilemma.
Stock class is where I'm gonna be at. The cranked up 21.5 was a handful and made me go wide on the the corners. I gotta learn lines still, less hp will Make me appreciate corner speed again.
J. Catalano, 10.5 in 4wd ABC? You have the PowA!!
#7
guys, i have no dog in this fight, i have no mini car, i am not getting a mini car.....
but here is my take on this,
i think you leave it as 1 class.
the nice thing about this is that if i want to get into this class i can do it in a cost effective manor....
meaning that i can buy the car, and run it as is..(speaking from a motor esc standpoint)and if your a good driver be competitive...
as skills improve, or you get the cash, you can upgrade to a brushless system....
in the long run, the brushed motor is going to cost more.
i may get blasted for this, but in my eyes, the cars were not that different in speed....ya, some were faster, but for the most part they were close enough that the better driver would win, not the fastest motor....
but here is my take on this,
i think you leave it as 1 class.
the nice thing about this is that if i want to get into this class i can do it in a cost effective manor....
meaning that i can buy the car, and run it as is..(speaking from a motor esc standpoint)and if your a good driver be competitive...
as skills improve, or you get the cash, you can upgrade to a brushless system....
in the long run, the brushed motor is going to cost more.
i may get blasted for this, but in my eyes, the cars were not that different in speed....ya, some were faster, but for the most part they were close enough that the better driver would win, not the fastest motor....
#9
I don't think there is enough class support for 2 classes of mini. As Matt stated, you can make anyone's car faster or slower, but the better drivers will always come to the top.
Now lets get into personal responsibility as a racer. If your car is too fast, dial it down. I know it hurts to hear someone say that you need to dial your radio down as a matter of personal pride. Its one thing to have a real racing incident where two cars tap or you tap a rail by mistake. Its another thing to hit rail after rail because you have too much car to control or you cross lanes and can't hold a racing line because you have too much motor and cause collisions. This is supposed to be a fun class and not a plunge in the deep end. So I ask that we as racers, get a good setup, learn to drive a clean line and gradually increase your speed as you can handle it. I know I need to follow my own guidance at times and it is for positive reinforcement that I write now. Will I ever be able to compete with Stan, Tim, Vue and Cesar? I would like to think so. How do I do this? Make a short term goal of running a race with little to no marshalling required. How do I do that? Run a car that I control, not one that controls me. How do I accomplish that? Ask an experienced racer for help, race the clock and achieve steady improvement.
Enough for now. I like the racing we have, lets grow it more.
Now lets get into personal responsibility as a racer. If your car is too fast, dial it down. I know it hurts to hear someone say that you need to dial your radio down as a matter of personal pride. Its one thing to have a real racing incident where two cars tap or you tap a rail by mistake. Its another thing to hit rail after rail because you have too much car to control or you cross lanes and can't hold a racing line because you have too much motor and cause collisions. This is supposed to be a fun class and not a plunge in the deep end. So I ask that we as racers, get a good setup, learn to drive a clean line and gradually increase your speed as you can handle it. I know I need to follow my own guidance at times and it is for positive reinforcement that I write now. Will I ever be able to compete with Stan, Tim, Vue and Cesar? I would like to think so. How do I do this? Make a short term goal of running a race with little to no marshalling required. How do I do that? Run a car that I control, not one that controls me. How do I accomplish that? Ask an experienced racer for help, race the clock and achieve steady improvement.
Enough for now. I like the racing we have, lets grow it more.
#12
This gives the newcomers a real class to run a $10 motor, $30 ESC.
As far as "Racing" we can combine two classes in to one qualifier if there is a lower turn out...
This is club racing, lets keep it fun & inexpensive.
As far as "Racing" we can combine two classes in to one qualifier if there is a lower turn out...
This is club racing, lets keep it fun & inexpensive.
#15
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,819
From: Chi-Town West Burbs
I don't have to bet and this isn't a pissing contest.....I have had my ass handed to me by guys running silvercan powered minis. Just talk to Eric at Harbor Hobbies, he has tested minis with both and agrees that silvercans are faster.



