spawn

iTrader: (6)

Will probably be too bloody expensive when it comes here. If it is prices below 250 then can consider but where to get the pinions? should be expensive again!.

Windtalkers

well spawn, perhaps we could look at the positive angle, at the price stated.... could the stuff deliver the performance that you could edge out the rests of the guys???

just an opinion....

spawn

iTrader: (6)

ya but I think it not worth it. The clutch is probably more expensive than my proton clutch.

x_man

Look at it this way, if the performance of this clutch edge out the closest competition by 10%(an exagerated amount) you still have another 90% to make up for with your skill. So in short, the little advantage(if any) it gives will not be that great a deal.
Unless of course if we are talking about world class level where the skill level of top ten drivers is on par to each other, every little advantage they can squeeze of of their equipment make a whole lot of difference. That is world class level of course.... But for the ordinary Joe like us, it just doesn't makes any difference. Might be a good idea to spend that amount of money somewhere else.

InitialD

What's so different with the Yokomo Centax clutch for the NTC3 when compared to the K Factory one? Centax was already available for the NTC3 long before Yokomo came out with one.

People say shaft driven nitro cars do not need the Centax clutch. But what about LD3 and the Kyosho FW05R? Why do they come with Centax clutch?

InitialD

True. Normal mortals like us will always benefit the "slower means faster" !

No point having the most fanstastic clutch when you overshoot the corners every now and then.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

I have used std clutch and centax clutch, of course the centax is more efficient but I am not willing to spend that much money when my std clutch is working just as good. Funny thing is that once I have found the right adjustment for my centax I dont adjust it anymore although it is totally adjustable. I also found the right setting for the std clutch so I am happy with it.

InitialD

The thing is you run on the same track come every weekend. If you run on various tracks where traction can change, you need more slip in the clutch out of the corners to pull the car nicely. If traction is high, you can set the clutch to engage at an instant. So that's the "adjustable" thing about the Centax clutch.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

but I am too lazy to adjust coz I have to remove a lot of stuff to adjust it.

InitialD

No need to take out a lot of things... Just put in a 1.5 mm allen driver in one of the holes of the clutchbell. Find the goove of the retaining nut that sets the spring tension. Once you find the groove, stick the 1.5 mm intot he groove and lock it and turn the flywheel only. Clockwise to LOOSEN the clutch nut and anticlockwise to TIGHTEN it.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

Ya but for mugen I have to remove the brace, then remove the air filter then only can adjust.

InitialD

That bad? Can't you access the clutchbell from below the chassis? Need not necessary be from the top ya know...

spawn

iTrader: (6)

if access from bottom I cannot secure the clutch to change the setting.

x_man

Have you tried using the normal "L" shaped allen key instead of the straight driver type? Has seen one of my friend do it and it can be done without removing anything.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

tried but not sucessful coz there is nothing to secure the flywheel from also moving when adjusting the spring.