HOBBYTOWN USA NITRO & ELECTRIC ON ROAD RACING
01-08-2012, 09:47 PM
#77
RACE NEWS RACE RULES
Race Update,OK,People have been asking about sportsman class,Also some of the people are worried about rookies racing and cars getting tore up,
I have thought about it and have come up with a way to fix it,On electric touring and electric gt touring I am going to have two seperate classes there will be Electric touring and there will be electric touring novice,And then in GT there will be Electric GT touring and also Electric GT touring novice.You know your skill level and also this will make it better for all.More info will be given on race day,So that will make the novice classes like a sportsman class.And the beginners you will have a chance to win .
Far as nitro most of you can race.But if we have to do it the same way we will.Hope you guys like these new rules and look foward to Sunday Jan 15th
Thanks
ROB S
Last edited by Rob S Hobbytown; 01-08-2012 at 10:02 PM.
01-09-2012, 09:03 AM
#82
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAAHAHAAA!!!!!!!
CMON NOW ...... DONT GOT TO GET YA PANTIES IN A BUNCH BRO!!!!!
JUST TAKE YA SMACKDOWN WITH PRIDE ON THE 15TH AND BE GLAD TO SAY THAT YOU OFFICIALLY GOT SPANKED BY THE INFAMOUS Q-BORO BOMBER!!!!BY THE WAY WHO IS FLEXX LUTHER???????????LOL I THINK I KNOW WHO YOU ARE BUT WELL SEE THIS WEEKEND!!!!!!!PALM BAY BETTER BRING OUT THE BIG GUNZZZ THIS WEEKEND ORLANDO IS COMIN TO SHUT IT DOWN YOU GUYZ MIGHT WANT TO CALL AUSTIN OUT OF RETIREMENT SO I CAN HAVE SOME COMP FOR THE WEEKEND!!!!!!!!
JUST TAKE YA SMACKDOWN WITH PRIDE ON THE 15TH AND BE GLAD TO SAY THAT YOU OFFICIALLY GOT SPANKED BY THE INFAMOUS Q-BORO BOMBER!!!!BY THE WAY WHO IS FLEXX LUTHER???????????LOL I THINK I KNOW WHO YOU ARE BUT WELL SEE THIS WEEKEND!!!!!!!PALM BAY BETTER BRING OUT THE BIG GUNZZZ THIS WEEKEND ORLANDO IS COMIN TO SHUT IT DOWN YOU GUYZ MIGHT WANT TO CALL AUSTIN OUT OF RETIREMENT SO I CAN HAVE SOME COMP FOR THE WEEKEND!!!!!!!!
01-09-2012, 07:10 PM
#85
Class Vintage ROAR Specs
Hey People,
Just to put it out there, I have had a couple of guys come into the shop and asking if I would run a Vintage Roar spec class,I wasnt to hip on it but To make our program better and to always show support to eveyone in RC Racing.If you guys show up and there are 3 or more Vintage racers and your car is within roar rules I will make that class for you.So bring them out and we will race it,
Thanks again,
Rob S
Just to put it out there, I have had a couple of guys come into the shop and asking if I would run a Vintage Roar spec class,I wasnt to hip on it but To make our program better and to always show support to eveyone in RC Racing.If you guys show up and there are 3 or more Vintage racers and your car is within roar rules I will make that class for you.So bring them out and we will race it,Thanks again,
Rob S
01-09-2012, 07:33 PM
#86
THIS WILL HELP ALL RACERS FOR THIS CLASS
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/index.html
WAY TO GO ROB THIS WILL BE A GREAT CLASS TO RUN
MOST IMPORTANTLY: If it's not in the rules, and does not encompass the spirit of slower, controlled racing with realistic looking cars, consider it illegal. This is called the "Spirit of VTA" Rule. The class is based on slower, equal playing field competition with less traction, minimal aerodynamic aids and mostly older carpet racing technology. The final objective is close, fair, wheel-to-wheel racing for all. All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final.
AND MOST OF ALL JUST HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!
GUYS CHECK OUT THE GALLERY IN THE usvintagetransam SITE
THESE WERE TAKEN @ MY TRACK IN 2008
LOVE THAT I JUST FOUND THEM
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/index.html
WAY TO GO ROB THIS WILL BE A GREAT CLASS TO RUN
MOST IMPORTANTLY: If it's not in the rules, and does not encompass the spirit of slower, controlled racing with realistic looking cars, consider it illegal. This is called the "Spirit of VTA" Rule. The class is based on slower, equal playing field competition with less traction, minimal aerodynamic aids and mostly older carpet racing technology. The final objective is close, fair, wheel-to-wheel racing for all. All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final.
AND MOST OF ALL JUST HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!
GUYS CHECK OUT THE GALLERY IN THE usvintagetransam SITE
THESE WERE TAKEN @ MY TRACK IN 2008
LOVE THAT I JUST FOUND THEM
Last edited by rcpaintinpete; 01-09-2012 at 07:44 PM.
01-10-2012, 09:23 AM
#88
An opinion on VTA from someone who's been doing it for about three years...
First, it's fun. There's nothing like watching American Muscle in vintage paint schemes with realistic looking tires on Cragar SS wheels rubbing fenders like they did back in the 60s and 70s.
Second, it's slow, but that doesn't mean it isn't fun. When everyone else is running the same motor, finishing first comes down to skill, skill and most importantly, SKILL. There is no horsepower to save your butt if you're tapping pipes every lap. If you want to pass someone, you better drive better than that person. There's nothing more rewarding than tailing someone for a lap and setting up that perfect inside/out pass going down the back stretch.
Finally, this is a great second class for more experienced people and a great beginner class for someone who isn't ready to handle 17.5 speeds. I learned more about setup and driving from this class than I did banging pipes in a 17.5 car.
Couple of pointers from some who's done VTA for a while...
1. There are three versions of HPI VTA tires- #4793 and #4797 are the ones you want- the other ones suck/aren't legal
2. Motors- ROAR can't show preference to one manufacturer, the official VTA rules specify Novak only. Other clubs have found that there's no real difference but Novak has really stepped up to help VTA with products and customer service.
3. ESCs- the approved list makes it VERY easy to prevent cheating. You won't have to worry about various Blinky modes and software profiles.
4. Bodies- the current list doesn't allow the Corvette Stingray and Pantera that raced much later in SCCA's Trans Am series. I've seen them on the track and they look awesome, especially in retro paint schemes.
5. Buy In- some people don't want to buy all that equipment to run a "slow" class. I've seen everything from old plastic tub TC3s to high end Corallys to entry level Sakura Zero S cars compete in VTA. Used Novak products are cheap to buy and their website offers remanufactured products at good prices. I'd say the most difficult part of getting into VTA is buying new pinions and spurs to get down to the recommended (NOT required) 4.0 FDR. Another way to get people to buy in is to let them turn down the EPA on their throttle to match the speeds of other 25.5 motors. Once people get a feel for the class they are more than likely to show up the next race with 100% compliance to the rules.
6. Keep it Simple- Once people deviate from the printed rules, you might as well not run VTA. There's nothing easier to figure out than a 25.5 motor, non-programmable ESC, American Muscle body and HPI Vintage tires. It's not rocket science, which is why MANY clubs across the country run the rules.
First, it's fun. There's nothing like watching American Muscle in vintage paint schemes with realistic looking tires on Cragar SS wheels rubbing fenders like they did back in the 60s and 70s.
Second, it's slow, but that doesn't mean it isn't fun. When everyone else is running the same motor, finishing first comes down to skill, skill and most importantly, SKILL. There is no horsepower to save your butt if you're tapping pipes every lap. If you want to pass someone, you better drive better than that person. There's nothing more rewarding than tailing someone for a lap and setting up that perfect inside/out pass going down the back stretch.
Finally, this is a great second class for more experienced people and a great beginner class for someone who isn't ready to handle 17.5 speeds. I learned more about setup and driving from this class than I did banging pipes in a 17.5 car.
Couple of pointers from some who's done VTA for a while...
1. There are three versions of HPI VTA tires- #4793 and #4797 are the ones you want- the other ones suck/aren't legal
2. Motors- ROAR can't show preference to one manufacturer, the official VTA rules specify Novak only. Other clubs have found that there's no real difference but Novak has really stepped up to help VTA with products and customer service.
3. ESCs- the approved list makes it VERY easy to prevent cheating. You won't have to worry about various Blinky modes and software profiles.
4. Bodies- the current list doesn't allow the Corvette Stingray and Pantera that raced much later in SCCA's Trans Am series. I've seen them on the track and they look awesome, especially in retro paint schemes.
5. Buy In- some people don't want to buy all that equipment to run a "slow" class. I've seen everything from old plastic tub TC3s to high end Corallys to entry level Sakura Zero S cars compete in VTA. Used Novak products are cheap to buy and their website offers remanufactured products at good prices. I'd say the most difficult part of getting into VTA is buying new pinions and spurs to get down to the recommended (NOT required) 4.0 FDR. Another way to get people to buy in is to let them turn down the EPA on their throttle to match the speeds of other 25.5 motors. Once people get a feel for the class they are more than likely to show up the next race with 100% compliance to the rules.
6. Keep it Simple- Once people deviate from the printed rules, you might as well not run VTA. There's nothing easier to figure out than a 25.5 motor, non-programmable ESC, American Muscle body and HPI Vintage tires. It's not rocket science, which is why MANY clubs across the country run the rules.
01-10-2012, 02:24 PM
#90
An opinion on VTA from someone who's been doing it for about three years...
First, it's fun. There's nothing like watching American Muscle in vintage paint schemes with realistic looking tires on Cragar SS wheels rubbing fenders like they did back in the 60s and 70s.
Second, it's slow, but that doesn't mean it isn't fun. When everyone else is running the same motor, finishing first comes down to skill, skill and most importantly, SKILL. There is no horsepower to save your butt if you're tapping pipes every lap. If you want to pass someone, you better drive better than that person. There's nothing more rewarding than tailing someone for a lap and setting up that perfect inside/out pass going down the back stretch.
Finally, this is a great second class for more experienced people and a great beginner class for someone who isn't ready to handle 17.5 speeds. I learned more about setup and driving from this class than I did banging pipes in a 17.5 car.
Couple of pointers from some who's done VTA for a while...
1. There are three versions of HPI VTA tires- #4793 and #4797 are the ones you want- the other ones suck/aren't legal
2. Motors- ROAR can't show preference to one manufacturer, the official VTA rules specify Novak only. Other clubs have found that there's no real difference but Novak has really stepped up to help VTA with products and customer service.
3. ESCs- the approved list makes it VERY easy to prevent cheating. You won't have to worry about various Blinky modes and software profiles.
4. Bodies- the current list doesn't allow the Corvette Stingray and Pantera that raced much later in SCCA's Trans Am series. I've seen them on the track and they look awesome, especially in retro paint schemes.
5. Buy In- some people don't want to buy all that equipment to run a "slow" class. I've seen everything from old plastic tub TC3s to high end Corallys to entry level Sakura Zero S cars compete in VTA. Used Novak products are cheap to buy and their website offers remanufactured products at good prices. I'd say the most difficult part of getting into VTA is buying new pinions and spurs to get down to the recommended (NOT required) 4.0 FDR. Another way to get people to buy in is to let them turn down the EPA on their throttle to match the speeds of other 25.5 motors. Once people get a feel for the class they are more than likely to show up the next race with 100% compliance to the rules.
6. Keep it Simple- Once people deviate from the printed rules, you might as well not run VTA. There's nothing easier to figure out than a 25.5 motor, non-programmable ESC, American Muscle body and HPI Vintage tires. It's not rocket science, which is why MANY clubs across the country run the rules.
First, it's fun. There's nothing like watching American Muscle in vintage paint schemes with realistic looking tires on Cragar SS wheels rubbing fenders like they did back in the 60s and 70s.
Second, it's slow, but that doesn't mean it isn't fun. When everyone else is running the same motor, finishing first comes down to skill, skill and most importantly, SKILL. There is no horsepower to save your butt if you're tapping pipes every lap. If you want to pass someone, you better drive better than that person. There's nothing more rewarding than tailing someone for a lap and setting up that perfect inside/out pass going down the back stretch.
Finally, this is a great second class for more experienced people and a great beginner class for someone who isn't ready to handle 17.5 speeds. I learned more about setup and driving from this class than I did banging pipes in a 17.5 car.
Couple of pointers from some who's done VTA for a while...
1. There are three versions of HPI VTA tires- #4793 and #4797 are the ones you want- the other ones suck/aren't legal
2. Motors- ROAR can't show preference to one manufacturer, the official VTA rules specify Novak only. Other clubs have found that there's no real difference but Novak has really stepped up to help VTA with products and customer service.
3. ESCs- the approved list makes it VERY easy to prevent cheating. You won't have to worry about various Blinky modes and software profiles.
4. Bodies- the current list doesn't allow the Corvette Stingray and Pantera that raced much later in SCCA's Trans Am series. I've seen them on the track and they look awesome, especially in retro paint schemes.
5. Buy In- some people don't want to buy all that equipment to run a "slow" class. I've seen everything from old plastic tub TC3s to high end Corallys to entry level Sakura Zero S cars compete in VTA. Used Novak products are cheap to buy and their website offers remanufactured products at good prices. I'd say the most difficult part of getting into VTA is buying new pinions and spurs to get down to the recommended (NOT required) 4.0 FDR. Another way to get people to buy in is to let them turn down the EPA on their throttle to match the speeds of other 25.5 motors. Once people get a feel for the class they are more than likely to show up the next race with 100% compliance to the rules.
6. Keep it Simple- Once people deviate from the printed rules, you might as well not run VTA. There's nothing easier to figure out than a 25.5 motor, non-programmable ESC, American Muscle body and HPI Vintage tires. It's not rocket science, which is why MANY clubs across the country run the rules.
WOULD LIKE TO PICK YOUR BRAIN AT THE NEXT RACE
LIKE ROB SAID WE HAVE A FEW GUYS ASKING ABOUT THIS CLASS
THAT WILL BE AT THE NEXT EVENT HOPE TO SEE YOU THERE
THANKS