60LikesVBC D10
04-03-2018, 09:00 AM
#211
Tech Addict
Out of the box, how's the car's steering characteristic? I previously had experience with Tamiya and Ae's touring offerings and don't mind to try this one out.
04-03-2018, 09:29 AM
#212
I too raced Tamiya cars in the past from a 417 to 419. VBC D10 is much better steering car then any of those Tamiya mentioned above. I dislike c-hubs like no tomorrow the D10 has no c-hubs low cg on the steering geometry. If was to make a suggestion to VBC on their next cars I would reduce the bearing size on the diff's use the same size bearings thru the whole car. If you raced Tamiya you will love this car for a car many have never heard of this car is well made a d engineered.
04-03-2018, 11:57 AM
#213
Tech Initiate
Outdoor Ashpalt , a bit bumpy in certain sections . Silly question - how do I upload a set up sheet . If not hit me up with a pm - I can mail to you and if you could kindly share with he group.
I also tried 49mm dual jointed rear shafts and I quite liked the feel around the fast , bumpy sweepers - the rear end felt more planted
I do agree with your very early post that we need to raise the front inner links to 3-4mm to take away the angle and prevent death rings . The works in line with raising the RC on the suspension blocks . The more I raise the RC , the better the car handles
04-03-2018, 12:01 PM
#214
Tech Initiate
Because the angle is much less than stock , there is not much adjustment for a lower ride height of say 6mm. I remembered that the D09 used the V2 alloy collars which dropped the said collar quite a bit over the ball end . The helped in giving more adjustment room. I am going to test the flipped arms again , I believe the car is much more predictable .
04-05-2018, 01:27 PM
#215
I was thinking about your shock angle issue some more and was wondering if you tried the following, as long as we are talking about D10 specific suspension.
You could try changing the arm inserts, from the long arm to the short arm setting. With this and using smaller number suspension arm inserts or even flipping them for a narrower setting, you could change the lower shock mount by quite a bit. Then to make up for the narrower overall width setting you could go to a wider hex or use spacers with the stock hexes. This way you would change shock angle and get the roll center back with the width adjustment.
If you want to send me your setup you can just use the email link for my profile.
You could try changing the arm inserts, from the long arm to the short arm setting. With this and using smaller number suspension arm inserts or even flipping them for a narrower setting, you could change the lower shock mount by quite a bit. Then to make up for the narrower overall width setting you could go to a wider hex or use spacers with the stock hexes. This way you would change shock angle and get the roll center back with the width adjustment.
If you want to send me your setup you can just use the email link for my profile.
04-07-2018, 01:12 PM
#216
Hey guys, I had my first serious run today and it seems that my rear hub are defective, as the hole in it is absolutely not centered. I ended with asymmetric toe-in (3 on the left, 4.5 on the right) with the standard five-point RR insert.
I've bought this kit by Tonisport some weeks ago... Do you think it is possible there are still defective kits out there?
What were exactly the defective parts? rear hubs? arms? chassis?
I will obviously contact Tonisport, because my kit was not containing any replacement parts, so I thought it was coming from a good batch, but...
I've bought this kit by Tonisport some weeks ago... Do you think it is possible there are still defective kits out there?
What were exactly the defective parts? rear hubs? arms? chassis?
I will obviously contact Tonisport, because my kit was not containing any replacement parts, so I thought it was coming from a good batch, but...
04-09-2018, 01:49 AM
#217
Tech Addict
Hey guys, I had my first serious run today and it seems that my rear hub are defective, as the hole in it is absolutely not centered. I ended with asymmetric toe-in (3 on the left, 4.5 on the right) with the standard five-point RR insert.
I've bought this kit by Tonisport some weeks ago... Do you think it is possible there are still defective kits out there?
What were exactly the defective parts? rear hubs? arms? chassis?
I will obviously contact Tonisport, because my kit was not containing any replacement parts, so I thought it was coming from a good batch, but...
I've bought this kit by Tonisport some weeks ago... Do you think it is possible there are still defective kits out there?
What were exactly the defective parts? rear hubs? arms? chassis?
I will obviously contact Tonisport, because my kit was not containing any replacement parts, so I thought it was coming from a good batch, but...
04-10-2018, 08:57 AM
#218
Tech Addict
04-10-2018, 01:11 PM
#219
I can see that you are using Tamiya rear hubs... Is that also the reason?
04-10-2018, 03:57 PM
#220
Tech Addict
04-11-2018, 02:58 PM
#221
What is the difference between VBC and Tamiya ones?
04-12-2018, 08:30 PM
#223
Tech Initiate
Have a question on assemble the steering block (front) part where the bottom screw hole is using M4 screw.. how would you guys make good lining on the M4 thread. Any particular tools to help on this? I was doing both side on the front.. but was not getting the same lining for left and right...so wonder if any tricks or tools could help me on this step.. (Usually for M3 thread, i got a tool which help to do the lining thread, but not with M4,) Any advice, much appreciate.. thanks.
Steering Block - M4 Screw Thread
Steering Block - M4 Screw Thread
04-12-2018, 08:56 PM
#224
Have a question on assemble the steering block (front) part where the bottom screw hole is using M4 screw.. how would you guys make good lining on the M4 thread. Any particular tools to help on this? I was doing both side on the front.. but was not getting the same lining for left and right...so wonder if any tricks or tools could help me on this step.. (Usually for M3 thread, i got a tool which help to do the lining thread, but not with M4,) Any advice, much appreciate.. thanks.<br />
<img src="https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rctech.net-vbulletin/187x305/2018_04_13_11_26_13__bc4fa8fc36e53a646ae52ccd2ae70 0b85380a2ea.png" alt="" class="post_inline_image" /><br />
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<i>Steering Block - M4 Screw Thread</i>
<img src="https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rctech.net-vbulletin/187x305/2018_04_13_11_26_13__bc4fa8fc36e53a646ae52ccd2ae70 0b85380a2ea.png" alt="" class="post_inline_image" /><br />
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<i>Steering Block - M4 Screw Thread</i>
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Those are two holes that I specifically never try to pre-tap as I feel that fresh cutting these threads helps keep those screws tight in the plastic, which keep the front end less sloppy. Just take your time and get the screw head as centered and straight as possible.
04-13-2018, 12:30 AM
#225
Have a question on assemble the steering block (front) part where the bottom screw hole is using M4 screw.. how would you guys make good lining on the M4 thread. Any particular tools to help on this? I was doing both side on the front.. but was not getting the same lining for left and right...so wonder if any tricks or tools could help me on this step.. (Usually for M3 thread, i got a tool which help to do the lining thread, but not with M4,) Any advice, much appreciate.. thanks.
Steering Block - M4 Screw Thread
Steering Block - M4 Screw Thread