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Old 05-08-2018, 02:54 AM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper
I was finally able to run my M-07 with friends. Today was the first time I was driving it outside of my driveway. I was extremely impressed with the way it handled. It's a very planted car and it really only got loose when I wasn't smooth on the wheel and the tall body would cause extra weight transfer.

My concerns came true though. The parking lot was rough and somewhere along the way my plug popped out. Gravel got in the gears and decided the plastic was tasty and started chewing it up. I was able to pop the gravel out of the gear and they will be fine, but I'm going to get a spare set to keep on hand.

I'm not sure why the plug popped out. It must have been a hard chassis slap on the ground. I jumped our garden hose guardrail more than once and that's probably when it happened. But my suspicion that the pinion access hole would be problematic was correct. If anybody experiences the plug popping out, please, let me know. I don't think a design change is needed, but I will revise it if necessary. I believe this was an isolated incident because the parking lot was too rough and this driver jumped the hose one too many times.
Had the exact same issue in the local school yard. Rough asphalt with scattered rock pebbles from the winter. I also struggled with the low ground clearance, making the car jump when it hit gravel. Plug popped out and some very small pebbles got wedged in the gears (between the pinion and spur gear) making a mighty annoying sound (before I managed to clear them out). I do plan to use the longer end cups and some stiffer springs on the shocks to maximize the clearance AND stop the car from bottoming out. Some sort of redesigned plug that is more flush with the chassis would be nice for bashing though.
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:14 AM
  #677  
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Originally Posted by freaky321
sorry for the very late response,but what would you like to know?

I am running the small trf dampers and low profile shock towers,for instance
and also with the double cardan joint shafts.

also running it with a spool,very high traction,but a bit tricky to drive.
Maybe I will try an oil filled diff with 1 or 2 million cst oil

I see the photo is with the old setup,lol,I will post a new one
The spool is the main reason. I am guessing the car wanders down the straight and is extremely aggressive coming off the corner. Go oil filled with 500k.
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Old 05-08-2018, 10:16 AM
  #678  
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Can anyone assist ?
I run on asphalt,M-07 MWB and I still find the best tire setup for me is S Grip(FR) & M Grip Tires(RR).
I have tried Ride slicks and they don't work for me.


Does anyone know which Shimizu Racing Treaded tire is most similar to M-Grip & S-Grip.

Looking forward to your thoughts.
I have found that Tamiya A slicks (the ones w/ the hard inserts) up front and Tamiya S-grips in rear work best for me on asphalt. ...but some of the fastest drivers at my track run s-grips all the way around (yet I think they are worn down pretty good).

The spool is the main reason. I am guessing the car wanders down the straight and is extremely aggressive coming off the corner. Go oil filled with 500k.
. ...I started w/ 1mill, -was too thick, then went down to 500k still too thick (or so I thought), then went down to about 250k and was too thin (too much wheel spin around corners and loss of power) ...so now going to try 500k again. LOL! -its a game of continually tweaking!
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Old 05-09-2018, 02:14 PM
  #679  
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson
The spool is the main reason. I am guessing the car wanders down the straight and is extremely aggressive coming off the corner. Go oil filled with 500k.
Still driving with an spool
I have found my solution,harder front springs and also shocks at the shock tower 1 hole more to the outside
.Car runs briljant now, its really a little touring car. Found a nice balance for my drive style
Also running harder spring at the back then front,for optimal traction.
I am driving it on a asphalt track

Using S grip tamiya tyes for front and back,I could not run these tyres at the front with my m05,but the m07 runs great with them.

We can use wings attachted to the body so, a wing at the back and the back of the car is easy to drive

We have high cubstones at our local track,I can drive them without any problem, I could have never have done that with an m chassis,lol,
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Old 05-28-2018, 01:26 AM
  #680  
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Default Ride BRZ on M07 v M03

My enquiry is twofold, M07 and M03, as the most M07 folk will be ex M03. I think the stiffer spring comment also answers some of the riddle in both cases.

The M07 has been magic on our home track, straight out the box, although our track does not have have chicanes and grass run off like the track we visited yesterday for our provincials.

The track was heavily sugared and our M07 cars extremely nervous and unpredictable, awful. Our local yokel practice frowns upon non scale rear wings and was the only quick fix that locked down the M07 rear. Switching to S grips helped a fair bit but the traction changed significantly through the course of the day and the M07 guys were at sea in the final after initially qualifying well.

I quickly reverted to my trusty old M03 with Ride fronts and Shimizu rears and no such issues whatsoever. I had missed practice and it took all day to improve from qualifying sixth out of ten to finishing third overall, with a third and second in the two finals, so well pleased with the old M03.

What made a helluva impression on me was taking the lead when the local winning top gun had an off in to the unforgiving grass, only to have him absolutely blitz me through the chicane in the pic below, both of us running SWB M03 with Mini shells. That really got my attention and he explained that he was running Xray springs all round on the M03 and was able to keep full throttle through the chicane! The pic illustrates what a feat that is, I still find it hard to comprehend but clearly springs are an area to work on with both the M03 and M07.

Whilst improving the M03 is a bit redundant I would like some advice on locking down the M07 on asphalt without resorting to non scale wings, all advice appreciated.

Kind regards
Dave





[QUOTE=freaky321;15224871]Still driving with an spool
I have found my solution,harder front springs and also shocks at the shock tower 1 hole more to the outside

We can use wings attached to the body so, a wing at the back and the back of the car is easy to drive
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:30 AM
  #681  
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I seem to have killed this thread - please someone else post and get it back to life.....
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:16 AM
  #682  
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If it were a class here, I'd be racing mine. But.. it's not. :-(
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:55 PM
  #683  
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Originally Posted by iti20090
I seem to have killed this thread - please someone else post and get it back to life.....
I was wondering who farted.
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:55 PM
  #684  
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Anyone have firsthand experience with an M07 vs M06 on medium to high grip carpet?
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Old 06-18-2018, 11:23 PM
  #685  
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Just built a new M-07 Chassis for the TCS event. What traction compound does everyone run for outdoor asphalt?
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:01 AM
  #686  
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If anyone is interested, I will be listing a fully optioned TCS legal M-07 in the F/S section today or tomorrow.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:37 AM
  #687  
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Originally Posted by racerx805
Just built a new M-07 Chassis for the TCS event. What traction compound does everyone run for outdoor asphalt?
I run Paragon fx2 on mine.
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:15 AM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by racerx805
Just built a new M-07 Chassis for the TCS event. What traction compound does everyone run for outdoor asphalt?
Make sure to check with the track. Even some outdoor tracks spec a compound. If they do not, Paragon FX2 works great.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:35 PM
  #689  
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That's a nice looking track. I'd like to drive there.
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Old 06-23-2018, 09:11 AM
  #690  
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Sorry if this has been mentioned in the last 687 posts, but I found the diff to be too tight. That is, my low-grip outdoor track needs a loose diff in the front. To tune the front end I started with the kit goopy oil, then went lighter and eventually went with no oil. Results were the same with each. That is, the diff was just as stiff, no matter which oil was used. It turns out (at least on my kit) the washers were too thick. All the stiffness was being caused by binding.
Probably everyone here is on high-grip surface. But if anyone is on low grip, I'd build the diff without any oil to make sure it is loose before proceeding with filling it with oil.
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