759LikesMugen MTC1
03-13-2018, 09:34 AM - Wikipost
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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:
MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site. Correction for the manual   The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined. 64p = 127 to 164 total teeth  48p = 95 to 120 total teeth  People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear: 1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.  2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw  3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit. Make the same with the second free Thread.  4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder. Now you see two marks absolutely central.  5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places  6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.  Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern 1. Axon 2. Panaracer Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws): When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic. Hara's Setup  Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup 
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01-22-2018, 12:28 PM
#1261
I have noticed that the axle bearings (5x10x4) "NMB" are very high quality and I'd like to use them on all my cars - anyone know of an alternative source or the who the OEM manufacture is for these bearings?
01-22-2018, 12:59 PM
#1263
These Mugen NMB bearings are on a different level than anything I've had before - they look and feel like they are formed from solid chrome by a Greek God.
01-22-2018, 01:20 PM
#1264
Currently $3.50USD a piece 
01-22-2018, 03:16 PM
#1266
LOL good point.
01-24-2018, 10:33 AM
#1267
Tech Adept
Hi all,
I finally managed the pull out the spider gears from the the diff case, thanks for all the help?
I have another question, does anybody now the length of the front driveshafts? Is it 52? And... is there any compatible driverhafts? Perhaps the XRay T4 52mm driveshafts?
Thank you in advance
I finally managed the pull out the spider gears from the the diff case, thanks for all the help?
I have another question, does anybody now the length of the front driveshafts? Is it 52? And... is there any compatible driverhafts? Perhaps the XRay T4 52mm driveshafts?
Thank you in advance
02-03-2018, 03:01 PM
#1269
The reason this car isn't as upset from road imperfections/rumble strips as other cars is because of the flat arms and how they don't "bind" during roll motion. I've seconded the notion that this car had roll centres too low but now I can say with a great amount of certainty that to make this car more consistent in it's ability to generate grip is to increase camber gain during roll (shorter links) or prevent roll (thicker roll bars).
Other thing from your post is that high diffs have higher corner speed, based on your feedback the car is unsticking one end by overloading the tires (going by experience). By your feedback the grip generated with lower diffs is actually higher but the tires have too much slip angle to the load they now have (a lower car has less weight transfer during transients) so one has to work on toe angles first for example (have you tried lower diffs with less rear toe? I have a hunch
).
02-04-2018, 02:20 PM
#1270
Sorry to piggyback on your post but I have to share stuff I've learnt since the last time I've been here.
The reason this car isn't as upset from road imperfections/rumble strips as other cars is because of the flat arms and how they don't "bind" during roll motion. I've seconded the notion that this car had roll centres too low but now I can say with a great amount of certainty that to make this car more consistent in it's ability to generate grip is to increase camber gain during roll (shorter links) or prevent roll (thicker roll bars).
The reason this car isn't as upset from road imperfections/rumble strips as other cars is because of the flat arms and how they don't "bind" during roll motion. I've seconded the notion that this car had roll centres too low but now I can say with a great amount of certainty that to make this car more consistent in it's ability to generate grip is to increase camber gain during roll (shorter links) or prevent roll (thicker roll bars).
I have actually also tried massively raising the rear roll centre (which is low IMO), but the car became a horrible pile of puss to drive, so went back to the current heights.
Other thing from your post is that high diffs have higher corner speed, based on your feedback the car is unsticking one end by overloading the tires (going by experience). By your feedback the grip generated with lower diffs is actually higher but the tires have too much slip angle to the load they now have (a lower car has less weight transfer during transients) so one has to work on toe angles first for example (have you tried lower diffs with less rear toe? I have a hunch ).
).
Geometry can't solve everything, there are numerous other factors to consider, like chassis flex, springs and damping. It's just one contributory factor to the overall setup.
02-04-2018, 03:12 PM
#1271
That may be a factor (and I actually don't think the arms are that level, having measured it up for Crew Chief), but my over riding thought is it is the dampers having a bigger influence. There is 3mm more stroke, and about 4mm more depth in the body than the latest T4 ULPS, which will have a massive influence on how the car reacts to bumps. And it shows on track, IMO.
I have actually also tried massively raising the rear roll centre (which is low IMO), but the car became a horrible pile of puss to drive, so went back to the current heights.
I'm already running 2.5° with the low diffs, which with mod, you don't need less, as you simply loose traction. The bigger influence on the low diffs will be the driveshaft angle. in the low positions they are very angled. And even the high position is lower than a T4's high.
Geometry can't solve everything, there are numerous other factors to consider, like chassis flex, springs and damping. It's just one contributory factor to the overall setup.
I have actually also tried massively raising the rear roll centre (which is low IMO), but the car became a horrible pile of puss to drive, so went back to the current heights.
I'm already running 2.5° with the low diffs, which with mod, you don't need less, as you simply loose traction. The bigger influence on the low diffs will be the driveshaft angle. in the low positions they are very angled. And even the high position is lower than a T4's high.
Geometry can't solve everything, there are numerous other factors to consider, like chassis flex, springs and damping. It's just one contributory factor to the overall setup.
I just wanted to speed up development of this car using your feedback, it's a fine machine and Mugen is one of the brands that deserves all the help I can give.
