8LikesNEW MTS/RACE OPT 4WD MINI
03-29-2017, 01:27 PM
#1
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
NEW MTS/RACE OPT 4WD MINI
New Release from MTS. At a guess I'd say pricing will be around $350USD or so? Here's what MTS say about it.
MTS 4WD Mini Conversion Kit (for MTS T2 only) is coming soon!!
With 2 package version for sale:
1. MTS T2 car kit+ Mini 4WD conversion kit
2. Mini 4WD conversion kit only
MTS 4WD Mini Conversion Kit (for MTS T2 only) is coming soon!!
With 2 package version for sale:
1. MTS T2 car kit+ Mini 4WD conversion kit
2. Mini 4WD conversion kit only
04-12-2017, 10:41 PM
#2
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Just picked one of these up. The locals in Hong Kong are running these 13.5T boosted!
I'll have to share more details e.g. build, maintenance, setup as I come across them. I have already been told the stock shocks are a bit leaky but the design seems pretty cool!
I'll have to share more details e.g. build, maintenance, setup as I come across them. I have already been told the stock shocks are a bit leaky but the design seems pretty cool!
04-12-2017, 10:59 PM
#3
Looks good. Used to run the 4WD mini class a lot a few years ago. I heard it uses TOP sabre mini suspension parts.
04-13-2017, 12:00 AM
#4
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Correct Dan, 100% Top.
04-17-2017, 11:44 PM
#5
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
So I've completed the conversion from the touring to mini and here are some thoughts ... but before I do that I should highlight that this is by far not recommended for any beginner to tackle!
The instructions are non-existent for the conversion so you need to know your way around a touring car pretty well.
Gear Diff - it's 'based' off the Xray T4 diff but is super notchy. I sanded down the crown bevel gears to approximated 3.7mm. Still a little bit notchy but satisfactory.
Shims/Washers - The shims supplied not really great. Some of the additional washers in my pack didn't have the ID drilled out enough for the hinge pins. I raided my own stash of washers
Suspension Arms - Needed reaming out - these were a bit too tight for my liking.
Shocks - These are a bit weird. There is a large clear oring on the top of the shock body, between the body and the white delrin? cap. I can't see this really working so I've removed that oring.
In the shock cap itself, there's a space for the top oring that should seal the top of the shock - this space is too small for the oring. I wanted to change the clear o-rings to kyosho red x-rings but no cigar. Maybe I could get away with AE clear x-rings because they are softer but I'll try that another day.
No idea what the stock shock oil is but seems way too light too. I'll try run with the stock oils and see how it goes before replacing. It could also be a case of the piston being badly matched (in terms of diameter) with the shock body. Could check if these can get replaced with the X-ray pistons.
Drive Axles/Dogbones - I've set the car WB for 225MM. Using the stock blades, the blades dig into the inner of the drive cup. Not sure how this will pan out once the car is on the track but the locals here seem to have this car dialed.
It's far from the experience I had with my Spice BD7 mini conversion but determined to try make this work and see how it goes.
Are you picking one of these up by any chance, Tony G?
The instructions are non-existent for the conversion so you need to know your way around a touring car pretty well.
Gear Diff - it's 'based' off the Xray T4 diff but is super notchy. I sanded down the crown bevel gears to approximated 3.7mm. Still a little bit notchy but satisfactory.
Shims/Washers - The shims supplied not really great. Some of the additional washers in my pack didn't have the ID drilled out enough for the hinge pins. I raided my own stash of washers
Suspension Arms - Needed reaming out - these were a bit too tight for my liking.
Shocks - These are a bit weird. There is a large clear oring on the top of the shock body, between the body and the white delrin? cap. I can't see this really working so I've removed that oring.
In the shock cap itself, there's a space for the top oring that should seal the top of the shock - this space is too small for the oring. I wanted to change the clear o-rings to kyosho red x-rings but no cigar. Maybe I could get away with AE clear x-rings because they are softer but I'll try that another day.
No idea what the stock shock oil is but seems way too light too. I'll try run with the stock oils and see how it goes before replacing. It could also be a case of the piston being badly matched (in terms of diameter) with the shock body. Could check if these can get replaced with the X-ray pistons.
Drive Axles/Dogbones - I've set the car WB for 225MM. Using the stock blades, the blades dig into the inner of the drive cup. Not sure how this will pan out once the car is on the track but the locals here seem to have this car dialed.
It's far from the experience I had with my Spice BD7 mini conversion but determined to try make this work and see how it goes.
Are you picking one of these up by any chance, Tony G?
04-18-2017, 12:05 AM
#6
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Did you need to ask?....
I probably wont do the build though. I might try and farm it out to Brad given he runs the T2 in Mod Touring anyway.
I probably wont do the build though. I might try and farm it out to Brad given he runs the T2 in Mod Touring anyway.
05-20-2017, 10:50 PM
#7
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
So got this out on the track last night and felt pretty good using below as base setup.
225mm Wheelbase
2.4mm anti-twist bars
Tamiya new-gen Mazda Mx5 with Ride BRZ rear wing
Team Powers 36R premounts
Sauced and heated with MR33 10 minutes all 4 corners
13.5T boosted - 101T, 41T
Front:
Shock - 500W, Stock spring, 3rd hole
ARB - Stock
Droop - 4mm (on 10mm blocks) measured under the arm
Roll Center - 2mm shims on caster block, no shims on bulk head, shortest link on bulk head.
Steering - Flipped carbon extensions on to top. No bumpsteer or ackerman shims. Used middle hole on steering arm ackerman. 1mm shim under steering posts
Toe - 1 degree out
Back
Shock - 500W, Stock spring, 3rd hole
ARB - Stock
Droop - 4mm (on 10mm blocks) measured under the arm
Roll Center - 2mm shims on hub, no shims on bulk head, shortest link on bulk head, used outer hole on hub
Toe - 3 degrees
Diff - 5K
Surprisingly good. Had a bit of trouble with the steering horn stripping and a couple things (below) so I didn't get much time to experiment with car's settings. Some of my friends at TRC in Hong Kong have been messing with this car a while and believe the above is a good base line.
https://www.facebook.com/rctecracing...579033/?type=3
Hopefully next weekend I can play around a bit with the setup a bit more. Maybe reduce some toe on the rear
Also were lots of reports of the shocks leaking. Given the work I did on the shocks in the post above no leaky shocks! There is a bit of air in one of them but I think that was there before.
In terms of quality of the kit, there are a couple of pit falls:
Rear pivot pins are a weak point. They don't bend - they snap. Hope you can find an alternative!
The grub screws in the CVDs do loosen! I think I failed to loctite mine and lost a couple of pins and grub screws last night.
Edit: There's also a big left/right weight difference. I haven't messed with it yet but my mates have started to put lead on the battery side to compensate!
225mm Wheelbase
2.4mm anti-twist bars
Tamiya new-gen Mazda Mx5 with Ride BRZ rear wing
Team Powers 36R premounts
Sauced and heated with MR33 10 minutes all 4 corners
13.5T boosted - 101T, 41T
Front:
Shock - 500W, Stock spring, 3rd hole
ARB - Stock
Droop - 4mm (on 10mm blocks) measured under the arm
Roll Center - 2mm shims on caster block, no shims on bulk head, shortest link on bulk head.
Steering - Flipped carbon extensions on to top. No bumpsteer or ackerman shims. Used middle hole on steering arm ackerman. 1mm shim under steering posts
Toe - 1 degree out
Back
Shock - 500W, Stock spring, 3rd hole
ARB - Stock
Droop - 4mm (on 10mm blocks) measured under the arm
Roll Center - 2mm shims on hub, no shims on bulk head, shortest link on bulk head, used outer hole on hub
Toe - 3 degrees
Diff - 5K
Surprisingly good. Had a bit of trouble with the steering horn stripping and a couple things (below) so I didn't get much time to experiment with car's settings. Some of my friends at TRC in Hong Kong have been messing with this car a while and believe the above is a good base line.
https://www.facebook.com/rctecracing...579033/?type=3
Hopefully next weekend I can play around a bit with the setup a bit more. Maybe reduce some toe on the rear
Also were lots of reports of the shocks leaking. Given the work I did on the shocks in the post above no leaky shocks! There is a bit of air in one of them but I think that was there before.
In terms of quality of the kit, there are a couple of pit falls:
Rear pivot pins are a weak point. They don't bend - they snap. Hope you can find an alternative!
The grub screws in the CVDs do loosen! I think I failed to loctite mine and lost a couple of pins and grub screws last night.
Edit: There's also a big left/right weight difference. I haven't messed with it yet but my mates have started to put lead on the battery side to compensate!
05-21-2017, 02:55 PM
#8
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Sadly mine is 'lost in transit' somewhere between here and HK. Australia Post don't have it and HK Post don't have it. And...neither do I!
12-18-2017, 07:52 AM
#10
So that's a conversion kit from MTS2?
12-18-2017, 05:24 PM
#12
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
The 4wd M cars really are a lot of fun! The MTS T2 Mini can hold its own against regular 1/10 no probs up to at least 13.5T boosted.
The bunch of mates I usually run with have just finished spending a massive amount of time on 17.5T blinky GT and sentiment at the moments seems to be to dig the 4 wheel m-chassis back out for some fun
The bunch of mates I usually run with have just finished spending a massive amount of time on 17.5T blinky GT and sentiment at the moments seems to be to dig the 4 wheel m-chassis back out for some fun
12-22-2017, 01:12 PM
#13
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
12-22-2017, 03:17 PM
#14
I think you are missing the rear blades... Could be a problem...
12-22-2017, 03:21 PM
#15
So I've completed the conversion from the touring to mini and here are some thoughts ... but before I do that I should highlight that this is by far not recommended for any beginner to tackle!
The instructions are non-existent for the conversion so you need to know your way around a touring car pretty well.
Gear Diff - it's 'based' off the Xray T4 diff but is super notchy. I sanded down the crown bevel gears to approximated 3.7mm. Still a little bit notchy but satisfactory.
Shims/Washers - The shims supplied not really great. Some of the additional washers in my pack didn't have the ID drilled out enough for the hinge pins. I raided my own stash of washers
Suspension Arms - Needed reaming out - these were a bit too tight for my liking.
Shocks - These are a bit weird. There is a large clear oring on the top of the shock body, between the body and the white delrin? cap. I can't see this really working so I've removed that oring.
In the shock cap itself, there's a space for the top oring that should seal the top of the shock - this space is too small for the oring. I wanted to change the clear o-rings to kyosho red x-rings but no cigar. Maybe I could get away with AE clear x-rings because they are softer but I'll try that another day.
No idea what the stock shock oil is but seems way too light too. I'll try run with the stock oils and see how it goes before replacing. It could also be a case of the piston being badly matched (in terms of diameter) with the shock body. Could check if these can get replaced with the X-ray pistons.
Drive Axles/Dogbones - I've set the car WB for 225MM. Using the stock blades, the blades dig into the inner of the drive cup. Not sure how this will pan out once the car is on the track but the locals here seem to have this car dialed.
It's far from the experience I had with my Spice BD7 mini conversion but determined to try make this work and see how it goes.
Are you picking one of these up by any chance, Tony G?
The instructions are non-existent for the conversion so you need to know your way around a touring car pretty well.
Gear Diff - it's 'based' off the Xray T4 diff but is super notchy. I sanded down the crown bevel gears to approximated 3.7mm. Still a little bit notchy but satisfactory.
Shims/Washers - The shims supplied not really great. Some of the additional washers in my pack didn't have the ID drilled out enough for the hinge pins. I raided my own stash of washers
Suspension Arms - Needed reaming out - these were a bit too tight for my liking.
Shocks - These are a bit weird. There is a large clear oring on the top of the shock body, between the body and the white delrin? cap. I can't see this really working so I've removed that oring.
In the shock cap itself, there's a space for the top oring that should seal the top of the shock - this space is too small for the oring. I wanted to change the clear o-rings to kyosho red x-rings but no cigar. Maybe I could get away with AE clear x-rings because they are softer but I'll try that another day.
No idea what the stock shock oil is but seems way too light too. I'll try run with the stock oils and see how it goes before replacing. It could also be a case of the piston being badly matched (in terms of diameter) with the shock body. Could check if these can get replaced with the X-ray pistons.
Drive Axles/Dogbones - I've set the car WB for 225MM. Using the stock blades, the blades dig into the inner of the drive cup. Not sure how this will pan out once the car is on the track but the locals here seem to have this car dialed.
It's far from the experience I had with my Spice BD7 mini conversion but determined to try make this work and see how it goes.
Are you picking one of these up by any chance, Tony G?
By the way I'm using them with original o-rings on one of my touring cars and they are not leaking more than my Roche...