Tamiya Euro Truck Class
#346
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
I don’t get it is a bone stock class build and set it up as instructions
#347
I heard putting the left front tire in the right front side for 3 seconds then back to the left side works very well but you have to hold the truck upside down while doing jumping Jax . (Insert sarcasm here)
I don’t get it is a bone stock class build and set it up as instructions
I don’t get it is a bone stock class build and set it up as instructions
#348
Ghosty, can you describe the driving style a bit more for those of us slow guys. So far my best at your track actually in practice has been a 14.5, which near as I can tell puts me about 1 - 1.5 secs. off the fast guys on average. I am not the best driver hence why I am asking.
I'd say my best 14.5 was kind of a point and shoot style, full throttle heading into turn hard brake coast through turn and throttle out. The infield it tough though.
I'd say my best 14.5 was kind of a point and shoot style, full throttle heading into turn hard brake coast through turn and throttle out. The infield it tough though.
#349
Ghosty, can you describe the driving style a bit more for those of us slow guys. So far my best at your track actually in practice has been a 14.5, which near as I can tell puts me about 1 - 1.5 secs. off the fast guys on average. I am not the best driver hence why I am asking.
I'd say my best 14.5 was kind of a point and shoot style, full throttle heading into turn hard brake coast through turn and throttle out. The infield it tough though.
I'd say my best 14.5 was kind of a point and shoot style, full throttle heading into turn hard brake coast through turn and throttle out. The infield it tough though.
#350
Thanks, I noticed that, if I could string together consistent 14.5's (I can't yet) I'd be in thick of it which is fine by me. Thanks.
#351
Make sure you motor is clean and has fresh oil... it’s amazing how they like to be clean. A good 500-1000 rpm
#352
#353
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
There's not a whole lot of secrets to making these trucks work well, even on black carpet. Most of them have already been mentioned in this thread numerous times-
1. Glue the very edge of the sidewall. There's a texture on the tire in the area that I'm referring to. This helps on both grey and black carpet.
2. Water dip the motor to break it in.
3. If bearings are the only hopup, remove the grease from them and use really thin bearing oil.
4. Don't just slap the kit together. Just because it's a cheap kit doesn't mean that it deserves a cheap build. Make sure that everything rotates and moves freely like you would with any other racing kit.
5. Drill the body holes so that the body can float around on the post.
6. On the front body clips, don't use the hole closest to the body. Use one hole up so the body can bounce without taking the chassis with it.
Bonus tip- Don't overdrive the things. You can't pitch these things into a turn or flog them around the track and expect them to handle like a regular touring car. Use the brakes and baby them through the turns. Smooth is fast.
I've tried the upside down shock thing, and the fluid still leaks out because the top end is still 3 pieces. Even with 100k in them, it really didn't help the handling compared to the stuff above. Also, the more the trucks are raced, the better they handle. I think it's the slop that develops absorbing some of the bouncing and vibrations. My son's truck is about 6 months old, and it handles great. People at Minnreg kept asking me what I did to the truck to make it handle and stop bouncing this past weekend, but I haven't done anything other than the info above.
K.I.S.S. method prevails in this class.
(My truck is the red/yellow/blue RedBull scheme)
1. Glue the very edge of the sidewall. There's a texture on the tire in the area that I'm referring to. This helps on both grey and black carpet.
2. Water dip the motor to break it in.
3. If bearings are the only hopup, remove the grease from them and use really thin bearing oil.
4. Don't just slap the kit together. Just because it's a cheap kit doesn't mean that it deserves a cheap build. Make sure that everything rotates and moves freely like you would with any other racing kit.
5. Drill the body holes so that the body can float around on the post.
6. On the front body clips, don't use the hole closest to the body. Use one hole up so the body can bounce without taking the chassis with it.
Bonus tip- Don't overdrive the things. You can't pitch these things into a turn or flog them around the track and expect them to handle like a regular touring car. Use the brakes and baby them through the turns. Smooth is fast.
I've tried the upside down shock thing, and the fluid still leaks out because the top end is still 3 pieces. Even with 100k in them, it really didn't help the handling compared to the stuff above. Also, the more the trucks are raced, the better they handle. I think it's the slop that develops absorbing some of the bouncing and vibrations. My son's truck is about 6 months old, and it handles great. People at Minnreg kept asking me what I did to the truck to make it handle and stop bouncing this past weekend, but I haven't done anything other than the info above.
K.I.S.S. method prevails in this class.
+ YouTube Video | |
(My truck is the red/yellow/blue RedBull scheme)
#354
Serzoni,
-you said it all perfectly!
The big thing is driver skill too. I swear our fastest guys could get anything around the track faster than anyone else. I've watched them do it over and over in every class. Its no different in the truck class. They just drive more consistently and a shorter line. In fact I even saw our top driver out drive another guy who had a brushless setup in his Euro truck. It was our first race of the season, he was a new guy and didn't know the rules and somehow no one tech'd his truck. He had nice oil filled shocks, a brushless 21.5t and some higher CC rated lipo ...his truck was super fast. You could see that it wasn't stock and it was screaming on the track. Everyone called foul and we knew, (it was all handled professionally), yet our top drive w/ the bone stock Truck was still out driving him, really creating distance through all the turns. It was actually quite cool to watch as it was true driver skill that out did hop ups. (That other driver since got his truck to stock setup and is a super cool guy, he just didn't know and no one told him).
-you said it all perfectly!
The big thing is driver skill too. I swear our fastest guys could get anything around the track faster than anyone else. I've watched them do it over and over in every class. Its no different in the truck class. They just drive more consistently and a shorter line. In fact I even saw our top driver out drive another guy who had a brushless setup in his Euro truck. It was our first race of the season, he was a new guy and didn't know the rules and somehow no one tech'd his truck. He had nice oil filled shocks, a brushless 21.5t and some higher CC rated lipo ...his truck was super fast. You could see that it wasn't stock and it was screaming on the track. Everyone called foul and we knew, (it was all handled professionally), yet our top drive w/ the bone stock Truck was still out driving him, really creating distance through all the turns. It was actually quite cool to watch as it was true driver skill that out did hop ups. (That other driver since got his truck to stock setup and is a super cool guy, he just didn't know and no one told him).
#355
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Serzoni,
-you said it all perfectly!
The big thing is driver skill too. I swear our fastest guys could get anything around the track faster than anyone else. I've watched them do it over and over in every class. Its no different in the truck class. They just drive more consistently and a shorter line. In fact I even saw our top driver out drive another guy who had a brushless setup in his Euro truck. It was our first race of the season, he was a new guy and didn't know the rules and somehow no one tech'd his truck. He had nice oil filled shocks, a brushless 21.5t and some higher CC rated lipo ...his truck was super fast. You could see that it wasn't stock and it was screaming on the track. Everyone called foul and we knew, (it was all handled professionally), yet our top drive w/ the bone stock Truck was still out driving him, really creating distance through all the turns. It was actually quite cool to watch as it was true driver skill that out did hop ups. (That other driver since got his truck to stock setup and is a super cool guy, he just didn't know and no one told him).
-you said it all perfectly!
The big thing is driver skill too. I swear our fastest guys could get anything around the track faster than anyone else. I've watched them do it over and over in every class. Its no different in the truck class. They just drive more consistently and a shorter line. In fact I even saw our top driver out drive another guy who had a brushless setup in his Euro truck. It was our first race of the season, he was a new guy and didn't know the rules and somehow no one tech'd his truck. He had nice oil filled shocks, a brushless 21.5t and some higher CC rated lipo ...his truck was super fast. You could see that it wasn't stock and it was screaming on the track. Everyone called foul and we knew, (it was all handled professionally), yet our top drive w/ the bone stock Truck was still out driving him, really creating distance through all the turns. It was actually quite cool to watch as it was true driver skill that out did hop ups. (That other driver since got his truck to stock setup and is a super cool guy, he just didn't know and no one told him).
Lol jk
#356
I totally get it, I could put a 8.5T in it and still not be the track ringers, just wanted to make sure was not missing anything obvious and it does not seem so other than my driving.
#358
I have been tempted just to build a mod one up to see if it would be faster but since I can barely keep it on 4 wheels now I worry it would be slower.
#359