Tamiya Euro Truck Class
#181
Do you know the part # for the lower body, and/or its availability? Thanks.
#188
Okay, I have two full race days under my belt on this car and plenty of practice.
My observations,
Friction damper position (inner vs outer hole and every combo -front inner rear outer, and vice-versa) doesn't not seem to make a difference. I raced w/ some fast guys, the top two both ran different damper positions. I have tried all and can't tell a difference.
Heavy oil vs light oil on friction dampers. I have tried no oil, thin grease and heavy 1mil tacky diff oil. Top drivers at our track went for thin smooth NOT tacky or thick. I'd say that using tacky 1mil diff was bad and didn't allow the car's dampers to actually do their thing. Made the ride too hard and thus extra bouncy.
Driving style seems to be key. Hard exhilaration then jam on the breaks before the turn then hard exhilaration again. I avoid most of the bouncies w/ this technique. Coming in to turns w/ a ton of speed does not seem to work well, otherwise you hop all over the place. I have my brakes set to about 60% of full breaking, thus my brakes are a bit "soft" ...so it doesn't stop in place yet slows nicely when I "jam" the brakes.
I am running my car box stock w/ exception of bearings (per rules for the various clubs I've run with). I've heard rumor of people cheating around the pits, and have had other drivers recommend I try things that are not legal w/ my truck. I don't care to take part in any of that so won't even mention what techniques I've heard. -but I am sure people are cheating. I'd rather lose honestly than win dishonestly.
-----
I am running the front diff w/ extra TAmiya anti wear grease and the rear w/ the recommended amount. I plan on trying various weights in the diff and see how that helps/hinders.
--
keep in mind this is just my experience and my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
I'd love to hear what works w/ the diff if anyone has tried (no oil, med, thick -front/rear)?
My observations,
Friction damper position (inner vs outer hole and every combo -front inner rear outer, and vice-versa) doesn't not seem to make a difference. I raced w/ some fast guys, the top two both ran different damper positions. I have tried all and can't tell a difference.
Heavy oil vs light oil on friction dampers. I have tried no oil, thin grease and heavy 1mil tacky diff oil. Top drivers at our track went for thin smooth NOT tacky or thick. I'd say that using tacky 1mil diff was bad and didn't allow the car's dampers to actually do their thing. Made the ride too hard and thus extra bouncy.
Driving style seems to be key. Hard exhilaration then jam on the breaks before the turn then hard exhilaration again. I avoid most of the bouncies w/ this technique. Coming in to turns w/ a ton of speed does not seem to work well, otherwise you hop all over the place. I have my brakes set to about 60% of full breaking, thus my brakes are a bit "soft" ...so it doesn't stop in place yet slows nicely when I "jam" the brakes.
I am running my car box stock w/ exception of bearings (per rules for the various clubs I've run with). I've heard rumor of people cheating around the pits, and have had other drivers recommend I try things that are not legal w/ my truck. I don't care to take part in any of that so won't even mention what techniques I've heard. -but I am sure people are cheating. I'd rather lose honestly than win dishonestly.
-----
I am running the front diff w/ extra TAmiya anti wear grease and the rear w/ the recommended amount. I plan on trying various weights in the diff and see how that helps/hinders.
--
keep in mind this is just my experience and my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
I'd love to hear what works w/ the diff if anyone has tried (no oil, med, thick -front/rear)?
#189
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Okay, I have two full race days under my belt on this car and plenty of practice.
My observations,
Friction damper position (inner vs outer hole and every combo -front inner rear outer, and vice-versa) doesn't not seem to make a difference. I raced w/ some fast guys, the top two both ran different damper positions. I have tried all and can't tell a difference.
Heavy oil vs light oil on friction dampers. I have tried no oil, thin grease and heavy 1mil tacky diff oil. Top drivers at our track went for thin smooth NOT tacky or thick. I'd say that using tacky 1mil diff was bad and didn't allow the car's dampers to actually do their thing. Made the ride too hard and thus extra bouncy.
Driving style seems to be key. Hard exhilaration then jam on the breaks before the turn then hard exhilaration again. I avoid most of the bouncies w/ this technique. Coming in to turns w/ a ton of speed does not seem to work well, otherwise you hop all over the place. I have my brakes set to about 60% of full breaking, thus my brakes are a bit "soft" ...so it doesn't stop in place yet slows nicely when I "jam" the brakes.
I am running my car box stock w/ exception of bearings (per rules for the various clubs I've run with). I've heard rumor of people cheating around the pits, and have had other drivers recommend I try things that are not legal w/ my truck. I don't care to take part in any of that so won't even mention what techniques I've heard. -but I am sure people are cheating. I'd rather lose honestly than win dishonestly.
-----
I am running the front diff w/ extra TAmiya anti wear grease and the rear w/ the recommended amount. I plan on trying various weights in the diff and see how that helps/hinders.
--
keep in mind this is just my experience and my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
I'd love to hear what works w/ the diff if anyone has tried (no oil, med, thick -front/rear)?
My observations,
Friction damper position (inner vs outer hole and every combo -front inner rear outer, and vice-versa) doesn't not seem to make a difference. I raced w/ some fast guys, the top two both ran different damper positions. I have tried all and can't tell a difference.
Heavy oil vs light oil on friction dampers. I have tried no oil, thin grease and heavy 1mil tacky diff oil. Top drivers at our track went for thin smooth NOT tacky or thick. I'd say that using tacky 1mil diff was bad and didn't allow the car's dampers to actually do their thing. Made the ride too hard and thus extra bouncy.
Driving style seems to be key. Hard exhilaration then jam on the breaks before the turn then hard exhilaration again. I avoid most of the bouncies w/ this technique. Coming in to turns w/ a ton of speed does not seem to work well, otherwise you hop all over the place. I have my brakes set to about 60% of full breaking, thus my brakes are a bit "soft" ...so it doesn't stop in place yet slows nicely when I "jam" the brakes.
I am running my car box stock w/ exception of bearings (per rules for the various clubs I've run with). I've heard rumor of people cheating around the pits, and have had other drivers recommend I try things that are not legal w/ my truck. I don't care to take part in any of that so won't even mention what techniques I've heard. -but I am sure people are cheating. I'd rather lose honestly than win dishonestly.
-----
I am running the front diff w/ extra TAmiya anti wear grease and the rear w/ the recommended amount. I plan on trying various weights in the diff and see how that helps/hinders.
--
keep in mind this is just my experience and my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
I'd love to hear what works w/ the diff if anyone has tried (no oil, med, thick -front/rear)?
He is my setup I used.
Rear diff AW grease 3/4 full
Rear shock Kyosho 30k diff grease very little. Shock mounted on outer hole.
Front diff 20 million diff oil
Front shocks Kyosho 30k diff grease. Very little.shocks mounted in outer hole.
Also added 64 grams of weight to the battery side.
My wife's truck was setup the same way but with only 14 grams of weight to the battery side.
#190
Hey, Eric it's Jason. My wife and I pit next to you at P1 Sunday.
He is my setup I used.
Rear diff AW grease 3/4 full
Rear shock Kyosho 30k diff grease very little. Shock mounted on outer hole.
Front diff 20 million diff oil
Front shocks Kyosho 30k diff grease. Very little.shocks mounted in outer hole.
Also added 64 grams of weight to the battery side.
My wife's truck was setup the same way but with only 14 grams of weight to the battery side.
He is my setup I used.
Rear diff AW grease 3/4 full
Rear shock Kyosho 30k diff grease very little. Shock mounted on outer hole.
Front diff 20 million diff oil
Front shocks Kyosho 30k diff grease. Very little.shocks mounted in outer hole.
Also added 64 grams of weight to the battery side.
My wife's truck was setup the same way but with only 14 grams of weight to the battery side.
#192
Weight is allowed Really? Almost every club that is racing Hahn trucks atm are under the impression adding weight / balancing or removing weight was a no go. Pretty sure 99% seem to follow box stock with bearings only..
I feel like the weight adding is the gateway to more.... why though.
I feel like the weight adding is the gateway to more.... why though.
#193
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
Okay, I have two full race days under my belt on this car and plenty of practice.
My observations,
Friction damper position (inner vs outer hole and every combo -front inner rear outer, and vice-versa) doesn't not seem to make a difference. I raced w/ some fast guys, the top two both ran different damper positions. I have tried all and can't tell a difference.
Heavy oil vs light oil on friction dampers. I have tried no oil, thin grease and heavy 1mil tacky diff oil. Top drivers at our track went for thin smooth NOT tacky or thick. I'd say that using tacky 1mil diff was bad and didn't allow the car's dampers to actually do their thing. Made the ride too hard and thus extra bouncy.
Driving style seems to be key. Hard exhilaration then jam on the breaks before the turn then hard exhilaration again. I avoid most of the bouncies w/ this technique. Coming in to turns w/ a ton of speed does not seem to work well, otherwise you hop all over the place. I have my brakes set to about 60% of full breaking, thus my brakes are a bit "soft" ...so it doesn't stop in place yet slows nicely when I "jam" the brakes.
I am running my car box stock w/ exception of bearings (per rules for the various clubs I've run with). I've heard rumor of people cheating around the pits, and have had other drivers recommend I try things that are not legal w/ my truck. I don't care to take part in any of that so won't even mention what techniques I've heard. -but I am sure people are cheating. I'd rather lose honestly than win dishonestly.
-----
I am running the front diff w/ extra TAmiya anti wear grease and the rear w/ the recommended amount. I plan on trying various weights in the diff and see how that helps/hinders.
--
keep in mind this is just my experience and my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
I'd love to hear what works w/ the diff if anyone has tried (no oil, med, thick -front/rear)?
My observations,
Friction damper position (inner vs outer hole and every combo -front inner rear outer, and vice-versa) doesn't not seem to make a difference. I raced w/ some fast guys, the top two both ran different damper positions. I have tried all and can't tell a difference.
Heavy oil vs light oil on friction dampers. I have tried no oil, thin grease and heavy 1mil tacky diff oil. Top drivers at our track went for thin smooth NOT tacky or thick. I'd say that using tacky 1mil diff was bad and didn't allow the car's dampers to actually do their thing. Made the ride too hard and thus extra bouncy.
Driving style seems to be key. Hard exhilaration then jam on the breaks before the turn then hard exhilaration again. I avoid most of the bouncies w/ this technique. Coming in to turns w/ a ton of speed does not seem to work well, otherwise you hop all over the place. I have my brakes set to about 60% of full breaking, thus my brakes are a bit "soft" ...so it doesn't stop in place yet slows nicely when I "jam" the brakes.
I am running my car box stock w/ exception of bearings (per rules for the various clubs I've run with). I've heard rumor of people cheating around the pits, and have had other drivers recommend I try things that are not legal w/ my truck. I don't care to take part in any of that so won't even mention what techniques I've heard. -but I am sure people are cheating. I'd rather lose honestly than win dishonestly.
-----
I am running the front diff w/ extra TAmiya anti wear grease and the rear w/ the recommended amount. I plan on trying various weights in the diff and see how that helps/hinders.
--
keep in mind this is just my experience and my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
I'd love to hear what works w/ the diff if anyone has tried (no oil, med, thick -front/rear)?
#194
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Weight is allowed Really? Almost every club that is racing Hahn trucks atm are under the impression adding weight / balancing or removing weight was a no go. Pretty sure 99% seem to follow box stock with bearings only..
I feel like the weight adding is the gateway to more.... why though.
I feel like the weight adding is the gateway to more.... why though.
Last edited by team green; 04-24-2017 at 09:25 PM.
#195
Hello Jason!
You and your wife are fassst! Great job Sunday.
Yeah, I am still getting the hang of driving my truck. -Thank you for the setup help and congratulation on your win and your wife's 3rd place finish. You raced against a fast group of guys, so really impressive run you had.
Hey, shouldn't you be "TeamPink"??!! JK.
You and your wife are fassst! Great job Sunday.
Yeah, I am still getting the hang of driving my truck. -Thank you for the setup help and congratulation on your win and your wife's 3rd place finish. You raced against a fast group of guys, so really impressive run you had.
Hey, shouldn't you be "TeamPink"??!! JK.