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What weight are you aiming for?
TC weight is 1350.... |
Originally Posted by RussF
(Post 14964720)
Got my chassis all assembled and it is indeed heavy on the battery side. It would appear that I need to add about 40 grams to the left or motor side. Problem is that there is no where to add that much weight. If its put in the open spots on the front and back it would maybe need to be as much as 60 grams that close to center. The further out I set the test weight the less I need. 40 grams gets me to about 1375 or so. Thats doable for a ready to race weight. Where can a put that much stick on weight? BTW I dont like stick on, I'd rather have screw mounted so they dont fly off in a wreck. My old TC6-6.2 cars had great spots to mount to and a nice brass weight set. The other solution is maybe a lighter battery. Mine is 315 grams. If it was around 280-290 it would be good. BUT... I dont want to buy new batteries if I can help it.
Something that I thought about was buying the brass left suspension holder and using it to add weight to only the left since they are sold separately. I would guess that these parts are usually used in matched pairs but could I use just the one on the left and keep the aluminum one on the right? I've never seen anybody do that, maybe because it would look bad. If anybody has any help to offer it is much appreciated. Pics of weight locations is a bonus. I add some stick-on weight to the left side of the chassis between the speedo and the motor, usually letting @ 3mm or so hang off the edge of the chassis. I also use heavy TQ 11g wire to help the L/R balance some. I've tried shimming the motor away from the mount before and I have never liked doing that. In fact, the trend lately is to move the motor even more toward the center of the car so shimming that is not ideal to me. I have also considered using the brass RF/L mount only to help with L/R balance, but have not done it. Other than looking a little odd, I don't see why it would be a problem. Those parts are too small to have any real effect on flex or anything. |
Originally Posted by RussF
(Post 14964720)
Got my chassis all assembled and it is indeed heavy on the battery side. It would appear that I need to add about 40 grams to the left or motor side. Problem is that there is no where to add that much weight. If its put in the open spots on the front and back it would maybe need to be as much as 60 grams that close to center. The further out I set the test weight the less I need. 40 grams gets me to about 1375 or so. Thats doable for a ready to race weight. Where can a put that much stick on weight? BTW I dont like stick on, I'd rather have screw mounted so they dont fly off in a wreck. My old TC6-6.2 cars had great spots to mount to and a nice brass weight set. The other solution is maybe a lighter battery. Mine is 315 grams. If it was around 280-290 it would be good. BUT... I dont want to buy new batteries if I can help it.
Something that I thought about was buying the brass left suspension holder and using it to add weight to only the left since they are sold separately. I would guess that these parts are usually used in matched pairs but could I use just the one on the left and keep the aluminum one on the right? I've never seen anybody do that, maybe because it would look bad. If anybody has any help to offer it is much appreciated. Pics of weight locations is a bonus. I sometimes place the stick on weights on the chassis and then fix the receiver and/or speedo on top of the weights. The main thing is to use good double sided tape. This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-...dustrial+Grade |
Originally Posted by cplus
(Post 14964788)
What weight are you aiming for?
TC weight is 1350....
Originally Posted by R Dodge
(Post 14964834)
315g is not bad, my packs are around that. I don't stress over the weight being perfect left to right. I think EA also does not stress over the L/R balance being perfect. I'm sure if I put my car on pins it would fall to the right, but it's not that far off and I'm not Masami :)
I add some stick-on weight to the left side of the chassis between the speedo and the motor, usually letting @ 3mm or so hang off the edge of the chassis. I also use heavy TQ 11g wire to help the L/R balance some. I've tried shimming the motor away from the mount before and I have never liked doing that. In fact, the trend lately is to move the motor even more toward the center of the car so shimming that is not ideal to me. I have also considered using the brass RF/L mount only to help with L/R balance, but have not done it. Other than looking a little odd, I don't see why it would be a problem. Those parts are too small to have any real effect on flex or anything. I was able to get it pretty close on the pins by adding 20g to the front and 30g to the rear. I think I will replace the AE weights with some low flat ones I can cover with some carbon fiber sticker so they dont show. I really hate stick on though.I think I will get the RF/L brass mount so I can get rid of one of the stacked weights.
Originally Posted by godzukihop
(Post 14964874)
I place the receiver and speedo as far left as possible.
I sometimes place the stick on weights on the chassis and then fix the receiver and/or speedo on top of the weights. The main thing is to use good double sided tape. This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-...dustrial+Grade This is what I ended up doing for the weights for now. Like I said I will probably replace them later with ones that dont stand out like neon lights on the chassis. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psyoskmj6c.jpg For what its worth and realizing its not very precise this is a little jig I set up to check corner weight with one scale. I set the balance pins on some batteries and put the scale under each tire and "dropped" the car down on that side. These are the results. Its pretty close all around. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psohwzmss9.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psw9sb48ti.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psrndewcaz.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psdsudixww.jpg |
I like these for stick-on weights:
https://www.apexrc.com/products/3rac...-10g-3rac-bw04 These are also nice and I think they fit under the center brace: https://www.apexrc.com/products/pro-...3-pack-ps-bw8s |
RussF - looks like I'm using identical electronics as you have installed. Try rotating your receiver 90 degrees and move the transponder to the front bumper or on top of the steering servo. If you rotate and push the RX up to the steering servo, you should be able to add weight in-between the RX and the ESC.
Bruce |
Originally Posted by R Dodge
(Post 14965078)
I like these for stick-on weights:
https://www.apexrc.com/products/3rac...-10g-3rac-bw04 These are also nice and I think they fit under the center brace: https://www.apexrc.com/products/pro-...3-pack-ps-bw8s
Originally Posted by belewis01
(Post 14965090)
RussF - looks like I'm using identical electronics as you have installed. Try rotating your receiver 90 degrees and move the transponder to the front bumper or on top of the steering servo. If you rotate and push the RX up to the steering servo, you should be able to add weight in-between the RX and the ESC.
Bruce |
Originally Posted by R Dodge
(Post 14963073)
I don't notice it. Maybe I would if I did a back-to-back. Might be something worth looking into.
Yea, that is the part number I ordered. I think new ones are 2-hole. Both of the horns I received were 2-hole.
All in all I will stick with this one for the time being + it looks sexy. :) |
Those 3racing weights are good. I have a roll of 3M tape that is same as what is on the weights - so can reuse them easy.
It looks like you have too much on the left side based on those scales?? Also, having the weight out so far - I do t get that. Hearing people shimming motors out seems counter productive to me as well. Wait for the new car - they will be putting the motor even closer to the centre.... As for transponder - putting in the bumper is very old school. Doesn't need to go there. I have mine mounted right next to the receiver - flat on the chassis, behind the servo - works well. Where you have it is fine - just need to clean up your wiring ;) |
Not sure I understand all this use of scales lately to measure corner weights of a car sitting on springs. What you're really measuring is the relative loading of the springs, not the actual dead weight of that corner of the chassis. I'd rather just use a tweak bar if i need to check that, its much easier. But even then, that should be a finite adjustment, not adjusting where you put balance weight. If you really want to use scales I think you should replace the shocks with solid links and keep the chassis as close to level as possible.
I just think time is better spent making sure the chassis isn't tweaked, suspension is properly aligned and shocks are as close as possible to being the exact same length so you can get the spring loading the same for the left and right at either end of the chassis. I'm probably wrong, but that's my 2 cents. |
Originally Posted by mikel33
(Post 14966569)
Not sure I understand all this use of scales lately to measure corner weights of a car sitting on springs. What you're really measuring is the relative loading of the springs, not the actual dead weight of that corner of the chassis. I'd rather just use a tweak bar if i need to check that, its much easier. But even then, that should be a finite adjustment, not adjusting where you put balance weight. If you really want to use scales I think you should replace the shocks with solid links and keep the chassis as close to level as possible.
I just think time is better spent making sure the chassis isn't tweaked, suspension is properly aligned and shocks are as close as possible to being the exact same length so you can get the spring loading the same for the left and right at either end of the chassis. I'm probably wrong, but that's my 2 cents. In rc racing, putting preload on springs directly effect ride heights, so preloads cannot be used as a tuning tool as much as I use them for the bigger cars. However, it is useful to corner weight your car to ensure proper balance. I typically "static" weight the car on balance pegs for side to side-electronics setup. Corner weight scaling or "dynamic" scaling as I call it, takes into consideration the front to back weight distribution as well as tweak, that can be introduced by variables, such as spring preload, improper shock length, sway bar tweak, chassis tweak, top deck tweak, and etc. |
very good idea
Originally Posted by RussF
(Post 14963337)
I found a kind of cool low buck solution to the fan mount. I used an Associated ball stud end to hold the fan. I put a screw through the left layshaft hole and another through the eyelet of the ball end with a small M3 nut on the other side. It was super simple and easy. Check it out.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psbjsf2zkx.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psol7a702g.jpg I also have a question about adding balancing ballast or weight. I'm not sure yet but a quick test suggested I might have to add as much as 40 grams to the left side to balance. There are limited places to mount weight towards the outside of the chassis and low, especially something that big. Something that I thought about was buying the brass left suspension holder and using it to add weight to only the left since they are sold separately. I would guess that these parts are usually used in matched pairs but could I use just the one on the left and keep the aluminum one on the right? I've never seen anybody do that, maybe because it would look bad. |
very good idea
Originally Posted by RussF
(Post 14963337)
I found a kind of cool low buck solution to the fan mount. I used an Associated ball stud end to hold the fan. I put a screw through the left layshaft hole and another through the eyelet of the ball end with a small M3 nut on the other side. It was super simple and easy. Check it out.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psbjsf2zkx.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...psol7a702g.jpg I also have a question about adding balancing ballast or weight. I'm not sure yet but a quick test suggested I might have to add as much as 40 grams to the left side to balance. There are limited places to mount weight towards the outside of the chassis and low, especially something that big. Something that I thought about was buying the brass left suspension holder and using it to add weight to only the left since they are sold separately. I would guess that these parts are usually used in matched pairs but could I use just the one on the left and keep the aluminum one on the right? I've never seen anybody do that, maybe because it would look bad. |
Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38
(Post 14966590)
Corner weights are rather important part to a vehicles handling. We use this often in 1:1 racing to achieve certain things.
In rc racing, putting preload on springs directly effect ride heights, so preloads cannot be used as a tuning tool as much as I use them for the bigger cars. However, it is useful to corner weight your car to ensure proper balance. I typically "static" weight the car on balance pegs for side to side-electronics setup. Corner weight scaling or "dynamic" scaling as I call it, takes into consideration the front to back weight distribution as well as tweak, that can be introduced by variables, such as spring preload, improper shock length, sway bar tweak, chassis tweak, top deck tweak, and etc. |
Anyone have a good black carpet setup to share?
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