Originally Posted by TryHard (Post 14890671)

Just to add to this, if you set the ARS up with no shims under either inside or outside ball positions, it actually adds toe-in under compression, at around 1° at 5.2mm ride height (how much it adds depends how much the car compresses, obviously ;) )

Adding shims reduces the amount added (1mm under one of the links gives about 0.5°), until the link has 2mm worth of shims (1mm either side, or 2mm on one side) makes the ARS neutral. Adding more shims then turns it into reducing toe in under compression.

Whilst that might sound a bit backwards, it's actually not quite as simple as it sounds. By having the links to add toe, you gain forward traction. Also consider as the car rolls, the inside wheel is in negative compression, and the outside in compression. So the inside is toe-ing out, and the outside toe-ing in, so the whole rear is then 'steering' in the direction of the turn. Obviously the inside wheel has a lot less influence than the outside as it's far less loaded, but the effect is still there.

In recent running on a technical, medium grip asphalt track, I preferred 1mm of shims on the link. No shims tended to make the car a bit pushy on power, whilst 2mm was too loose. 1mm was a good compromise. Having said that, I did find that ARS whilst ultimately was a little quicker, it wasn't as consistent to drive as a traditional rear end.... but that's the next challenge, to try and improve the consistency.

Ed

Originally Posted by Nspenc6 (Post 14893804)

I really want to get into asphalt week day local racing. I just want to find a good competitive 13.5 car on rubber tires.

Originally Posted by wtcc (Post 14898710)

Hubs and arms. One of each is enough. In five seasons I just needed one front arm and one front and rear hub.