Can you take a photo of it's contents?

There is quite often a 'spares' bag that contains additional screws etc.

Attached a picture of mine. It is indeed the 'Oops' bag.
Many laps of good luck if you never open it. :D

Great! That's accurate. Thank you

I want to buy screw set for my T4, anyone try to buy screw from rcbees?
sorry that i can't post the link.

you mean their 12.9 screws? I am using their gold color ones and they are quite good IMHO... Didn't have any stripped one yet!

But they are heavier than titanium and alum screws...

I'm doing a complete rebuild of my shocks and need a reminder of how long the shock should be after screwing on the eyelets onto the shock shafts, with the shafts fully extended.

Thanks.

Mark, mine are around 56.4mm.

Understeer and pushing in corners
 

i am newbie and T4 17' is my first touring kit , i am having understeer issue

running on large asphalt track that usually has some dust on it

i am using Asphalt basic setup from teamxray website tires are Sorex 36

could you please help me with the understeer,

check ride height first,
what's your toe out
what's your camber?
2.5-8 springs in the front
2.6 springs in the rear
500-550 cst oil
I also add 20 grams of weight in the front.

Try changing the front eccentric bushings, both FF and FR, to be .1 down and in, so that you are lowering your roll center and narrowing the front track width. Try putting some harder springs on the rear, like xray 2.6 and maybe some progressive xray 2.3-2.6 (Or smj progressive yellow on the front, I've found to be great)

If your car is having trouble rotating, I'd reduce the rear toe from 3 to 2.5 and see if that also helps you. You can do this by using the .5 in and center bushings in the RR suspension block.

If you have a setup station, I'd make sure you are getting at least 26-29 degrees of steering throw in each direction.

Also playing with your droop so that you get more weight to transfer to the front off power will help you get into the corner, but that would also take away from the weight transfer to the rear on power. So its a balancing act.


Good luck

1 deg toe out front
2 deg camber all around
2.5 springs all around
300 cst oil

-right now the front is 0.1 down

-i have an offset wheels , i'll use zero offset ones and try

since i dont have other springs right now, can i change shocks to more vertical position ?

can you elaborate more on the droop?

right now i have 5 mm in front and 4mm at the back
thanks

droop is everything in these cars, if you have to much weight transfer to the rear you will understeer.

I'd go thru it and mark everything on a setup sheet.

300 cst oil is very light. same with springs.

The good thing it looks like your setup is off but can be fixed.

have you looked on the xray forum to see setups on asphalt with similar conditions?

Should i go for more droop or less to fix the understeer?

Also noticed that chassis has scuff marks at the edges , so probably it touches the asphalt in corners , should i go higher roll center at the back ? Or raise the ride height?

If it's just a little scuff, don't worry about it. If you constantly hear your car making noises while turning, then you have a problem. My car gets scuffs on the very edges and it's fast as hell:) I also race on asphalt and similar features.

Less front droop (higher down stop value) will reduce weight transfer to the rear of the car on power.
More front drop (lower down stop value) will transfer more weight to the rear on power.
Less rear droop (higher down stop value) will reduce the weight trasfer to the front of the car off power.
More rear droop (lower down stop value) will transfer more weight to the front off power.

I usually run 40 weight summer and 35 weight winter in my shocks.