Gear diff vs. ball diff?
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8,054
From: Virginia, Near DC, USA
I know this topic has been beaten to death. I understand the general advantages and disadvantages of both, and I know everyone with experience prefers one or the other for certain applications. My question is very specific.
One of my Tamiya XV-01s is a rear-motor conversion, meaning the motor directly drives the rear gearbox, and there's a belt-drive that sends some power up to the front wheels. Basically the same as the TA06, but with the motor behind the rear axle instead of in front of the rear axle. Functionally speaking the only difference is the weight balance, the drivetrain otherwise works the same.
Currently I'm running a tungsten-carbide ball-diff in the rear, but after just a few runs I'm starting to notice some roughness in the ball-diff when I rotate the rear wheels by hand. Since this particular chassis configuration forces the rear wheels to do most of the work of moving the car, *and* there's no "give" in the driveline between the motor and rear diff (whereas with most belt-driven cars there's at least a tiny amount of stretch in the rear drive belt) I'm wondering if maybe I should use a gear diff in the rear instead.
Are there any flaws in my logic? Is there some reason I should I keep the ball diff in the rear anyway? Also, are Tamiya's plastic diff gears good enough, or should I spend the extra money to get metal diff gears?
One of my Tamiya XV-01s is a rear-motor conversion, meaning the motor directly drives the rear gearbox, and there's a belt-drive that sends some power up to the front wheels. Basically the same as the TA06, but with the motor behind the rear axle instead of in front of the rear axle. Functionally speaking the only difference is the weight balance, the drivetrain otherwise works the same.
Currently I'm running a tungsten-carbide ball-diff in the rear, but after just a few runs I'm starting to notice some roughness in the ball-diff when I rotate the rear wheels by hand. Since this particular chassis configuration forces the rear wheels to do most of the work of moving the car, *and* there's no "give" in the driveline between the motor and rear diff (whereas with most belt-driven cars there's at least a tiny amount of stretch in the rear drive belt) I'm wondering if maybe I should use a gear diff in the rear instead.
Are there any flaws in my logic? Is there some reason I should I keep the ball diff in the rear anyway? Also, are Tamiya's plastic diff gears good enough, or should I spend the extra money to get metal diff gears?
#2
I know this topic has been beaten to death. I understand the general advantages and disadvantages of both, and I know everyone with experience prefers one or the other for certain applications. My question is very specific.
One of my Tamiya XV-01s is a rear-motor conversion, meaning the motor directly drives the rear gearbox, and there's a belt-drive that sends some power up to the front wheels. Basically the same as the TA06, but with the motor behind the rear axle instead of in front of the rear axle. Functionally speaking the only difference is the weight balance, the drivetrain otherwise works the same.
Currently I'm running a tungsten-carbide ball-diff in the rear, but after just a few runs I'm starting to notice some roughness in the ball-diff when I rotate the rear wheels by hand. Since this particular chassis configuration forces the rear wheels to do most of the work of moving the car, *and* there's no "give" in the driveline between the motor and rear diff (whereas with most belt-driven cars there's at least a tiny amount of stretch in the rear drive belt) I'm wondering if maybe I should use a gear diff in the rear instead.
Are there any flaws in my logic? Is there some reason I should I keep the ball diff in the rear anyway? Also, are Tamiya's plastic diff gears good enough, or should I spend the extra money to get metal diff gears?
One of my Tamiya XV-01s is a rear-motor conversion, meaning the motor directly drives the rear gearbox, and there's a belt-drive that sends some power up to the front wheels. Basically the same as the TA06, but with the motor behind the rear axle instead of in front of the rear axle. Functionally speaking the only difference is the weight balance, the drivetrain otherwise works the same.
Currently I'm running a tungsten-carbide ball-diff in the rear, but after just a few runs I'm starting to notice some roughness in the ball-diff when I rotate the rear wheels by hand. Since this particular chassis configuration forces the rear wheels to do most of the work of moving the car, *and* there's no "give" in the driveline between the motor and rear diff (whereas with most belt-driven cars there's at least a tiny amount of stretch in the rear drive belt) I'm wondering if maybe I should use a gear diff in the rear instead.
Are there any flaws in my logic? Is there some reason I should I keep the ball diff in the rear anyway? Also, are Tamiya's plastic diff gears good enough, or should I spend the extra money to get metal diff gears?
#3
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8,054
From: Virginia, Near DC, USA
I'm running a 4000KV 2-pole motor in that car. It's geared for a top speed of 40mph. Traction is always at a premium on the unswept pavement I drive on, but I'm slowly learning which tires work best for me, so traction is slowly improving.
Generally I go with metal gears whenever possible, but since Tamiya is apparently much better at making things out of plastic than a lot of RC companies are, I find myself tempted to see whether the plastic gears can handle the load. But since this is a custom conversion, getting into the gearboxes to perform repairs is more of a pain in the ass than usual.
I know, I'm overanalyzing things. That's part of the hobby for me, apparently. There is absolutely no reason I shouldn't go with metal gears except to see if the plastic gears can handle the load, and also to see if having 6g less weight in the rear actually makes a damn bit of difference.
Why do you say the ball diff would be better for traction? I thought their main advantages were light weight and external adjustability for the limited-slip feature. Do they do something else to improve traction that I don't know about?
Generally I go with metal gears whenever possible, but since Tamiya is apparently much better at making things out of plastic than a lot of RC companies are, I find myself tempted to see whether the plastic gears can handle the load. But since this is a custom conversion, getting into the gearboxes to perform repairs is more of a pain in the ass than usual.
I know, I'm overanalyzing things. That's part of the hobby for me, apparently. There is absolutely no reason I shouldn't go with metal gears except to see if the plastic gears can handle the load, and also to see if having 6g less weight in the rear actually makes a damn bit of difference.
Why do you say the ball diff would be better for traction? I thought their main advantages were light weight and external adjustability for the limited-slip feature. Do they do something else to improve traction that I don't know about?
#6
I'm running a 4000KV 2-pole motor in that car. It's geared for a top speed of 40mph. Traction is always at a premium on the unswept pavement I drive on, but I'm slowly learning which tires work best for me, so traction is slowly improving.
Generally I go with metal gears whenever possible, but since Tamiya is apparently much better at making things out of plastic than a lot of RC companies are, I find myself tempted to see whether the plastic gears can handle the load. But since this is a custom conversion, getting into the gearboxes to perform repairs is more of a pain in the ass than usual.
I know, I'm overanalyzing things. That's part of the hobby for me, apparently. There is absolutely no reason I shouldn't go with metal gears except to see if the plastic gears can handle the load, and also to see if having 6g less weight in the rear actually makes a damn bit of difference.
Why do you say the ball diff would be better for traction? I thought their main advantages were light weight and external adjustability for the limited-slip feature. Do they do something else to improve traction that I don't know about?
Generally I go with metal gears whenever possible, but since Tamiya is apparently much better at making things out of plastic than a lot of RC companies are, I find myself tempted to see whether the plastic gears can handle the load. But since this is a custom conversion, getting into the gearboxes to perform repairs is more of a pain in the ass than usual.
I know, I'm overanalyzing things. That's part of the hobby for me, apparently. There is absolutely no reason I shouldn't go with metal gears except to see if the plastic gears can handle the load, and also to see if having 6g less weight in the rear actually makes a damn bit of difference.
Why do you say the ball diff would be better for traction? I thought their main advantages were light weight and external adjustability for the limited-slip feature. Do they do something else to improve traction that I don't know about?




