54LikesTT-01 Forum
05-12-2008, 03:05 PM
#976
I would say it's only as good as how you have the car set up. With a motor that powerful, you should upgrade to an aluminum drive shaft and cups. I think others in previous posts from the past week or so have reported stripping spur/pinion gears, perhaps due to these powerful motors, but you should read back over the last page or two to confirm.
05-12-2008, 03:14 PM
#977
Like raffaelli said, practice. Even if you're just bashing in a parking lot, spend a lot of time learning how to control the car. Those parts won't make you any faster nor will they make you a better driver until you've got the basics down. They'll look nice, for sure! But that's about it. So get out there, have fun and don't worry about what's on or not on the car today.
05-12-2008, 04:54 PM
#978
Tech Rookie
tt01e
i bought a tt01E, i set it up the same way as my regular tt01. i noticed a big difference in the turns. i was pushing very bad. i softend up the front springs, to little effect. could it be the upper deck that comes standard on the E? would oil shocks help or should i remove the upper deck? any help opinions would be helpful, thanx.
05-12-2008, 04:54 PM
#979
I am currently using a 6900kV with a mamba max. The motor is crazy fast already, and I am still only using a 20:61 ratio. However, you really have to be careful with this motor (buy extra spur and pinion gears).
The thnig I do not like is how if you are using a brushless motor and you don't have something tightened just right (like the grub screw) then you will pay. I have gone through 1 1/2 spur gears due to minor errors in adjustment and checking to make sure everything was tight.
And personally I find that these faster motors bring out the imperfections in your chassis. I got mine second hand, and there are some screws missing, and the rear gearbox stiffener (locks the spur gear cover to the rear assembly) is gone on mine. So every time my chassis flexes a little bit, the drivetrain grinds a bit.
I think you COULD put a 7700 in there... but it' suicide if you don't have the drivetrain and everything loctite-ed down. But why not go for it anyways?
The thnig I do not like is how if you are using a brushless motor and you don't have something tightened just right (like the grub screw) then you will pay. I have gone through 1 1/2 spur gears due to minor errors in adjustment and checking to make sure everything was tight.
And personally I find that these faster motors bring out the imperfections in your chassis. I got mine second hand, and there are some screws missing, and the rear gearbox stiffener (locks the spur gear cover to the rear assembly) is gone on mine. So every time my chassis flexes a little bit, the drivetrain grinds a bit.
I think you COULD put a 7700 in there... but it' suicide if you don't have the drivetrain and everything loctite-ed down. But why not go for it anyways?
05-12-2008, 06:49 PM
#980
i bought a tt01E, i set it up the same way as my regular tt01. i noticed a big difference in the turns. i was pushing very bad. i softend up the front springs, to little effect. could it be the upper deck that comes standard on the E? would oil shocks help or should i remove the upper deck? any help opinions would be helpful, thanx.
Oil shocks will also help a lot (with smoother rebound), especially if you're racing. The friction shocks just bounce around with the springs. Fine for general bashing, not so good for serious racing.
05-12-2008, 10:19 PM
#981
Tech Rookie
Hey guys found out what the problem was, its my steering servo if i plug it out then the stutter goes away, and if i plug it back in then it comes back. So i am going to change the servo and that should sort it out.
Cheers LUAP
Cheers LUAP
05-13-2008, 07:57 AM
#982
Tech Rookie
Hi there
im new to this forum
signed up because im in need of desperate help
i have the tt-01 xb pro
replaced main chassis with 3racing.com CF chassis
replaced prop shaft with alloy 1
got oil dampers
changed gearing to FDR of 6.85(58/22 or 23 IIRC)
upgraded motor & esc
motor is Reedy superstock 27T, 33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque.
my problem is not speed
but grip roll
whenever i come into the corners, im getting grip roll and my car is flipping on its roof like a turtle
i NEEED to stop this ASAP as its costing valuable time in the race
Im ordering front & rear stabiliser bars, it comes with 3 coloured bars...
which do i use front & rear?
and does anybody else have ANY idea's how to stop the grip roll
PLEASE!! *gets on knee's and begs*
im new to this forum
signed up because im in need of desperate help
i have the tt-01 xb pro
replaced main chassis with 3racing.com CF chassis
replaced prop shaft with alloy 1
got oil dampers
changed gearing to FDR of 6.85(58/22 or 23 IIRC)
upgraded motor & esc
motor is Reedy superstock 27T, 33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque.
my problem is not speed
but grip roll
whenever i come into the corners, im getting grip roll and my car is flipping on its roof like a turtle
i NEEED to stop this ASAP as its costing valuable time in the race
Im ordering front & rear stabiliser bars, it comes with 3 coloured bars...
which do i use front & rear?
and does anybody else have ANY idea's how to stop the grip roll
PLEASE!! *gets on knee's and begs*
05-13-2008, 08:25 AM
#983
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Land of the Free, Home of the Brave
Posts: 2,928
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Hi there
im new to this forum
signed up because im in need of desperate help
i have the tt-01 xb pro
replaced main chassis with 3racing.com CF chassis
replaced prop shaft with alloy 1
got oil dampers
changed gearing to FDR of 6.85(58/22 or 23 IIRC)
upgraded motor & esc
motor is Reedy superstock 27T, 33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque.
my problem is not speed
but grip roll
whenever i come into the corners, im getting grip roll and my car is flipping on its roof like a turtle
i NEEED to stop this ASAP as its costing valuable time in the race
Im ordering front & rear stabiliser bars, it comes with 3 coloured bars...
which do i use front & rear?
and does anybody else have ANY idea's how to stop the grip roll
PLEASE!! *gets on knee's and begs*
im new to this forum
signed up because im in need of desperate help
i have the tt-01 xb pro
replaced main chassis with 3racing.com CF chassis
replaced prop shaft with alloy 1
got oil dampers
changed gearing to FDR of 6.85(58/22 or 23 IIRC)
upgraded motor & esc
motor is Reedy superstock 27T, 33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque.
my problem is not speed
but grip roll
whenever i come into the corners, im getting grip roll and my car is flipping on its roof like a turtle
i NEEED to stop this ASAP as its costing valuable time in the race
Im ordering front & rear stabiliser bars, it comes with 3 coloured bars...
which do i use front & rear?
and does anybody else have ANY idea's how to stop the grip roll
PLEASE!! *gets on knee's and begs*
Without having your full set up and what you are racing on, I would suggest the following:
Smaller diameter tires
Lower the chassis
More negative camber
Less sticky tires
Thicker oil
Stiffer spring
Smaller hole piston
Slow down
As far as the sway bars, start with the thinnest, work your way to thicker till handling improves.
05-13-2008, 08:27 AM
#984
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Land of the Free, Home of the Brave
Posts: 2,928
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
05-13-2008, 08:29 AM
#985
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Land of the Free, Home of the Brave
Posts: 2,928
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
I am currently using a 6900kV with a mamba max. The motor is crazy fast already, and I am still only using a 20:61 ratio. However, you really have to be careful with this motor (buy extra spur and pinion gears).
The thnig I do not like is how if you are using a brushless motor and you don't have something tightened just right (like the grub screw) then you will pay. I have gone through 1 1/2 spur gears due to minor errors in adjustment and checking to make sure everything was tight.
And personally I find that these faster motors bring out the imperfections in your chassis. I got mine second hand, and there are some screws missing, and the rear gearbox stiffener (locks the spur gear cover to the rear assembly) is gone on mine. So every time my chassis flexes a little bit, the drivetrain grinds a bit.
I think you COULD put a 7700 in there... but it' suicide if you don't have the drivetrain and everything loctite-ed down. But why not go for it anyways?
The thnig I do not like is how if you are using a brushless motor and you don't have something tightened just right (like the grub screw) then you will pay. I have gone through 1 1/2 spur gears due to minor errors in adjustment and checking to make sure everything was tight.
And personally I find that these faster motors bring out the imperfections in your chassis. I got mine second hand, and there are some screws missing, and the rear gearbox stiffener (locks the spur gear cover to the rear assembly) is gone on mine. So every time my chassis flexes a little bit, the drivetrain grinds a bit.
I think you COULD put a 7700 in there... but it' suicide if you don't have the drivetrain and everything loctite-ed down. But why not go for it anyways?
You are correct. The faster you go the more of the limits of this car are reached. I find that brushless 13.5, lipo, foam on carpet, base kit, no upgrades is the limit of this car.
05-13-2008, 10:19 AM
#986
Tech Rookie
Without having your full set up and what you are racing on, I would suggest the following:
Smaller diameter tires
Lower the chassis
More negative camber
Less sticky tires
Thicker oil
Stiffer spring
Smaller hole piston
Slow down
As far as the sway bars, start with the thinnest, work your way to thicker till handling improves.
Smaller diameter tires
Lower the chassis
More negative camber
Less sticky tires
Thicker oil
Stiffer spring
Smaller hole piston
Slow down
As far as the sway bars, start with the thinnest, work your way to thicker till handling improves.
i dont know what tyres iv got on, there just some £25 rubber compound from Local hobby shop
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0313.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0314.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0315.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0316.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0319.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0320.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0321.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0322.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0323.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0324.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0325.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0326.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0327.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0328.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0317.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7/DSCF0318.jpg
if you need pics of anything else, let me know
sorry pics are soooo bad, didn't realise till uploaded them
Last edited by spid3r1987; 05-13-2008 at 10:25 AM. Reason: sorry pics are sooo bad
05-13-2008, 06:13 PM
#987
Does anyone know what shocks are stock for the TT01D Xpert Built? Is it true to do drifting, it's best to be on hard shocks on the rear and meidum/soft for the front? Thanks.
05-14-2008, 03:24 PM
#988
adrictan - it all comes down to personal preference, but i do here alot of drifters running soft springs front, medium springs rear. i run medium springs all round with no preload & it does the job for drifting quite well. i was using medium fronts, soft rears for some time but found it would not hold a big enough drift for my liking...
05-14-2008, 06:00 PM
#989
Hi there
im new to this forum
signed up because im in need of desperate help
i have the tt-01 xb pro
replaced main chassis with 3racing.com CF chassis
replaced prop shaft with alloy 1
got oil dampers
changed gearing to FDR of 6.85(58/22 or 23 IIRC)
upgraded motor & esc
motor is Reedy superstock 27T, 33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque.
my problem is not speed
but grip roll
whenever i come into the corners, im getting grip roll and my car is flipping on its roof like a turtle
i NEEED to stop this ASAP as its costing valuable time in the race
Im ordering front & rear stabiliser bars, it comes with 3 coloured bars...
which do i use front & rear?
and does anybody else have ANY idea's how to stop the grip roll
PLEASE!! *gets on knee's and begs*
im new to this forum
signed up because im in need of desperate help
i have the tt-01 xb pro
replaced main chassis with 3racing.com CF chassis
replaced prop shaft with alloy 1
got oil dampers
changed gearing to FDR of 6.85(58/22 or 23 IIRC)
upgraded motor & esc
motor is Reedy superstock 27T, 33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque.
my problem is not speed
but grip roll
whenever i come into the corners, im getting grip roll and my car is flipping on its roof like a turtle
i NEEED to stop this ASAP as its costing valuable time in the race
Im ordering front & rear stabiliser bars, it comes with 3 coloured bars...
which do i use front & rear?
and does anybody else have ANY idea's how to stop the grip roll
PLEASE!! *gets on knee's and begs*
Try not to clean your tires so much and check your droop...
All ways works for me
hth...
05-14-2008, 06:35 PM
#990
Need advice. Tried the ABS. Too slippery on Tarmac/tar road. What other good tires can I get for drifting on tar? Also on MSCP floors/basketball courts, what type of tires can best?