GuyIsDamGood

I re-built the TRF Shocks on the TT-01. (I installed HPI O-rings-Orange #40 - item # 114674)
The o-rings are a tight fit on the TRF Fluorine Shock-Shafts. They're not allowing much smooth compression and decompression motion. I'll do a couple of runs to try to break-them-in.

r_torres

recently ordered the Tamiya TT-01 E HKS R32 Skyline. Along with it i got the aluminum propeller and joints and bearings. I want to upgrade my steering. I do see the Tamiya TT01E steering set (#54058). Just wanted to know if the TTT01 steering bridge will work with it. (#53864). Thanks!

GuyIsDamGood

I believe those two parts will work together. (those two parts are just for shine)

r_torres

hopefully it will improve steering. haha. got the same mods on my tt02. less slop also.

GuyIsDamGood

I have those two Hop-Ups installed on my TT-01. They work well.
(installed them on the chassis in 2005)

GuyIsDamGood

Daaaveee

I've recently picked up a TT01-E HKS Skyline kit to run in Iconic Cup races and meetings that run the same rules (Broxtowe Winter Series) here in the UK.

I'll be running the stock class which has minimal hop ups and controlled motors:

Tamiya Stock 4WD Touring Car
Allowed chassis: TT-01 TT-01E TL-01
• Team Powers Cup Racer 540 Black Can Stock Motor or Silver Can Motor.
• Gearing: Tamiya
• Strict Scale Body Rules.
• Any commercially available tyre, except Foam.
• Permitted commercially available hop-ups:
Ball Races, Shocks, Aluminium Hexes, Aluminium Prop-shaft, Motor Mount

I have all the hop ups as above, plus the optional Tamiya spur gear set running 58T spur and 25T pinion. The Team Powers Cup Racer motor is 17 turn brushed sealed can.

The first meet I was going to take it to is outdoors this Sunday for the first round of the Broxtowe Winter Series but the weather looks wet so I don't think I'll be running unfortunately - at least it give me a little longer to finish up all the decals on the HKS Skyline bodyshell!

Instead I'm going to give it a shakedown run at my local indoor friday night club at Newark in Nottinghamshire. Fingers crossed I don't break it first time out! At least I'll just be running an old Focus WRC shell!

GuyIsDamGood

Daaaveee

So my TT-01E has been running great! I had to swap out the gearing back to stock as its more suited for the smaller indoor track rather than the larger outdoor track I was planning on running at first. I had put in the hop up 58T spur and a 25T pinion but the motor got super hot and it was still accelerating when I got to the end of the straight, so back to 61T spur and 19T pinion. The motor is a lot cooler now but its a bit too slow on the straight so I've ordered a 22T pinion so hopefully that will be about right.

I've been using Sorex 28s all around just like everyone else does on their more serious XRays etc, however the back end is a little loose so I've just been using SXT 3.0 additive on the rear tyres to help balance it out. It turns in very well with a little slip on the rear, I would prefer a little more towards understeer so I'll have to take a look at setup now and see what I can do.

I also ran my Xpress XQ1S afterwards on the same tyres but with 13.5T brushless and that was 2 laps faster after 5 mins (24 vs 22 laps), and around 1.7s quicker fastest lap (11.421 vs. 13.153). The Xpress is obviously a better race car but it would be interesting to see the difference with the same motor and same bodyshell (I was running a Focus WRC shell on the Tamiya but a proper Protoform racing shell on the Xpress).

Overall I've been really impressed with the TT-01E, a couple of others at my club have trucks with the same chassis so if we could get a stock class with controlled motors, minimal hop-ups with proper scale car and truck bodies it would be a great class for newcomers to the hobby and Tamiyas!

Daaaveee

I've had an issue with the front driveshafts popping out when racing the other day, happened 3 times, twice one side and once the other. Is this a common issue and if so is there something I can do to stop it happening?

hobbyten

iTrader: (39)

Put orings in the cups to keep them centered.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Building a TT-01E for my club's TTGT class, a Mercedes 190E kit. This class is basically box stock but with the Gravity RC USGT spec tires and ball bearings allowed as the only upgrade. Chassis has been built, the electronics installed, body painted and given an initial trim. Still needs some minor trimming and then the decals.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Body is now painted, windows lightly tinted and the decals applied. The one issue I had was with applying the decals on the white plastic rear wing. One ripped when I was trying to manipulate it around the tight bends. Otherwise, it went fairly well.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

Nice work! Who knew such a simple color block paint job would look so detailed after applying decals. I love it!

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Thanks. Sometimes a simple paint scheme just work better and shows off the body better. There was only a little of the green paint with the rest white, everything else came from the extensive decal sheet.