Tamiya TB-Evolution III
02-04-2004, 03:10 PM
#5536
Tech Regular
anti squat / kickup ?
02-04-2004, 03:28 PM
#5538
Tech Addict
No, it changes the Roll centre. Basically it's about the same as decreasing the number of spacers of the turnbuckle, but with a chassis taking more roll.
Roll provides grip, but too much roll is not good, so adding roll could be useful in low grip conditions.
Roll provides grip, but too much roll is not good, so adding roll could be useful in low grip conditions.
02-04-2004, 04:46 PM
#5539
Tech Regular
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
could you tell if it done any good to the drive train in terms of binding and 1way gear probs?
could you tell if it done any good to the drive train in terms of binding and 1way gear probs?
However it does not solve the 1-way stripping issue completely. It helps with minor crashes but most crashes still results in stripping.
Using the square alloy gearbox with the 3pc shaft might help more but it will also greatly increase the weight of the car.
02-04-2004, 05:54 PM
#5540
Originally posted by markp27
Oh yeah, and what were those bearings you mentioned? Are they from Tamiya?
Oh yeah, and what were those bearings you mentioned? Are they from Tamiya?
02-04-2004, 10:03 PM
#5541
Originally posted by jeffreylin
bearings? I did not mention any bearings...
bearings? I did not mention any bearings...
02-05-2004, 03:43 AM
#5542
Speaking of the weight: I am trying to get my Evo 3 down to 1500g. ESC is the Quantum Competition, Receiver is the Schulze Alpha 440 and Servo will be Graupner (JR) DS8025 (as soon as it arrives). Cells are from GP (3300)
Is there a lighter wheel than the Dish Types? Has anyone seen a table with the weight of Tamiya parts?
The weight of a Dish Type Rim (2mm Offset) with hard Tamiya inserts and a Type A tire is approx. 31g
Hemi
Is there a lighter wheel than the Dish Types? Has anyone seen a table with the weight of Tamiya parts?
The weight of a Dish Type Rim (2mm Offset) with hard Tamiya inserts and a Type A tire is approx. 31g
Hemi
Last edited by hemi426; 02-05-2004 at 04:15 AM.
02-05-2004, 08:07 AM
#5543
Originally posted by hemi426
Speaking of the weight: I am trying to get my Evo 3 down to 1500g. ESC is the Quantum Competition, Receiver is the Schulze Alpha 440 and Servo will be Graupner (JR) DS8025 (as soon as it arrives). Cells are from GP (3300)
Is there a lighter wheel than the Dish Types? Has anyone seen a table with the weight of Tamiya parts?
The weight of a Dish Type Rim (2mm Offset) with hard Tamiya inserts and a Type A tire is approx. 31g
Hemi
Speaking of the weight: I am trying to get my Evo 3 down to 1500g. ESC is the Quantum Competition, Receiver is the Schulze Alpha 440 and Servo will be Graupner (JR) DS8025 (as soon as it arrives). Cells are from GP (3300)
Is there a lighter wheel than the Dish Types? Has anyone seen a table with the weight of Tamiya parts?
The weight of a Dish Type Rim (2mm Offset) with hard Tamiya inserts and a Type A tire is approx. 31g
Hemi
Regarding rims I just had two types on the scales.
The stock EVO3 rims are 41 gramms (4 pieces) and the Team Orion Hard are 35 gramms (4 pieces). The Schumacher Revlite are about the same as the Orion and I like both of them more than the Tamiya as these are too stiff in my opinion.
02-05-2004, 08:22 AM
#5544
Originally posted by V12
The DS8025 servo is one of the lightest servos as it uses all plastic gears and works good. I was using it in my EvO3 and also in the TC3 before but now switched to the Futaba 9550.
Regarding rims I just had two types on the scales.
The stock EVO3 rims are 41 gramms (4 pieces) and the Team Orion Hard are 35 gramms (4 pieces). The Schumacher Revlite are about the same as the Orion and I like both of them more than the Tamiya as these are too stiff in my opinion.
The DS8025 servo is one of the lightest servos as it uses all plastic gears and works good. I was using it in my EvO3 and also in the TC3 before but now switched to the Futaba 9550.
Regarding rims I just had two types on the scales.
The stock EVO3 rims are 41 gramms (4 pieces) and the Team Orion Hard are 35 gramms (4 pieces). The Schumacher Revlite are about the same as the Orion and I like both of them more than the Tamiya as these are too stiff in my opinion.
Do you keep the carbon battery holder onto of the batteries or do you just tape them down onto the chassis?
02-05-2004, 08:35 AM
#5545
V12 & Hemi,
What motors are you using - I've got the Tamiya 17 Turn Blue Acto-Power. Maybe this is also heavier than other motors.
The 17 is a little too slow for me now.
Mark.
What motors are you using - I've got the Tamiya 17 Turn Blue Acto-Power. Maybe this is also heavier than other motors.
The 17 is a little too slow for me now.
Mark.
02-05-2004, 08:56 AM
#5546
Mark
I kept the original battery holder as I donīt like fiddling around with tape. I donīt care about the weight of the batteryholder as my EVO3 is at the limit sometimes even under limit.
I donīt have choice of motors as Iīm running race series with limited motors most times. If you want a really fast but economical priced 17T motor look for the GM Racing GP 17T order-# 97150. Power is at about 200W so somewhat lower than the modifieds but way faster than the Tamiya motors and real good torque and rebuildable also. Donīt know exactly what it costs but I think around 35 Euros. Best is calling Friedel. But donīt go for a Corally or CS motor if they donīt have this one. You also could look at HK http://www.hk-shop.de/index.php?doop...504e42ed11488b Just found out it only costs 29 Euro there plus shipping.
I kept the original battery holder as I donīt like fiddling around with tape. I donīt care about the weight of the batteryholder as my EVO3 is at the limit sometimes even under limit.
I donīt have choice of motors as Iīm running race series with limited motors most times. If you want a really fast but economical priced 17T motor look for the GM Racing GP 17T order-# 97150. Power is at about 200W so somewhat lower than the modifieds but way faster than the Tamiya motors and real good torque and rebuildable also. Donīt know exactly what it costs but I think around 35 Euros. Best is calling Friedel. But donīt go for a Corally or CS motor if they donīt have this one. You also could look at HK http://www.hk-shop.de/index.php?doop...504e42ed11488b Just found out it only costs 29 Euro there plus shipping.
02-05-2004, 09:01 AM
#5547
Originally posted by V12
Mark
I kept the original battery holder as I donīt like fiddling around with tape. I donīt care about the weight of the batteryholder as my EVO3 is at the limit sometimes even under limit.
I donīt have choice of motors as Iīm running race series with limited motors most times. If you want a really fast but economical priced 17T motor look for the GM Racing GP 17T order-# 97150. Power is at about 200W so somewhat lower than the modifieds but way faster than the Tamiya motors and real good torque and rebuildable also. Donīt know exactly what it costs but I think around 35 Euros. Best is calling Friedel. But donīt go for a Corally or CS motor if they donīt have this one. You also could look at HK http://www.hk-shop.de/index.php?doop...504e42ed11488b Just found out it only costs 29 Euro there plus shipping.
Mark
I kept the original battery holder as I donīt like fiddling around with tape. I donīt care about the weight of the batteryholder as my EVO3 is at the limit sometimes even under limit.
I donīt have choice of motors as Iīm running race series with limited motors most times. If you want a really fast but economical priced 17T motor look for the GM Racing GP 17T order-# 97150. Power is at about 200W so somewhat lower than the modifieds but way faster than the Tamiya motors and real good torque and rebuildable also. Donīt know exactly what it costs but I think around 35 Euros. Best is calling Friedel. But donīt go for a Corally or CS motor if they donīt have this one. You also could look at HK http://www.hk-shop.de/index.php?doop...504e42ed11488b Just found out it only costs 29 Euro there plus shipping.
02-05-2004, 09:38 AM
#5548
Technical Motor Question
In terms of driving what diiference does more power make (Watts) and what difference does more torque make?
Ok,
more power = faster
and
more torque = more driveable
But how does this translate to what I see on the track. I take it more torque means I can accelerate out of corners better and more power means I can go faster down the straight.
But if I had a motor with good torque but poor power would I still be able to accelerate well? And if I had a really powerful motor with poor torque wouldn't this mean it wouldn't go fast?
Mark.
Ok,
more power = faster
and
more torque = more driveable
But how does this translate to what I see on the track. I take it more torque means I can accelerate out of corners better and more power means I can go faster down the straight.
But if I had a motor with good torque but poor power would I still be able to accelerate well? And if I had a really powerful motor with poor torque wouldn't this mean it wouldn't go fast?
Mark.
02-05-2004, 09:50 AM
#5549
I am using the Tamiya 11T Super Modified.
The entire car has a weight of 1524g with the NSX Raybrig Body.
The Keil PS5000 Servo I have currently installed is making some trouble. It's heavy (compared to the DS8025) and it needs a very high current, so I had to connect it directly to the ESC to power it.
But worst of all, the servo "kicks" to one side, when I punch the throttle, making the front wheels steering to the left (approx 10 degrees). Since I am not a very good driver, this doesn't make things easier to me. I tried other servos and other receivers and it seems to be the servo.
Hemi
The entire car has a weight of 1524g with the NSX Raybrig Body.
The Keil PS5000 Servo I have currently installed is making some trouble. It's heavy (compared to the DS8025) and it needs a very high current, so I had to connect it directly to the ESC to power it.
But worst of all, the servo "kicks" to one side, when I punch the throttle, making the front wheels steering to the left (approx 10 degrees). Since I am not a very good driver, this doesn't make things easier to me. I tried other servos and other receivers and it seems to be the servo.
Hemi
02-05-2004, 10:00 AM
#5550
Originally posted by hemi426
I am using the Tamiya 11T Super Modified.
The entire car has a weight of 1524g with the NSX Raybrig Body.
The Keil PS5000 Servo I have currently installed is making some trouble. It's heavy (compared to the DS8025) and it needs a very high current, so I had to connect it directly to the ESC to power it.
But worst of all, the servo "kicks" to one side, when I punch the throttle, making the front wheels steering to the left (approx 10 degrees). Since I am not a very good driver, this doesn't make things easier to me. I tried other servos and other receivers and it seems to be the servo.
Hemi
I am using the Tamiya 11T Super Modified.
The entire car has a weight of 1524g with the NSX Raybrig Body.
The Keil PS5000 Servo I have currently installed is making some trouble. It's heavy (compared to the DS8025) and it needs a very high current, so I had to connect it directly to the ESC to power it.
But worst of all, the servo "kicks" to one side, when I punch the throttle, making the front wheels steering to the left (approx 10 degrees). Since I am not a very good driver, this doesn't make things easier to me. I tried other servos and other receivers and it seems to be the servo.
Hemi
I would recommend a Futaba 9550 - mine is really good. I got it on ebay for about 80 Euro, I think.
I think an 11T is too powerful for me, though.