Tamiya TB-Evolution III
#1966
Tech Regular
TTT=to the top
#1967
oo i c
#1969
Hey izzy,
It is always a good idea to check your hinge pins whenever your car feels weird after setting it up. What I mean is that you can set your droops, ride heights, cambers, toes...etc but if your car fells funky on track, almost like its tweaked, then you've probably got a bent hinge pin or suspension block.
As for a harder material, I asked about that and they don't have anything in stock that would work. Perhap lunsford makes a set that can be modifed for use in Tamiya cars but I doubt it.
Also, has anybody been having problems with the 12x8mm bearing shields popping off the crown gear? Anybody have problems with the bearing shifting on the crown gear causing a roachy drivetrain? Do you think rubber sealed bearings would solve this? TIA.
One more thing:
davioh, I understand and share your excitement about the Evo3 but to save some face, here's is something futureal posted in another thread and I hope that you don't take it the wrong way.
"We specifically warned you to stop posting junk and you have continued. Yesterday I saw you respond to about 9 or 10 different threads in the Paint forum, with every one of your responses being one line or less.
DON'T respond to threads with things like "me too" or "" or "wow really?" and so on. And don't tell me that you've stopped doing that, because you posted about 40 times yesterday across half the forums.
Part of the appeal of this site is that people tend to have real discussions and act a bit more mature than other places. This isn't meant to be a chat forum like RCCA (www.caraction.com). I'm not trying to be harsh, be we HAVE warned you, and you choose to ignore it.
edit: In fact, in this forum alone, you responded to the last 7 or 8 threads, with one of your responses be nothing more than "yeah." and most of the others being something like "Yea, do what he said." Those are posts that don't need to be made, they just clutter things up. Only respond to a thread if you have something to ADD to the discussion, not just for the sake of posting. "
It is always a good idea to check your hinge pins whenever your car feels weird after setting it up. What I mean is that you can set your droops, ride heights, cambers, toes...etc but if your car fells funky on track, almost like its tweaked, then you've probably got a bent hinge pin or suspension block.
As for a harder material, I asked about that and they don't have anything in stock that would work. Perhap lunsford makes a set that can be modifed for use in Tamiya cars but I doubt it.
Also, has anybody been having problems with the 12x8mm bearing shields popping off the crown gear? Anybody have problems with the bearing shifting on the crown gear causing a roachy drivetrain? Do you think rubber sealed bearings would solve this? TIA.
One more thing:
davioh, I understand and share your excitement about the Evo3 but to save some face, here's is something futureal posted in another thread and I hope that you don't take it the wrong way.
"We specifically warned you to stop posting junk and you have continued. Yesterday I saw you respond to about 9 or 10 different threads in the Paint forum, with every one of your responses being one line or less.
DON'T respond to threads with things like "me too" or "" or "wow really?" and so on. And don't tell me that you've stopped doing that, because you posted about 40 times yesterday across half the forums.
Part of the appeal of this site is that people tend to have real discussions and act a bit more mature than other places. This isn't meant to be a chat forum like RCCA (www.caraction.com). I'm not trying to be harsh, be we HAVE warned you, and you choose to ignore it.
edit: In fact, in this forum alone, you responded to the last 7 or 8 threads, with one of your responses be nothing more than "yeah." and most of the others being something like "Yea, do what he said." Those are posts that don't need to be made, they just clutter things up. Only respond to a thread if you have something to ADD to the discussion, not just for the sake of posting. "
#1971
Thanks Dotman. I too have picked up a set of 12x8mm rubber bearings from Tamiya and will install them tonight. As for the bearing itself shifting around on the crown gear, any problems with that?
#1973
Tech Apprentice
rtypec,
Did you have that problem with your ceramic bearings?
Did you have that problem with your ceramic bearings?
#1974
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Originally posted by rtypec
Thanks Dotman. I too have picked up a set of 12x8mm rubber bearings from Tamiya and will install them tonight. As for the bearing itself shifting around on the crown gear, any problems with that?
Thanks Dotman. I too have picked up a set of 12x8mm rubber bearings from Tamiya and will install them tonight. As for the bearing itself shifting around on the crown gear, any problems with that?
rock on !
#1975
Attached is an illustration of what I mean about the bearing shifting on the crown gear.
Also, it seems that the bearings without shields tend to let the crown gear wobble more (again causing bad mesh) than bearings with their shields intact. I'll install rubber bearings and see if it helps.
As for the ceramic bearings. Acer didn't have those sizes at the time and I had to go with metal shielded bearings when I placed the order.
Also, it seems that the bearings without shields tend to let the crown gear wobble more (again causing bad mesh) than bearings with their shields intact. I'll install rubber bearings and see if it helps.
As for the ceramic bearings. Acer didn't have those sizes at the time and I had to go with metal shielded bearings when I placed the order.
#1976
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Originally posted by rtypec
Attached is an illustration of what I mean about the bearing shifting on the crown gear.
Also, it seems that the bearings without shields tend to let the crown gear wobble more (again causing bad mesh) than bearings with their shields intact. I'll install rubber bearings and see if it helps.
As for the ceramic bearings. Acer didn't have those sizes at the time and I had to go with metal shielded bearings when I placed the order.
Attached is an illustration of what I mean about the bearing shifting on the crown gear.
Also, it seems that the bearings without shields tend to let the crown gear wobble more (again causing bad mesh) than bearings with their shields intact. I'll install rubber bearings and see if it helps.
As for the ceramic bearings. Acer didn't have those sizes at the time and I had to go with metal shielded bearings when I placed the order.
Hey, I had that happen on my original bearings.
#1978
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Originally posted by rtypec
Attached is an illustration of what I mean about the bearing shifting on the crown gear.
Also, it seems that the bearings without shields tend to let the crown gear wobble more (again causing bad mesh) than bearings with their shields intact. I'll install rubber bearings and see if it helps.
As for the ceramic bearings. Acer didn't have those sizes at the time and I had to go with metal shielded bearings when I placed the order.
Attached is an illustration of what I mean about the bearing shifting on the crown gear.
Also, it seems that the bearings without shields tend to let the crown gear wobble more (again causing bad mesh) than bearings with their shields intact. I'll install rubber bearings and see if it helps.
As for the ceramic bearings. Acer didn't have those sizes at the time and I had to go with metal shielded bearings when I placed the order.
#1979
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Rod, I've been having problems with my front diff in general. I'll have to look closer at my bearings. What bothers me about the bearing/crown gear setup is that there's really nothing holding it in place. It's free to move around at will. If I remove my front diff and hold the car vertical with the nose down, the gear and bearing will fall right out. Same with the rear.
#1980
Tech Fanatic
rtypec, I was checking my Evo 3 over the other night and noticed that the bearing shield had come off the front crown gear, i have no idea what has caused this but is it possible that the chassis is flexing and with the prop been one piece this is causing the bearing to deflect slightly and the seal pop out? Rick