rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Brent, thank you for the explanation. That sounds like a deadly tuning option to have I can't wait to play with that.

*Edit* I had to go in the garage to check out the car. Yup, it makes perfect sense. Thank you.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

I think 3mm is in the ballpark for rear bump toe in the wheelbase. With 0* caster I typically run 4.5mm shims, and for every 4*+/- you add/subtract 1.75mm of shims, so by that I would have said 2.75mm, so 3mm should be fine you can play with the shims and check how the toe changes under compression on the hudy gauges to get an idea of what you want to do

Sam Isaacs

iTrader: (29)

Hi Rod,

Great job on the first weekend out! Where in the corner particularly do you need more steering? All around?

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Sam.

When I noted that the car has mild understeer, it was more of a warning to others who wanted to try the setup. I tend to prefer slightly pushy cars at the Tamiya track and I've got some room with bumping up the dual rate. If anything I could use a just a touch more on entry without loosing stability and balance. That'd help on the 180, inner sweeper, and getting into esses at this track. It could be something as simple as rear downtravel or front spring rate.

That being said, the A800x setup by Brandon and driven by Thad Garner looked phenomenal and is something I will probably try at the Reedy Race at some point.

Sam Isaacs

iTrader: (29)

Good to hear. I would agree with Hanulec's suggestion of front dampening/spring increase to help prevent the car from falling over. More rear droop as you mentioned would help. Dropping your inner front camber links is a common change I make on asphalt to make the car more aggressive; you could also try less shims on the FF (front front) link than the RF link. Less ackermann shims could give it more turn in, too.

A 1.2 bar front is an option as well, which could help depending on traction levels.

Sam

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Oh man, then there's the whole reactive caster thing!

I agree on the Ackerman setting. I wanted to start with a safe setting and will go with 0.25-0.5 less when I rebuild the car (there's a bag of ceramic bearings on my workbench daring me to install in non-high stress areas). Will also readjust front damper/spring rates so there's room for adjustments. I don't like being maxed out in one direction.

Sam Isaacs

iTrader: (29)

Oh--there is plenty still untried! Just incase you want to keep that in the back of your mind.

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Is the A800XA chassis recommend for asphalt or low- med carpet, thanks in advance

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Asphalt - a800x, a800xa
Carpet - a800xa, a800xah

The first model listed will be the easiest/most forgiving. The second models could work but are likely to have smaller setup windows, but they could reward you with some slight advantage.

spring71

iTrader: (3)

There must be a misunderstanding, I didn't ask the consignment.

I just asked if it's possible to get distributor account. if not, it's OK to get the dealer account from other distributors.

I sent a PM to Oleg regarding the dealer account.

Thanks.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Sean..

Email [email protected]

As your in North America

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

Awesomatix 1/2 in 21.5 Class at West Australian State Titles (Both A800)

My A800X was a pig, so became a parts doner for the weekend.

West Coast Model RC :: 2017 Aarcmcc Wa On Road State Titles :: Sportsman 21.5 Touring Triple A-Main Results :: LiveRC

B4 Willo

iTrader: (14)

Why was it a pig? Didnt you TQ?

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I ran the A800, the A800X I gave up on after the practice Friday trying to get it right. Just very twitchy / unstable, even with the A800 hubs / set up on it. Going to rebuild it onto a spare new A800 CF deck I have see if that helps.

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

is the gold CO1B-AL chassis not being produced anymore for the 800a?