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Awesomatix A800/A800R

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Old 03-29-2023, 11:28 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Awesomatix A800/A800R
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Last edit by: hanulec
A800R Released March 23, 2023 with two kit versions, A800RA (alloy) and A800RC (carbon)


Mid Motor Content ---

New Part Releases
  • January 2020 - A800-AM24-20 Servo Holder - combine servo holder and steering holder to one single part.
  • February 2020 - A800-ADC Advanced Damper Cup Set - Reduces the amount of rebuild routines. It offers the possibility to A) remove air and B) add oil into the damper without the need of full disassembling
  • January 2021 - A800-BDL - Body Downtravel Limiter, replaces SPR08
  • March 2021 - A800-P138LFA - 38T Pully Low Friction - For Gear Diff
  • March 2021 - A800-P138S-LFA 38T Spool Pulley Low Friction - For Spool
  • April 2021 - A800-C27MMX - Full Length Top Deck for A800MMX
  • May 2021 - A800-C01MMA Alloy Chassis - Battery position is shifted to the front to achieve a better overall weight distribution. Removes short arm holes. New narrower shape
  • September 2021 - A800-C04M1+7.0 Arm - narrows the track width for lower grip levels
  • October 2021 - AM180EVO Single Bellcrank Steering Update - AM180EVO is a direct replacement for AM180M5

A800MMX and A800MMXA Kit Updates
  • AM152/AM24-8 is replaced by AM24-20 in this kit (UPDATE 08.03.2021)
  • P138/P138S is replaced by P138-1/P138S-1 in this kit (UPDATE 25.03.2021)
  • C01B-X-MMA is replaced by C01MMA in MMXA kit (UPDATE 26.05.2021)
  • AM180M5 is replaced by AM180EVO in this kit (UPDATE 21.09.2021)


Below OLD Rear Motor Content ---
Welcome - please help to make this Awesomatix A800 wiki useful!

A800 Information
New Parts
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01-98 - The version of SPR01 springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01S-98 - The version of SPR01S springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • May / June 2016: A800-AM14A - includes new optional "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A700-AM14-3 - removes the prior "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C04AL+0.5 - 0.5mm wider alloy suspension arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C01B-2.25 - 2.25mm carbon main plate (best suited for asphalt racing)
  • May / June 2016: A800-D2.2 - Dampers that support a thicker SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H3 - Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper
  • May / June 2016: A800-AT41-2 - Damper vane for the D2.2 damper designed to work w/ SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H - Stronger Shock Rod Guides for the D2.0 and D2.1 damper versions
  • May 2016: A800-AM19-4 - Currently used in the rear of a kit. With AM19-4 the top link effective length is 0,7mm shorter compare to AM19-2. Also with AM19-4 the flex of suspension is smaller ( similar to more stiffer arm and c-hub of normal cars). The screws on dampers are more accessible for adjustment.
  • January 2017 - SPRO2X - new for dampers and do not require a 98 degree bent spring.
  • January 2017 - New A800X and A800XA kits now available featuring 0.3mm longer front and rear wheelbase.
Kit Updates
  • May - Current: Kits now including DT10-2-1 bearing holders for increased side play and durability of the differential and spool.
  • May - July 2016: bearings within kits require oil before use
  • May / June 2016: C01B-AL (Khaki) Chassis with 0.5mm/side wider front arm mounts
  • May / June 2016: 2x ST17-1-S replace ST17 - See page 21 of manual
  • May / June 2016: Updated damper, D2.2, introduced
  • May / June 2016: Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper included with kits, A800-SPR02H3
  • Jan 2016: GD2 Output Axle (ST31-1) update to use blue foam (P46) instead of set screw (used on each side of Axle after assembly)


Setups
Major Race Wins
  • 2016 Reedy Race of Champions - Modified - Julian Wong
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 17.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 13.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2015/6 ETS Season 9 Round 3 - Xray Pro Stock Division - Tony Streit
  • 2015 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 International Indoor Championships (IIC) - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Halloween Classic at the Gate - 17.5 - Brad Johnson
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 -Matt Lyons
  • 2016 Stock Wars - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Hudy Indoor Championship - 17.5 - Brad Johnson

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Old 06-15-2019, 11:34 AM
  #4186  
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It’s for flex .... you remove the screw to add flex. Add screw to stiffen it. It’s not meant to add a lot of flex, it adds a very small amount.

Awesomatix USA: Know your hubs!


Originally Posted by glennhl
Could you elaborate on how that screw changes flex? Does the flex change if you tighten it more? Trying to figure this out, I can see that the flex changes fore to aft, but the load in that direction is extremely low.

EDIT: Looking at the design, I really think it is for outer wheel bearing clamping. Do you have a reference that says it's for flex?
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:07 PM
  #4187  
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Originally Posted by malkiy
It’s for flex .... you remove the screw to add flex. Add screw to stiffen it. It’s not meant to add a lot of flex, it adds a very small amount.

Awesomatix USA: Know your hubs!


Thank you so much for that link. However I think the hub has more flex but the M2 screw was just for bearing fit. Here's the quote: " This part had the the geometry of AM06S with additional flex and possibility of bearings fit adjustment via additional M2 screws."
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Old 06-15-2019, 02:24 PM
  #4188  
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Definitely there to ensure the bearings are snug, nothing to do with flex adjustment.
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Old 06-16-2019, 01:01 AM
  #4189  
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Originally Posted by cplus
Definitely there to ensure the bearings are snug, nothing to do with flex adjustment.
Our tests and practice of many drivers showed that these hubs without M2 screws installed provide more grip at low-mid traction conditions.
These hubs with tightened screws are better at high traction conditions.
A presence of M2 screws affects on the flex of hubs in some directions and on the caster flex mostly.
A presence of M2 screws changes also the level of free play of the wheel's axles that affects on the car's reaction and grip.
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Last edited by Oleg Babich; 06-16-2019 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:17 AM
  #4190  
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
Our tests and practice of many drivers showed that these hubs without M2 screws installed provide more grip at low-mid traction conditions.
These hubs with tightened screws are better at high traction conditions.
A presence of M2 screws affects on the flex of hubs in some directions and on the caster flex mostly.
A presence of M2 screws changes also the level of free play of the wheel's axles that affects on the car's reaction and grip.
well there you go! I definitely stand corrected.

was that the intention with the design or a coincidental finding?
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:38 AM
  #4191  
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Originally Posted by cplus
well there you go! I definitely stand corrected.
was that the intention with the design or a coincidental finding?
Initially it was designed for reducing of the free play of bearings but it was also clear that it will affect on the flex but without clear predicting of the degree of influence on car's grip properties.
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Old 06-16-2019, 11:47 AM
  #4192  
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Oleg, was my eyes decieving me or did I just see a result with 2 Awesomatix F1 cars in the A?? Any chance you can share any photos?
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Old 06-16-2019, 12:22 PM
  #4193  
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Originally Posted by chensleyrc1
Oleg, was my eyes decieving me or did I just see a result with 2 Awesomatix F1 cars in the A?? Any chance you can share any photos?
There is NO official Awesomatix F1 car by now.
We know some guys build themselfe F1 cars with Awesomatix parts arround the world, but we do NOT have an official car from our side.
RedRC entered in the F1 result of the European Championship "AWESOMATIX" as brand by Olivier and Simon which is not correct info.
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Old 06-17-2019, 06:11 AM
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Trying to determine if I have a defective PSS system. According to diagrams it looks like st69 slides into the threaded counter bored hole. My st69 will not slide into the threaded hole.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:53 AM
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I have a good friend that runs an A800 and he kept bugging me to buy and race an A800. So I caved and bought a used A800 with the mid motor conversion and long arms. I would like to offer my initial impressions.

I tore down and rebuilt the car purely to learn about the car. It is complex but I have to say it is a mechanical engineering marvel. I found building the damper spring units was difficult but after doing it a few times it is not bad. The biggest issue is the number of permutations on build configurations. And I’m not even talking about setup differences. Oh and how the heck am I supposed to add 100 grams to this car?

I built this car for USGT and I couldn’t find a setup sheet for a mid motor car. So I chose a mid motor setup for low traction asphalt. However I did soften the rear some since I like a car that has a pinned rear.

I ran the A800 for the first time last Saturday. I was impressed. It was very smooth and cornered great. The thing will turn!! It is definitely faster than my TC7.2. I did have someone nail me in the back while I was parked waiting for the first heat to start. That popped the big ball joint off at the upright. Easy fix. Then I hit a board in the sweeper during my third heat near the end when I went in too wide. It was a glancing blow that popped a c clip from a lower arm. Weird thing is I still won that heat but my last 4 laps were a second slower per lap. So my conclusions are that the car is a rocket and I’m going to love it but it is not as robust as the TC7.2. Shouldn’t be a problem because i normally run very clean.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
I have a good friend that runs an A800 and he kept bugging me to buy and race an A800. So I caved and bought a used A800 with the mid motor conversion and long arms. I would like to offer my initial impressions.

I tore down and rebuilt the car purely to learn about the car. It is complex but I have to say it is a mechanical engineering marvel. I found building the damper spring units was difficult but after doing it a few times it is not bad. The biggest issue is the number of permutations on build configurations. And I’m not even talking about setup differences. Oh and how the heck am I supposed to add 100 grams to this car?

I built this car for USGT and I couldn’t find a setup sheet for a mid motor car. So I chose a mid motor setup for low traction asphalt. However I did soften the rear some since I like a car that has a pinned rear.

I ran the A800 for the first time last Saturday. I was impressed. It was very smooth and cornered great. The thing will turn!! It is definitely faster than my TC7.2. I did have someone nail me in the back while I was parked waiting for the first heat to start. That popped the big ball joint off at the upright. Easy fix. Then I hit a board in the sweeper during my third heat near the end when I went in too wide. It was a glancing blow that popped a c clip from a lower arm. Weird thing is I still won that heat but my last 4 laps were a second slower per lap. So my conclusions are that the car is a rocket and I’m going to love it but it is not as robust as the TC7.2. Shouldn’t be a problem because i normally run very clean.
yea the MM needs a lare weight made (tho not currently ava) to go down center of car . We use tungston from EAM and stack it to make weight in tc , in usgt i would have to use the 4 corner locations or use a heavier battery/electronics setup .
as you do more tuning things you couldnt on the AE you will begin to really love the car .
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:52 AM
  #4197  
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I have the Xray T4 tungsten weight that goes under the center brace on the T4. I think it might be able to work down the center of either the front or rear of the MMCX motor mount. I'll check tonight. It is 30 grams.

CRC also has tungsten weight strips that will work for sure in the center. Comes in a two pack of 13g weights each.
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:42 PM
  #4198  
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Originally Posted by glennhl
I have a good friend that runs an A800 and he kept bugging me to buy and race an A800. So I caved and bought a used A800 with the mid motor conversion and long arms. I would like to offer my initial impressions.

I tore down and rebuilt the car purely to learn about the car. It is complex but I have to say it is a mechanical engineering marvel. I found building the damper spring units was difficult but after doing it a few times it is not bad. The biggest issue is the number of permutations on build configurations. And I’m not even talking about setup differences. Oh and how the heck am I supposed to add 100 grams to this car?

I built this car for USGT and I couldn’t find a setup sheet for a mid motor car. So I chose a mid motor setup for low traction asphalt. However I did soften the rear some since I like a car that has a pinned rear.

I ran the A800 for the first time last Saturday. I was impressed. It was very smooth and cornered great. The thing will turn!! It is definitely faster than my TC7.2. I did have someone nail me in the back while I was parked waiting for the first heat to start. That popped the big ball joint off at the upright. Easy fix. Then I hit a board in the sweeper during my third heat near the end when I went in too wide. It was a glancing blow that popped a c clip from a lower arm. Weird thing is I still won that heat but my last 4 laps were a second slower per lap. So my conclusions are that the car is a rocket and I’m going to love it but it is not as robust as the TC7.2. Shouldn’t be a problem because i normally run very clean.
Glenn,

Eventually you'll get all of the weaker parts out of the way and the car will be a tank, I haven't lost or replaced a clip orna p03 in the last 6 months or so, running in mod and having some good wrecks. The upper ball cup popping off may be due to inccorect sized balls, they should be 5mm I believe? I had one used car where some one replaced them with 4.8 or 4.9 and they popped off all the time. I'll take a look at it this weekend glad you're liking it! Also sounds like you need heavier electronics I have no problem meeting usgt weight with an 8k pack and the digital 3 speedo /v21 combo haha
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:13 AM
  #4199  
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I will definitely check the ball size, thank you. Is there a certain c clip orientation that helps the c clip stay on?

Edit: Actually I just remembered, the top arm didn’t pop off the ball, the P01 popped off the P02 part.

Last edited by glennhl; 06-21-2019 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 06-24-2019, 06:53 PM
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Anyone try the short lipo with BW52's outside on asphalt?
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