Check back in the thread for the photos. 100% sure I've done it right. You can fix the slop by either installing it "wrong" (using the further spaced holes, which means the cups don't sit flush on the flange) or by using around 0,4-0,6mm of 10mm shims.

HI GUys

Im having a problem with my 419, basically the last 2 meetings ive done, my front right wheel has become so hot, that its melted the plastic on the axle and caused the wheel to come off, and then in the final on my last meeting i changed to foams and basically it managed to get so hot that it melted the plastic of the wheel to the hub,

Ive assembled to instructions, but also the drive train is binding somewhere and isnt rolling freely with motor not in use,,

Any ideas,

Thanks

Hi Guys,
I'm building a 419 right now and have question:
What springs are used on the bigbore shocks?
Thank you

Std 25mm springs.

Tamiya 42278 (or many others)
Ride TC pro matched
HPI (Pro4) 75175
Yokomo
Muchmore/X-Gear G8 series

Odd one. You need to start a process of elimination starting with the bearings in the front knuckle.

Disconnect belts and go from there.

yeah i took the front corner apart yesterday at work (i work in a hobby shop) replaced one bearing cause the pin was sitting just inside the hub which isnt right i dont think, and it seems to be sitting better now,

im going to tear it apart tomorrow and see whats the deal cause its frustrating when the only other 419 was raced in the same class and had no issues,

thanks again

With the 'wrong' holes, my front spool sits perfectly and rotates smoothly. I guess I got lucky in that regard but if others are experiencing an issue then Tamiya should at least include some optional shims.

By the way, can the spur gear be changed without having to remove the diffs from there bulkheads? I can't seem to remove the spur assembly because of the belts restricting it

Yes, when you run the cups offset it gives an extra 0,4mm exactly - run them both in the outer holes and it is too tight (for mine). however, by doing this the pin is doing more than just locating/retaining. which is not ideal. The cup should sit against the flange.

Yes, remove the front belt. Slide it off the soool and then undo the two lay shaft screws and it comes out (by sliding backwards.

The belt doesn't slide off the front spool on my car, belt tension seems normal. But at least now I only have to remove one diff (the front)

Sorry, not really "slide" you sorta need to "roll" it off.

Capricorn used that style first on an EP TC... so not like Xray was innovative there!
The current bar mounts are fine IMO, just need to take your time when setting up (as with any sway bar). Get them set the same side to side and dropping freely (which is a 5min job during the build) and there are set and shouldn't ever need adjustment. The only bit that could need improving is the plastic moulding, so that it keys in vertically too the bulkheads... but as it should never need to come off, it's not a major issue. And if I'm switching bars, I make sure to set them up anyway, as normally there is some small difference in the behavior, so the drop links need resetting.

Yawn.

The motor mount is one of the innovate bits in the kit to be frank... it's certainly a damn site better than a single sided mount as on other brands, IMO. No chance of the post moving (unless a screw comes out), and then there are the flex options not present on other cars (baring the VBC, but that has the screws the wrong way round so the flex point moves forward when you go to single screws).

C-hubs... yes, they could do with being stronger. I did three in one day on (very) high grip carpet track with a mod. Two were legimate screw ups by myself, but one was a gentle board tap (although that was the oldest hub, so could have been weakened). But I haven't broken a single part on the car up to that point, exclusively running mod on various sized outdoor tracks. So if you breaking arms and other bits... you have more problems than the car!

Don't drill... sharp blade and knife the top off. It's cleaner and doesn't leave swarf inside. But then you should know that as you know everything already..

What ride heights are you running??!?! I can quite easily get to 7mm+ without any issues. That's setting the shocks to a 12mm length (top balljoint to bottom of shock, exposed shaft length).

Yawn again

http://kentech.blogs.se/2015/04/15/s...ases-20237635/

Tamiya has made their own aluminium chassis plate, will be shown shizuoka this year

Would be based on what Rheinard used to win at Rnd2 ETS - good for high grip/carpet!

Looking to only buying 1 brand of diff and shock oil for consistency. I was considering muchmore because it seems to be on most set up sheets however, arrowmax is cheaper and can be purchased locally. I know this sounds a bit silly but is there any real advantage to choose muchmore?

Consistent and yes, on setup sheets as you say so if you trying to replicate it makes it easy. It's also clear and clean - doesn't stink, stain or make a mess like some other do (ala yokomo or TRF gear diff oil)

Not 100% sure if MM oil is CST or not. Doesn't say on the bottle from memory.

I just stocked up on about $100 worth from mushroom ages ago (probably less actually) of common weights for diff and shock oil - won't be running out in a hurry and need to replace. Way cheaper than anything local, sadly. At the time anyway.