niznai

I'll keep the pie to myself, thank you very much.

Not interested in your let's play possum games.

Marcika

Hi,

Where can i read/learn more about impact of front arm settings?
Let's say difference between C-C block setting vs C-B setting with shim to have same wheelbase. Toe both case 1 degree.
I would like to understand differences (advantage, disadvanage), if any.

Thanks,
Marton

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Start here : http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ckSettings.pdf

And read the Hudy Set Up book.

Marcika

Thx, i have read it already! Anything more advise/experience in my example (C-C vs C-B same wheelbase with wheel spacer)?

Qatmix

Check out XXX main book by Martin Crisp. It's excellent, also the Xray manuals have a lot of info on basic set-up and they are free to download.

regarding the 419. I'm really enjoying racing mine. The corner speed is still catching me out. The main area I need to address is that the car is rolling quite a lot when I hit some sharp S curves (I race on a very technical small track at my local club) I think I might actually try a little front sweep (never really played with it) and move out the shocks one hole on the front.

I also have 0.5 under the rear blocks (not at the front) It was great like this on my 418 but I wonder if the roll centre's might be a little too different from front to rear to make the car feel unsettled when transitioning from left to right on the brakes...

Just thinking aloud, I'm sure when I read this back I will understand what area to attack first.

Marcika

Thx, i have hudy set up book which i use a lot . Will this xxx book give more info about settings? I am thinking to buy it. Need to learn, car works perfectly despite i miss order of settings and how to read the car to become quicker. Unfortunately i have limited knowledge. What to change first....
Thanks

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

You should post your setup sheet and give us an idea of what your running.

niznai

The XXX book isn't very helpful. It mainly goes on about weight shifting (which is correct as a fundamental principle) but doesn't go into as much detail as the Hudy books. The Hudy books on the other hand don't explain why you need to do this that or the other, so a combination of the two sources is best. Either way, as a principle remember the weight shift is the core, and take it from there. All you're doing with tuning is make sure you shift the right amount where it's needed under every possible circumstance.

PS. I think I downloaded my copy of the XXX book from the interwebs many moons ago. Might still float about if you're lucky.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

This is the latest stuff from Martin Crisp.

http://www.learnsetup.com

XXXMain is 10yrs old now after all....

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

This thread provides some good information.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...s-effects.html

Generally, straight arm will give more initial steering, but loose out a bit mid-exit. Sweep will loose a little initial, but gain in mid-exit.
Bare in mind sweep can also be added by making the front wider (say D/C) or narrower (C/B) over the kit C/C... narrower tends to make the car a little more aggresive, wider more stable. So narrower with C/B tends to help compensate for the loss of initial vs the straight arm.

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Yes, 6deg hubs with 0.5 anti-dive will give castor closer to 5°. Hence will make it more stable and docile, but helps to increase mid-exit. Actually 4° with 0.5 kick up (shim under FF block) would be similar effect in terms of castor, but with a different feel due to the kick up effectively softening the front.

Sep B's are the go for the front yes.
And your correct that B's on the rear will give 2°... but... I'd worry it would make the rear end too wide, and moving the pin out also affects the shock position (as the lower position moves further out from the centreline relative to the top position).
I would look at going A/E for the rear blocks if you can find some Sep A's, but I haven't seen any available yet. That would give same width as kit X/F, but with 2° of angle instead
The other alternative is X/D.. but that has the reverse effect to B/F (2° but narrower). Although, it's worth noting that X/D would be the same width as the popular XA/E combination.

Might be worth trying B/F and X/D out though, see which you prefer

cplus

iTrader: (11)

^ yup, no A's and no D's available (as of yet!)

Odd they skipped A in the mix of XB, XA, X, ?, B, C!

iasca20

iTrader: (25)

Correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that The 54172 split blocks were either an A or XA depending on how it was installed on the car.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radi...s-mounts-54172

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

The 419 split blocks are different! They now use a locating pin on one side so they are no longer interchangeable! You stand corrected.
Just my 2$

Marcika

Hi All,

Thanks for comments help.

See below link my set up as well as the track. Car was very good, I missed a little bit of being "quicker". Best time was around 13mp/lap, I could make 13.2. I know thisgap can be also in my hand :-) but if I can make it from car would be great :-)! Motor screws in bottom are 1-1 center, no other screws missed or whatever, comes with KIT. C hub is shimmed by 0.2mm.

Set up:
https://plus.google.com/photos/11620...CPTwmd-RrpOBWw

What I wanted to try but didnt have time either to have harder stabilizer set both front and rear and/or lower roll center.

Thanks for your feedback.
Marton