Could you post a pic? Having trouble visualizing the problem. While it may be close, it shouldn't be so bad that it cuts the tire

Here is the first body thats 195 mm. If I raise the body one hole, the wheels will clear as camber increases on compression.. but the lowest position it will rub.

This is the second 195 mm body unpainted.. you can see how close the front wheels are to the wheel arches

That is a bit close, but I wouldnt worry about it. The pic you have of the wheel turned under the fender, won't be an issue. The direction you have the wheel turned is the inside wheel of a turn. The wheel will extend away from the body during cornering. The outside tire might touch, but still should be a performance issue. Worst case, you run some paint off the inside of the fender.

I never ran usgt rules so I'm not familiar with treaded tires, but all cars I've seen have here so far SEEMS to have the tire tread on backwards if compared to real tires. Any reason for that?

No real reason..

I've ran them in both directions and haven't noticed a difference lol.

What's your guys thoughts on yoKS springs . Pink front blue rear for grey carpet?

Hi,

It depends on. I would start blue all around to see how car handles with equal springs. Then sure try pink in front. Traction & tire preparation is also important.
I switch to short springs (smj, x-ray) which imo works better in grey carpet than long one.(25mm)

Marton

Spur gears??......
 

What brand of spur gear do you all use??... I was looking at the ARC gears... I'm running 17.5 TC on a 110"X60" indoor carpet track...... What's the largest size I should have?..... And what do you recommend in rollout??.... Thanks..... Just loading up......

Im running axon spurs on my car. Very good fit and pretty strong.

Also i am currently running yoke pink/blue combo and works very well on grey and black carpet but will trying xray short springs soon

Hi Guys,

Saturday is over and we had on road racing again in Budapest, with excellent result for TRF: TQ&Win again :-).
Track was the same as 2 weeks ago, however I wanted to test following:
- 2.5 degree rear (X-E)
- SMJ progressive springs

The car was great, starting with 16.2 mp as best lap. I moved roll center shims back to 3 mm (from 2.5), which turned better, car was more constant. This time I used LTCR body. Then I switched to LTC 2.0 which gave more steering and direct move, best lap achived 16.1.
I had TQ with 16.058 mp as best lap during qualifying, P2 was just ~0.15 mp slower on best, overall 3 mp difference within 5 minute race.
Average lap times during qualifying was around 16.2-16.3. First race was very similar to qualifying, since I didn't change anything just checked tires, since they became "worn", so added glue when needed. Front tires were glued to avoid traction roll.

For the 2nd race I changed tire preparation which gave a big improvement in terms of handling & being constant for 5 minutes, best lap didn't change but average lap times improved to 16.1-16.2. I was struggling a bit in first race since on the 1-6 laps I was not quick enough....

For the 3rd race (I already won so I took it as testing) I wanted to try screws in bulk head and center weight screws to make chassis less flex, since traction was getting high. So all 3 screws were installed :-) + 2nd screw installed in center weight. The car was amazing, average lap time improved to 16.0, best to 15.96 with a big won.

All of 3 races were safe, won by 3-5mp from 2nd. There was no battle at all :-) which I missed a bit :-(!

Comparing vs previous race (2weeks ago), car improved approx 0.2mp on best lap, on average 0.3mp, overall 3-4mp on 5 minute race.

Attached pic about track and final setup (3rd race).

The car is fantastic, I love it :-)!
Marton

Great result! Thanks for sharing your set-up. I assume you measure your downstops to the middle of the suspension pin? or are you running hardly any droop?

I have been playing with a little rear anti-dive. Seems to work well.

thanks :-)!

I measure downstop under the suspension arm with Hudy Chassis Droop Gauge. So the arm lays on the downstop setup tool where I can read the setting from. (I use Hudy All in one set up system, which includes everything) Front susp. arms are measured same way but on the side, since there is the "hole" in the middle.
Upward movement of the car is max 1/1.5mm-2/2.5mm (Front-reat) on carpet which I usually set.

Hi guys,

Two questions:

1. Have you tested montech nazda2 or is200 body on trf? If so, any experience?

2. The rcracer is creating ;) for us
http://www.thercracer.com/2016/11/thercracer-tamiya-trf419x-floating.html?m=0
Any feedback on the options currently available for 419x?
@rcracer: do you expect some new release in coming weeks? I would like to try servo horn for sure but i would order in one shot if possible.
Curious on spacer under bulkhead, what does it bring...
http://fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/tamiya/trf419x.html

Thanks
Marton

I have tried the Nazda2 although I did run the Nazda4 and liked it a lot. Although I have been just running the Blitz GSF recently.

As to the parts I have been working on.

There is the upper floating mount. This version is a nice simple bolt on. I have a version I am tweaking that moves the arms to change the way in which the car handles on black carpet.

There is also a chassis stiffener. This is a solid 3mm carbon bar. Again changes the flex and allows you to get more speed and control around the corner.

There are just some 1mm outer bulkhead spacers, these are just a nice tuning aid that compliment the kit 0.5mm ones. For those that want shorter links. (Make the car more reactive)

The other one is the lower bulkhead spacers. These raise the diffs and give you a lot more overall grip on carpet... hopefully. Articles on all of these soon.

There are some other bits in the pipeline but they will need me to have some more free time.. which I do not really have at the moment.