I just took off the 1F block and checked for straightness and it seems Not Bent. So it shifted bad, I loosened also this left side X Separate Sus Mount light pushed it back and retightened everything and the play is normal considering I never put in the 0.5mm shims after the 1mm one behind the arms.

I am using the HPI Pink for Front and Silver for Rear springs that many setup sheets have shown to use. I got the whole 7 pack of pairs of springs from HPI.

Here is my carpet setup for the Main on Sunday which was a disaster. It's like the car has too much exit steering and turns into a knife in the carpet and is very inconsistent mid corner. The car is like shifty and I have to wait to settle the car to get seriously going again. I am 0.9 seconds off the pace per lap on 8 to 9 second lap track.

The changes for the main as everyone at the track has opinions what to change, I laydown the shock top position both front and rear from Pos 3 to 1 and took out any spacers for inside camber links for roll center change, just the front needed to take out the 1mm ones. Figured screw it all at the same time as the car was terrible all through qualifying rounds.


So any suggestions would be good as nobody in my track is on the 419 platform, mostly T4 Xrays and Clone Xrays with some older Tamiyas and Yokomos occasionally.

Try putting in 2mm spacers back in the front inner upper camber links for a start. Less in the front will make it darty for steering.

Hi, check your droop and the shock position.
Also check your shims in front and rear with 1mm @the upper bulkhead. Diff with higher oil for more steering. Camber front 1,5 or 2 degree. Remove the shims under the Blocks.
HPI Silver all around or Yokomo Pink Front and Rear blue. I think Yokomo is the best choice for carpet.

Otherwise you can check @petitrc some setups:
(http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/tam...iyaTRF419.html)

Let us know

@Qatmix

Thank you
I will do that.

No problem

I am just curious is Yokomo springs just much better than anything else?
I have 2 sets of spec r springs, ranging from 3.2 to 1.3,
What I did was look up the yokomo blue and pink spring rate and use the close rate spec r springs in my car.
But if yokomo springs is so much better, then I will get those too.

Yeah on the springs I felt the HPI ones had a good range for the 7 pairs set. Yokomo seems to have a softer range or in between rates.

I used this webpage to help see what I was getting in HPI and also to see the Yokomo springs:

http://teamyokomo.blogspot.ca/2009/0...tes-chart.html

I've noticed that people are usually very prompt to advise laying down the shocks either rear or front + rear, almost regardless of what tentative diagnosis I propose when asked what's wrong. Over the years I've been advised this countless times (and of course I ask guys much faster and simply better than me). Yet I can't think of a single instance where this particular move has actually helped me, neither in terms of ease of driving nor in terms of pure pace. For most people it seems like common knowledge that if your car sucks, it's always a safe move to lay the shocks down all the way, you're pretty much guaranteed to see an improvement.

If had to try describe how I feel the change, I would say that the car sucks just like before, only more numb and unpredictable. Sorry, probably not a terribly helpful contribution, I just find that puzzling...

And just to double check, the droop setting on the setups sheet is from the center of the outer hinge pins on the end of the suspension arms and not the bottom of the arms. Correct?

I bent 2 of these yesterday.

Is there a cheaper or stronger alternative for tamiya ones?
These aren't cheap.. I am surprisingly they were bent that easily.
Once they are bent, are there any proven ways to straighten it? I just think it was a waste to throw them away,

That's a fair effort. The TRF dcjs are some of the strongest and best designs.

How were they assembled?

Which way were the c clips facing? They should be CCW and both the same.

Hey guys,
I'm wanting to narrow the rear track by 1mm for the tight corners but I can't figure out which blocks I need to use to achieve this. I currently have X inners and an F outer block. I want to maintain the 3.0 degrees toe but narrow the track by 1mm. Can anyone help me out with which blocks I would need to do to achieve this? Any help much appreciated.

Cheers
Simon

XB-D. You will still have 3 degrees or XA-E

Awesome! Thank you very much!