Apologies, I have the 419XR as well. The test was done on XR

Will try it this afternoon and let you know
Just fitted the TA-08 Pro parts on my 419XR.
With the correct bearings and some shimming it will fit perfectly

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...cb3eaf56ea.jpg

Brilliant, can you let me know the bearings you required? If I can fit the 08 pro parts that will be fine, anything will be better than my chewed up 419 pulleys!

With the bearings provided in the TRF 420 kit.
info and assembly see, https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/42345.pdf

Brill.

So I need the bearings from a 420 centre pulley, and the pulleys from a ta08 pro?

Are the same bearings. TA-08 Pro has the same pulley system, only in plastic,. The pulleys from the TRF 420 can be used as a hopup. The same pulley (one) is also used in the TA-07 MSX.

950 Flanged Tamiya - 42367
850 Tamiya - 42368
pulley Tamiya - 42351
other parts Tamiya - 51645

I used the TA-08 parts because they where available without having to take apart any car. I referenced the TRF 420 manual because the assembly is like the 419 XR.

Brilliant thanks
So then all those parts will then fit onto the 419xr centre shaft?

Can I use the Protek 160T in the 419X? I'm look at the servo size recommendations in the manual and the 160T is a lot smaller.

Yes, any low profile servo should work

I'm undecided

- suspension system 54886 (trf 420).

or

- xray front components (302253(x2), 302168(x2), 302363, 302364, 307521, 302291).

What do you think is the best option?

The best technical option in order to reduce clearances and increase reliability

especially in the front

the 54886 parts robust. Particularly the chubs. I don't see a need for xray parts.

Ran my 419XR last week in USGT. 10 of us total, 5 experts. I’m ranked at the bottom of the 5 experts 😉. I finished 3rd not because I was faster, but because I didn’t break 🤣. Jokes aside, in the final main I worked out some of the cobwebs and actually posted some crazy fast laps.

At home I did a minor tear down of back end and discovered a few culprits. First, my XR top deck was cracked / delaminated right at the fork, both sides.

Second was this sob


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...6ccd95980.jpeg

Hardly noticeable while driving given the laps I was posting, but makes you wonder what if

I remember checking those pins frequently when I raced my XR, all those spacers gives the arm a lot of leverage over the pins. On the 420 they almost removed them.

That would cause inconsistencies there. I'm gonna check my ta07 pins. I've had some handling issues and checked everything but the pins.

Interesting.. I’m running the 420 arms.. and I believe the 420 shaft are slightly longer?

If you check the manual, the 419XR uses much more spacers than the 420. Don't remember exactly but I think on the 420 there's only 1.5mm total of spacers.

Edit: 4.3mm on XR (46mm pins) vs 1.5mm on 420 (43mm pins) for the rear arms

Got it! So I had it backwards, 3mm less in spacers.

I'm searching for a 419XR chassis plate if anyone is parting with one.

My son inherited my XR and every race he’s breaking the front swing shaft protector. When I had the car, I used the Xray orange ones and they last me a while. Not for him though.

Any suggestions?

Got a pic of the spool outdrives you are using?

The original kit outdrives and spool


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4f2f12093.jpeg

I'm a bit confused. The original spool outdrives on the XR are meant to just be steel on steel and don't use blades

You're right about that per manual, it the picture doesn’t look like blade type. My kit was a X converted to XR. Somewhere along the line I must have changed to blade type, not sure from where.

They’re the TA06 steel light weight ones!

So they use the thinner type blades (same as the rears right? like the TRF418) Not the new thicker front ones like on the TRF420 spool.

If it is the thinner type (same as rear blades), I got some more durable blades I can send you. Forgot the brand but it lasted in my TRF418 mod car. Only downside is they are pink color :D

Thanks Dan. I sent you a text message..

I also tried suggestion of Qatmix .. filing down the edges of the out drives. They’re a bit sharp, so I rounded them with a dremel diamond bit. Should help them last longer.

Buy the proper original 419 steel outdrives as per that manual image above.

It's so much more reliable than the blade setup.

I've converted my evo 8 and my mates 420 back to the original 419 outdrives, and we never ever have driveshaft issues anymore.

we’ll see how Qatmix suggestion works this weekend. If there is wear on the blades, then I will switch back to the original kit setup

The issue was having was they were breaking where the pin goes through on the end of the dogbone, not the actual blade wearing where it goes into the outdrive. So they could look perfectly fine but still end up ruining a race.

Honestly, the original 419 setup is the most reliable and maintenance free.

I also tried the lightweight spool mod (found on the rc racer) which worked very well on my 419, using 417 plastic outdrives and the metal collar which goes around. This was good, but when the outdrives wear it does cause a bit of friction with the in our movement of the shaft

I had read the length of the pins are the main issue and the newer dog shafts have longer pins.

Keeping it simple is usually the best solution!

Alternatively the TRF420 spool and outdrives should be a drop-in fit. The front blades on those are a little thicker. They can still break but a lot more durable than the thinner blades of before.

I have them but decided against, while my son is doing well and hanging in there with the big lads.. he has moments where he gets frustrated and that’s when things start being and popping 😉

Been trying to find replacement upper arms mounts, seems they’re discontinued


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ae55b9ca9.jpeg