^im trying the shortened wheelbase both you and the TRF guys have been running - if you've got eagle eyes you'll notice the silver spacers

I expect the track will be super high grip - which will be a new experience for me.....!

But how did you go with the cone test??

I'm gonna start with close to kit - Ed knows I'm a laggard

Got hold of a set of X-Gear pinks and will bring those with me. Hopefully will get some good track time before qualifying on Saturday.

Phil.

Ah sweet, another 419 racing! Are you in 13.5?

I'll be the dick in a sling due to a shagged shoulder.

Yes, I'll be the vacant-looking person in the D-Main

New experience for me.
The first time since I drive Tamiya, I had to change the belt.

I do not know why. I think the belt is too close to the top deck and pinion.

Guys...need some help here. I was unfortunate last weekends to bump my car into a side board and flipped over on to the other side. The 419 was quite tough except for a broken suspension mounting ball nut on the right front arm.

My question is :-

1. Is there a way to take out the rest of the ball nut thread that has been broken off and right now is stuck inside the front arm. If there is, I won't need to replace the whole arm. Wouldn't want to waste a good front arm now.

2. Any better and reliable replacement for the alu ball nut? It seems that it is quite soft so any hard knock would break it and it is a hassle to work with since its not a hex drive nut. I saw on Simmi car that he is using something else as a replacement to the stock one.

Thanks in advance !

Dude, those are rubbish, you shouldn't have used it in the first place.

Drill a hole 1mm diameter in the leftover screw in the arm and pray to god it goes in dead straight. To achieve this you need either a bench drill or if you only have a hand drill a steady hand, eagle eyes, elephant patience and variable speed. Use the lowest setting, of course. If you have one of those little electric screwdrivers even better. Try to file the broken end flat and use centre punch to give you a chance to drill straight.

If you manage to pull this one off, move up to a 1.5mm drill and repeat. If you are dead centred, you can go up to 2.5mm and by then the screw is all eaten up. Use a 3mm tap to clear out the last bits. If things go pear shaped at drilling stage, stop at 1.5mm and find yourself some 2mm hard steel (an old drill bit is good, and old 2mm tap even better). Grind three flat sides that meet at a very sharp point. The sides need to meet at razor sharp edges otherwise the trick doesn't work. Now stick this tool in the drilled out screw and push it to bite hard in the aluminium meat. Grab with pliers or vise grips and unscrew the offending screw.

And switch to fluorine coated ballnuts like those at the top of the shocks and 3mm inbus (allen) rods, dude.

Good luck.

PS. Take this as a wake up call and get rid of every aluminium screw on your car, dude.

Yeah, I think it was these that I ran on the tops and bottoms of my Tamiya shocks. I think you just need to add 3x8 or 10mm (?) long allen screws/studs into the arms.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4393

Glue a small allen key to it, making sure the glue doesn't touch the the plastic. When the glue is dry you can just turn the key and remove the screw.

I've done it a couple of times and it's easier than drilling.

Arms are stupid cheap, just buy a new pair.

Murphy's law says you will spend 3hrs to get the remnants of that thread out and then bust the arm on the next run anyway

A technique I've read about but never tried :

-drill the broken screw at 1,5mm over 2-3mm length.
-Then insert a LEFT HAND M2 tap, and at some point the whole thing should start unscrewing itself.

I guess you could find such a tap on Ebay, it will come in handy for other broken screws/ stripped screw heads. Now until it arrives... in 3 weeks... you should probably buy new arms ^^

What a bone head I am! While rebuilding the diff, I decided to throw everything into a mason jar with denatured alcohol and let is sit overnight. Now my diff case has swollen.. Can't get the bearings back on lol.... Ahhh Beavus, you're a %#^€ŁĄ&$

Hi guys,

Does anyone have experience with samix alu chassis for 419? Thinking to buy for carpet season, if it works

Thanks

I drove the Samix aluminum chassis last Carpet season and I was faster with the Main chassis.
Purchase you prefer the 42290 Carbon Chassis with 2mm thick. Ideal for carpet tracks or low grip tracks.

I think it shows only a difference in Modified but not in stock.